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I haven't tried yet, but if I can get the two wire clamps to loop one wire around the snorkel and one wire around the hose, then the adapter will be captured in place and everything retained in place by the clamp. The fender side just needs a decent clamping force. That could be dimpled if required.
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Escaped on a technicality. -
I made a "bead roller" out of a set of cheap crimps. So far it I have only had a coupler on the (round) charge pipes pop off once. I am using aluminum it might work on tin sheet metal exhaust tubing might too thick I can try it.
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I've done the same with the turbo cold side piping. That works well for silicone hoses, but doesn't do much for the corrugated ducting. My dual wire clamps work great on the round fender adapter, but didn't hold up on the air lid side. I tried making new snorkel sleeves that would be more rigid, but it didn't work out. My next idea is to get a bigger diameter duct. I am currently trying 3", but based on some measurements, I believe a 3.5" hose would slip over the snorkel lip, then I would just have to use a rubber sleeve or reducer on the fender end to go from 3.5" to 3" tubing.
On the math side, the 1,000 cfm throttle body has a 9.64 sq. inches of cross sectional area, and the two 3" fender ports have 14.14 sq. inches of cross sectional area. So theoretically should have no actual impact on available air flow to the engine. Theoretically.... Can always flip the lid at the track!
This "dual snorkel" test I believe had more restrictive snorkels than the one I am using.
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