62 Falcon - $5k challenge, how will it rise from the ranger's ashes?

[STINEY]

What clearance do you need for the lift?

(and Randall wins, he dislikes moving SO much that he double-posted over it!)

No moisture issues in these last few weeks of wild temperature swings? You are a lucky dog indeed! I've been putting the squeegy to good use.

[milner351]

the current shop is in a horrible spot for condensation and ground water in general - it has two sump pits if that's any indication - I was last there on Wednesday night and left the ceiling fans on high when I left in a feeble attempt to atleast curb the moisture - the floors are probably an ice rink now.
This weather is unreal.
I've not been in the new shop yet so I don't know what this latest crazy temperature swing has done.
At least the new shop is above the level of the driveway - unlike the current, and, it's got overhead doors, not sliders, and it's traditional framing, insulation, and drywal, not a "tin can".
The new shop ceilings are 10ft 6in down stairs, about 8ft upstairs.
Need 12ft for the two post lift - I can probably get a "drive on" in the 10-6.

No - I'm not tearing out part of the "upstairs" to make room for the lift, but I have considered putting a door in the floor and an I beam /
trolley for lifting stuff upstairs.

I hope to separate the upstairs (already split in half with a wall and door) into a wood-shop / storage, and some kind of man cave - I will be getting my drumset back from my nephew, who's interest waned - and I've been given a toddler size set of drums for Lee - just need to come up with some hardware, foot pedal, and seat... it has no cymbals - and that's probably a good thing!
maybe even an old pinball machine....

[Russell]

lol when the falcon is racing you can work on the man cave!

[Bob Holmes]

lol when the falcon is racing you can work on the man cave!

wow, that'll mean he'll be OLD!!

[TheSilverBuick]

(and Randal wins, he dislikes moving SO much that he double-posted over it!)

LOL, fixed!


My barn has a condensation issue. I figured it was due to the dirt floor. I'm hoping when I put a bunch of concrete in that some of the condensation will go away. Guess I'll find out when it gets done.

[Bob Holmes]

Put down some drain rock, sand and visqueen. Then pour the concrete.

[TheSilverBuick]

I was/am waffling on the visqueen, but I did plan on subbing out the ground and doing a sand and gravel pack under the concrete.

[Bob Holmes]

Don't waffle on the visqueen, its your vapor barrier.

[STINEY]

You might waffle some over insulation under the slab too.

Mine is 20" of compacted #57 stone, with 2 layers of plastic sheeting. (I had a roll of shrink-wrap left over from the boat-factory stint, it was free and I was tired of moving it around) I used it and another layer of normal plastic sheeting.

When the weather goes from a week of 10* weather (and the slab loses temp) then within 3-4 hours temperatures rise to 60*.......well I just don't see how to avoid it other than heating the shop full-time.

Cold slab + warm humid air = need large squeegee. A good insulation base MIGHT help decrease/slow the slab changing temps, and minimize the condensation somewhat.

[milner351]

Randal - these guys are wise beyond their years - even Bob - rumor has it - he's OLD! LOL

visqueen is an absolute must, insulation is a damned good idea. Lots of guys are putting pex tubing in before pouring just in case they decide to heat full time at some point in the future - it's hard to beat a warm floor - but it makes no sense for occasional use for us normal working stiffs.

The weather we've had in the midwest recently is completely unreal - I'm very afraid that my jetboat 428 and the rangers' old 71 boss351 shortblocks will have some rust on them now, even though they are on moving dollies a few inches off the floor and are bagged - the bags are not perfectly sealed, and I didn't put any kind of dessicant in them as I should have for insurance. I may end up paying for an over bore and pistons - expensive mistake. Hopefully my suspicions are wrong, and or I can clean up the rust with atf/acetone and some steel wool.

So - back a few pages I put up a to-do list for the falcon - knowing that moving will be in my future the next month or two - how about some of you smart folks give me some input on how best to move forward on this thing so I can get it on the road this spring....

[OldMachinist]

How far is the old shop from the new house? It seems obvious that you can't expect to finish the car if you get the new shop ready to use and then try to finish the car after that so plan on finishing the car to the point you can drive it before you start on the new shop.

This is assuming you want to make 2013 DW as a priority and can wait on working on the new shop. Is this what you are looking for as to input?

[Bob Holmes]

Old...OLD!!!

[Russell]

Post 1171; adjusted to save time and get on the track sooner with out doing too many things twice.



Body/paint:
1. repair window channel rust, prep interior painted surfaces.
2. paint pillars, dash, interior metal surfaces white.
3. install glass and trim
4. install seats


Wiring:
1. remove start on wiring in engine compartment
2. paint engine compartment,
3. resume wiring - loom runs, tie downs, trunk battery mount etc. once and for all.

chassis / plumbing:
1. install factory replacement fuel tank with drain plug, factory sending unit 3/8" feed - drain plug will become EFI return line port when the time comes - plan to leave factory vent alone (unless instructed otherwise)
2. run 3/8" steel hard lines for fuel from factory location up outside of sub frame rails, through wheel well and into engine compartment on driver side - allow for future rail mounted electric pump be it for carb or efi
3. run brake lines


Power train:
1. complete install of cal tracs, heim joints, u bolts, crown vic disc brakes - look into e-brake set ups (LS electric?)
2. confirm driveshaft length - have shaft modified / balanced as required
3. driveshaft loop fab and install
4. install engine, trans, shifter, tv cable, radiator, fan, shroud, etc.

And most importantly:
Drive in primer as much as possible to work bugs out before DW13!

UNKNOWNS:
Hoop? Cage?
Belts? Figure out which is easiest and they will let you run. 2,3,5 point belts, 0,4,6 point bar
Tach and AFR gauge location? Hose clamped to the steering wheel
Headliner? No
Cut-outs? Cool but not nessary.

Fuel filler in factory position or inside trunk with funnel / drain to outside? I say under the car.

Fill in factory reverse light holes in tail panel? I would do that when you do final paint and body after DW
(run 63 fairlane talights with reverse lights in center)

Swap 4.10 gears for lower numerical given 2.8 first gear in AOD?[/QUOTE] try what's in the rear you have.

[TheSilverBuick]

that is a big list!!!!

DF: Outside Door Handles.
MF: Ooh, that just put it over the edge. We can't make this now.



http://youtu.be/3gBxdfUs8v0?t=13m24s

You can do it John!!

[milner351]

Thanks Russell!

We are supposed to close on the new place tomorrow - it's been rescheduled once - I'm not holding my breath - I will believe it when we're holding the keys and have writer's cramp from signing our lives away.

The new house is a bit closer to the current shop - and it's an easier "commute" between the two, but no less a PITA to have stuff in two places.

I will probably get another air compressor to put in the new shop for the time being (trying to talk a friend out of one he's not using)
Moving the compressor out of the old shop is a semi major undertaking as it's on the top of the pallet racks next to the waste oil furnace - and the waste oil furnace requires compressed air to run. I can't move the hoist - so - that shop will still be used for "under car work" for some time.


Thanks for the vote of confidence Randal - our first priority needs to be finding tenants for the current house ASAP to minimize or eliminate any double mortgage payments.

I hope to get back on the falcon sometime in March.

Of course - some time in the spring will have to be spent resurrecting the JD420 from it's uknown time in slumber to be ready to mow again.