Cummins

[Russell]

As much as I love my F150 it is really under powered for towing. Jennifer really wanted an extended cab truck. So last weekend we picked up a 1998 Cummins 4x4 auto extended cab long bed. It needs a good cleaning a few little things, and a few big things (tires). Right now it has a leveling kit (front up) about 34" tires on after market 17x10" wheels. I am hoping to lower it back to stock in the front and maybe take a couple inches out of the back to bring it back level. I am going to look a set of dodge wheels with 265-75-16

[Russell]

I picked up the 2001 dodge 2500 wheels last night and they don't fit on the truck, so back to craigslist.


thread about wheels not fitting

http://www.bangshift.com/forum/showthread.php/36665-*-amp-dodge?p=648542#post648542

[Russell]

[milner351]

Dan Stokes truck is a 4x2 - he had it lowered and it looks and functions great (lower loading height - allot easier to load Walt's bike in the back without ramps) and should deliver better MPG due to better aero.

I'm not sure what the front lowering involved but the rear appeared to be a pretty straight forward leaf spring mount swap on the frame, same springs.

Your brakes shocks springs steering and suspension in general will thank you for returning to stock tire size (and weight) you'll get better FE as well with the narrower tires. The size you are shopping for is a stock size for lots of HD pick ups - so you should have a lot of tires to choose from.

[Russell]

I think this truck came with 245-75-16 so the ones I picked up were up one, not really a big deal except for the wheels not fitting.

[JOES66FURY]

oh man, I would love to have that, great trucks really...never ever had major issues with mine. transmissinos are not a mojor issue in the diesels but see the other thread for steering stuff...I would highly suggest not running the 10" wide rims, find something in the 8" the 10"s will tear up the front end parts esp wheel bearings and ball joints.

[Russell]

Yeah, the steering can be a big issue. Best thing to do is put the front on jack stands and check out everything, if the track bar is bad that is what centers the 4 link and you will be all over the road.. The ball joints are not great and fail pretty often especially if there are bigger tires. I rebuilt the whole front of mine, balls, tie rods, track bar, drag link...was around 600 bucks and is well worth the investment and everything is super easy to do...also, the wheel bearings (if 4X4) are sealed and have the anti-lock pick up in them..the best price was at carquest but can be picked up off rock auto for a fair price.

this is your track bar (curved)


this is your drag link



2 biggest culprits to dodge steering issues

Joe, going to try to move the discussion to this thread. Having two will make my head hurt. It was meet to just be a rant!

I need to get under there and take some pictures then you can tell me what kind of mess I have. It looks like the track bar is mounted on a drop bracket that is bolted and welded on. It looks like its going to take some work to lower it.

[JOES66FURY]

track bar attaches to the right side axle jsut behind the stering stabilizer, and bolts in place up on the drivers side frame rail. It is a simple fix, If the truck has a lift it is possible the track bar has been dropped...post up some pics and we will figure out whats up. Like I siad the track bar is always a problem for every dodge guy out there. if you get a wobble or if it feels like it is drifiting then that is most likely your culprit. With some patience and a few bucks you can get it nice and tight and it will last a long time unless your running a wide tall tire, they seem to not like the wide tires much, anyone I know running a more narrow tire has not had as many front end issues...but even with stock sized rims/tires they will/do develop sterring issues...

[Russell]

Current tires are 315-70-17 on 17x10" they stick out past the fenders

[milner351]

That's the size that was on my F350 when we drove it home from Florida - shortly after the engine rebuild - I put 265 back on it and it's way way way better.

[JOES66FURY]

Current tires are 315-70-17 one 17x10" they stick out past the fenders

I ran an 35" tire on 16X10's...looked great but man they really get into the ruts in the road and pull you all over especially with worn front end parts. I highly recomend an 8" rim, a tall tire isnt as big an issue as the width...thats been my experience with these trucks others may say differently.

I have had 3 of them, one for over 12 years. I know these things pretty well...all mine were gas/magnum engines tho, I do know that with the diesels lifter and injector pumps are big issues...and are not cheap.

[Beagle]

mine has 285-75x16, a 245 seems small? E rated, pumped up to 80 pounds or so... kidney belt should be included.

[Russell]

any idea if these will work? they are over 2 hours away....

http://eastnc.craigslist.org/pts/3031835587.html

[milner351]

If your truck is still 8x6.5" bolt pattern the lugs will line up - what I'm not sure about is the center hole

[JOES66FURY]

Current tires are 315-70-17 on 17x10" they stick out past the fenders

245 is tiny, I wouldnt suggets going with them esp f you ever plan on going off pavement. A 285 will do you right I think, the cummings wont care too awful much about FE in regards to tire size. you can keep the 315's on the 10's too just make sure the front end is tight, I ran 315's for 80K or more, towed with them...never a problem other than a rebuild at some point and even with stockers youre gonna have to do it at some point. Keep in mind I was rough on my truck, lots of off road time, lots of pulling/towing...it was abused. The down side is cost but a set of Toyo A/T or BFG A/T's will last 50K or better if take care of...I got 60K from my Toyo's before the BFG's, 20K onthe BFG's and they still looked new.