Crane points converson

[Matt Cramer]

A '99 distributor may be tiny, but the trouble is, it's designed to work with a crank fired ignition. Doesn't have the right sort of pick up for working as a standalone distributor.

What sort of truck is this?

[squirrel]

There was no mechanical/vacuum advance starting some time in the 1980s depending on what model it was....so keep that in mind when thinking about using a modern distributor.

[Russell]

Matt, my understanding is this going in Steve's 66 C10 that main use will be hauling building materials and waste for his residential construction business. I would guess it could be used for road trips (ie Ohio), general Hot Roding and some towing, but that’s my best guess?

[rightpedal]

Russell you nailed it. but I think Matt was asking about the 1999 truck I have the distributor from... That dist is very broken and not going to work any way. It also has a weird shaft size so the steel gear wont work either.

still going with points in the short term.

[CTX-SLPR]

Hopping onto and potentially hijacking another person's thread.

Thinking of this instead of getting an $85 Pertronix unit for my Bonneville motor. Is there such thing as a 4 pin HEI that doesn't run out of gas at 7000rpm? I'm most likely going to be running some form of ignition box add on with just mechanical advance so is the DIY link the Squirrel posted a good idea?

Thanks,

[rightpedal]

Hijack on brother! I like any thing that adds to the knowledge base...

You are using a V6 Buick right. Aren't they factory hei, or at least a couple of models. Is the base size the same? Would the upgraded V8 module work? Is it the coil that the limit to the rpm?

Steve

[yellomalibu]

There are people who have sworn that a "good" 4 pin hei module will work fine in the upper rpms, but when I popped the internal fuse in my MSD 6AL one night at the track, I threw a discount auto parts store ignition module back in the distributor and wired it up to get me going again. It started misfiring at 5300 or so, where the stock coil in the otherwise stock HEI unit controlled by the MSD pulled fine to 7200 (as high as I've ever turned it).

I sent the MSD back to get it fixed, and it has been working fine for over 10 years now, no maintenance.. You don't have room for an HEI, but a friend of mine used, for years, a points distributor to trigger his MSD. When using points as a trigger, they don't need the constant maintenance of gapping and dwell adjustment. If the car (or truck) sits for long periods of time, however, the point contacts can get corroded and need a quick filing to clean them up.

...but using a $200 ignition box may be hard to justify when a little maintenance of points will work.

[CTX-SLPR]

Hijack on brother! I like any thing that adds to the knowledge base...

You are using a V6 Buick right. Aren't they factory hei, or at least a couple of models. Is the base size the same? Would the upgraded V8 module work? Is it the coil that the limit to the rpm?

Steve

I'm using an oddfire which had like 2-3yrs with an HEI and the rest with points or the Jeep Prestolite. I have a points unit already and was pretty close to getting a Pertronix but I need to rev this thing to 7000rpm eventually.

There are people who have sworn that a "good" 4 pin hei module will work fine in the upper rpms, but when I popped the internal fuse in my MSD 6AL one night at the track, I threw a discount auto parts store ignition module back in the distributor and wired it up to get me going again. It started misfiring at 5300 or so, where the stock coil in the otherwise stock HEI unit controlled by the MSD pulled fine to 7200 (as high as I've ever turned it).

I sent the MSD back to get it fixed, and it has been working fine for over 10 years now, no maintenance.. You don't have room for an HEI, but a friend of mine used, for years, a points distributor to trigger his MSD. When using points as a trigger, they don't need the constant maintenance of gapping and dwell adjustment. If the car (or truck) sits for long periods of time, however, the point contacts can get corroded and need a quick filing to clean them up.

...but using a $200 ignition box may be hard to justify when a little maintenance of points will work.

Sounds like it's not worth doing except as a backup for me.

[rightpedal]

Finally got to work on the truck. Converting it back took a little time cause i am anal retentive. Man does it run good.

My dwell meter is dying I have had this thing 25 years. Hate to see a good old tool die. I think it is set for 30?

Timing initial 10 deg. Total ???? I forgot to check.

While I had crap out of the way I upped the main/sec jets a couple of sizes to start to cure the persistent lean condition all across the spectrum. I don't know how much the dis work had to do with how well the truck is running. I am guessing a lot.





A couple shots of the truck you guys are helping with. Thanks all.... and do take notice of the fine bargain bin "supper fast yellow" plug wires.

[Deaf Bob]

Sure is PURTY!
Glad you got it going...
If it won't start after sitting for months... Try rubbing a nickel on the point surfaces (with it OFF) instead of filing..this is a trick we use here in the damp PNW... Don't need to regap that way..

[rightpedal]

One thing I can guarantee is that the truck will not sit for months or even weeks and not be driven. Thanks for the tip.

Steve