62 Falcon - $5k challenge, how will it rise from the ranger's ashes?

[STINEY]

That would be a cool deal on the welds - I've always liked the look of them.

Exactly WHY do the OEMs put all those holes and plugs in floors anyways? I've never seen them used for anything, and the plugs loosen and transfer moisture, cause rust, etc. Seems I remember hearing a reason for them once, but it escapes me now.

(that floor looks tons better now. Good start John!)

[milner351]

I think in the mustang, the rear holes are for access to the seat bolts, the oval shaped hole is probably for holding the unibody in place on the assembly jig or some such thing.

[Russell]

That would be a cool deal on the welds - I've always liked the look of them.

Exactly WHY do the OEMs put all those holes and plugs in floors anyways? I've never seen them used for anything, and the plugs loosen and transfer moisture, cause rust, etc. Seems I remember hearing a reason for them once, but it escapes me now.

(that floor looks tons better now. Good start John!)

I thought it was to let the water out when you for get to roll up the windows durring a hurricane

[SuperBuickGuy]

they're there to allow quick water pressure equalization when you drive your car into a lake or large body of water. The plugs pop inward allowing water to quickly fill the cabin thus giving the occupants a chance to get out quicker.... it's a safety thing

[milner351]

So if I weld them shut - it should float? ;-)

[SuperBuickGuy]

I dunno about that, but I've sure seen a lot of people pushing fords into lakes and large bodies of water.... so I know the testing is complete.

[pintoboy77]

So if I weld them shut - it should float? ;-)

Why would you want to float when this thing is going to fly?

[STINEY]

So if I weld them shut - it should float? ;-)

You keep messing with it John and you'll end up voiding the warranty......... just sayin'....

[TheSilverBuick]

Why would you want to float when this thing is going to fly?

He has a lake house, and you never know when the boat might be broken

[milner351]

I needed a laugh this morning - thanks guys!

I hope we don't test it's level of flotation on drag week - but with the stories I've heard of past years - we just might!

Rhonda's out of town again most of this week - so - not much progress on the car. If I get a few things lined up tonight I may be able to drop the crankshafts off at the grinder / balancer tomorrow. I did get the heads back from the machine shop - so they are ready to bolt on if I don't decide I need to have them milled to make up some compression ratio...

[milner351]

Ya'll may already know this - but it was new to me - Oreilley's has 25 foot rolls of 3/8" tubing with the protective coating - and it's $1 per foot...

http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/de...2137&ppt=C0333

[SuperBuickGuy]

As long as it's green - that'd be cool (heh heh)

[milner351]

Another Friday after work stop at vanburen steel.

I should have realized they can't bend a U shape with equal length legs for the front leaf spring mounts, so, I had them bend the 90 and shear the other side - I will weld together the chanel for each side, then cut out the inside of the frame rail, and use the bolt hole in the existing leaf spring mount to locate the new mount, then weld the frame back around it, then add reinforcement to the rocker.

I also picked up some 3x1.5 rectangular tubing that is the same profile as the stock frame rail, along with some round tube that's about the same ID as the shackle hanger in the frame - with that stuff I should be able to build the new frame parallel to the old frame to hang the rear of the spring in it's new location.

I found out they stock DOM tubing as well - so they will have what I need when it's time to build the caltrac bars.

Now to find the time and energy to giterdun!

[pintoboy77]

Sounds like you've got a good plan when you get the time to do it.Good Luck and post pics.

[milner351]

Today's schedule was not good for shop time - so I spent a little time on the engine in the home garage.

Ever wondered if you could remove the crank with out removing the pistons and rods first? Well I answered that question of mine today at least for a SBF.



The mains are worse than the rods, but none are what I'd call re usable. Remember folks - this is from a couple starts with one oil galley plug missing - probably no more than 10 minutes of no load run time - and that's all it took, keep in mind this wasn't no oil pressure it was low, 25 psi cold instead of 60 when I found the problem and replaced the plug. Moral of the story - never get in a hurry assembling an engine.


The crank looks like it will polish out and require no more than +.001 bearings.... that's what I'm hoping for.


Pay no attention to the dates on the photo's - my wife apparently didn't set the date on the camera.

I spent some time with a sanding roll polishing the ID of the balancer that Dave and I had to hammer onto the crank before the balancer bolt would even start to thread. After several minutes of "honing" with the drill and red scotchbrite like roll - I've managed to get the balancer to slide onto the crank by hand.

I will take the balancer, flexplate, crank, bolts, and one piston/rod assembly to the crankshaft place next week - I'll bring a couple of spare cranks too to see which one will clean up best for use in Matt's 77 F150 engine.