Tweet
Right on the dirt, pretty common practice in my area.
-
Nick Smithberg
www.smithbergracing.com -
We do that too and wind up with a ton of busted foundations. The next one I pour will have piers under it and be cable locked. How thick is your slab? I got quoted for a 6" thick 40x60 and it was THE expensive component of the build. The building materials for the shop were less. Ouch.
Looks great, I'd be chomping at the bit now. Good luck with the patience / sealing it / letting it cure! Are you going to tint it? I've been wanting to paint mine grey like the garage stations I used to work at. Even though I hated cleaning them (EVERY FREAKING DAY) they looked great when they were clean.Last edited by Beagle; November 16, 2012, 05:52 AM.Flying south, with a flock of bird dogs.Comment
-
that surprises me too - no base or reinforcement? It does look really nice
Doing it all wrong since 1966Comment
-
The concrete was the most expensive part of my shop build.... it's why I'm paving outside rather than concrete landing padsOriginally posted by Beagle View PostDoing it all wrong since 1966Comment
-
My 'crete was about the same as the building cost. But they brought in a TON (actually, several tons) of underlayment. Gravel then sand, all compacted, then a vapor barrier. The concrete has reinforcing mesh and fiberglass in it. So far so good on the crack thing.
DanLast edited by DanStokes; November 16, 2012, 07:17 AM.Comment
-
It was a SG7 mix with fiber mesh and is 4" thick. We did lay rebar in the fill areas and the ground was compacted well (skid loader had issues digging it up for final grade). My guys are confident and so am I. My equipment is already on a floor they did and haven't had an issues. No tint, just gonna seal.Nick Smithberg
www.smithbergracing.comComment
-
no wire?Comment
-
-
The Company that came and installed my two post Rotary lift said they needed a minimum of 6 inches to safely anchor it, I knew I'd paid for a 6 inch floor with mesh but I was worried, as it turned out there was over 8 inches in that particular spot.Last edited by Grumpy; November 16, 2012, 10:09 AM.sigpic
Just an Old Drag Racer that still has dreams of going fast!Comment
-
I'm thinking about cutting a couple squares out to do a deep footing for the lift. I've heard of guys mounting the lift to a 4" floor and still be fine. I'm looking into the footing or just limiting the vehicle weight on the lift.Nick Smithberg
www.smithbergracing.comComment
-
I have a lift on a 4" floor - builder simply used a harder concrete said I'd be fine... as he's been doing pole barns since before I was born... I'll take his word for it ( in support of his statement - it hasn't moved at all, but also, I didn't build my building on fill for this very reason.)
So far, if it fits, it'll lift - I think the heaviest is my diesel truck - and again, no cracks, no wobble, no worries (now, the first few times I was biting my nails)Last edited by SuperBuickGuy; November 16, 2012, 10:40 AM.Doing it all wrong since 1966Comment
-
I wish I has an easy way to tell where the center of gravey of the vehicle was if I knew it was even with the post I would worry alot less. I put my Dodge 2500 Diesel 4x4 extended cab long bed on Dad's two post it on a 4" slab, with wire and stone under. Lived to tell about it.Comment
-
sounds right - I'll keep an eye open on this. Did you thicken it up for a mill or bigass lathe? That's where I was interested in the 6" pad.Originally posted by BOSSMAN View PostFlying south, with a flock of bird dogs.Comment
-
to be clear on why I'm asking - it's not the weight so much as the stability of the machinery and most importantly, the ability of the machinery to shake a pad. I want stability under a big lathe / mill... no shaking allowed.Originally posted by SuperBuickGuy View PostLast edited by Beagle; November 16, 2012, 04:21 PM.Flying south, with a flock of bird dogs.Comment
-
Concrete floor?! I thought you were gonna rough it with dirt and hay. haha.BS'er formally known as Rebeldryver
Resident Instigator
sigpicComment
Comment