62 Falcon - $5k challenge, how will it rise from the ranger's ashes?

[cantvalve16]

Those tri-y's look like a nice piece. Where did those come from? The wheels look great on there, John. Keep pushin'.

[milner351]

I believe the tri-y came from mustang depot.


I will have to modify the passenger side some - the collector is aimed right at the trans pan... the driver side clears the trans by less than half inch (these are made for 65 mustang with c4 or manual trans)

[pintoboy77]

Love the Torque Thrust wheels go perfect with the car.

[milner351]

OK Gents - another question. I got the driver side motor mount modified to make room for the steering U-joint.

Then I assembled the mounts completely, snugged things up, and got out the square, level, tape measure, and angle finder.

With both engine mounts where they're gonna be - it's time to fab up the transmission mount.

The trans mount sets the driveline angle, and centers the whole shebang in the chassis.

I'm using factory rubber mounts - so I have a bit of room to wiggle
(I will probably run bolts with big washers through the driver's mount to make it more rigid)

I was able to pry bar things around to get the engine centered within an 1/8" every way I could measure.
(measuring from the inside of the frame rails to the CL of the crank)

Looking at the trans tunnel - I'm about as high up as I can go without cutting out the entire tunnel.


Is 5 degrees down to the rear too much angle? Will it mess up the drive shaft / rear axle relationship?

[STINEY]

The OEMs used "equal and opposing" angles if I remember rightly.......setting the pinion angle down for racing gets the proper angle "at load" while under full power for ujoint longetivity.

Here are some links I found quick.

http://www.drivetrain.com/parts_catalog/drivetrain/driveline_angles_and_phasing_problems.html

I know its 4WD oriented, but those guys eat driveshafts for lunch....they also have done a lot of learning to keep them together.

http://www.4xshaft.com/driveline101.html

My gut says 5* is too much. Carb base pads are usually 2-3* off from level with the crank centerline, hence you would be nearly twice that?

[Bob Holmes]

I think that 5* is beyond the norm. I think I'd be inclined to talk to one of the driveshaft vendors to see whether or not things would live at that angle.

[Russell]

(I don't know what I am talking about) Whats the height / elevation diffrence b/w the tail shaft and the pinion? What are you going to set the pinion at? something negative? Would a 5 down at the trans (lower elevation) help the angle at the pinion not be as steep?

[milner351]

I'm getting enough info that says that's too much - I'm going to slice the trans tunnel down the middle, bend the two sides closer to vertical, and weld in a patch down the middle.

Thanks for the input guys, I had a gut feeling it was too much.

Russell - I have to set the engine / trans angle, then set the pinion angle to match - the hardest part may be trying to simulate ride height with an empty shell of a car sitting on a hoist.

Cal tracs is sending out longer bars - $75 to my door powder coated, saves me the time of getting the right tubing to make them longer, and the fab time to cut and weld in sections. Anybody need some bars 18.75" long?

[STINEY]

I'm getting enough info that says that's too much - I'm going to slice the trans tunnel down the middle, bend the two sides closer to vertical, and weld in a patch down the middle.


- the hardest part may be trying to simulate ride height with an empty shell of a car sitting on a hoist.

Might keep your seats close at hand to make sure they will still fit as you "grow" the tunnel.


Do you have a water softener? How about buying a few "extra" 80# bags, and using them to simulate the necessary weight (including driver) on the ground, then making some bars that replace the shocks to hold the suspension at that height while on the lift? Basically locking the suspension at that heigth?

Then just use the extra salt as needed!

[milner351]

No water softener, but I do have a blasting cabinet that consumes sand over time.... good idea on the shock bolts, long threaded rod should be easy enough.

Lee's sand box needs more sand too.

[Russell]

So the tunnel's width is to narrow not to short? Better to cut the top then the sides and extend up? What about cutting a tunnel out of late model car and weld in? I like to think of other options even when you already know the best!

[BBR]

I assume you are saying the engine/trans combo is angled 5 degrees downward towards the rear? My question would be: 5 degrees down relative to what? A bubble level? If you are checking it while it's on the lift, that isn't a good indication of the actual angle when the car is complete and sitting on the ground.

Front and rear ride height will change that angle, and I know I live in the great plains, but not all our roads are perfectly level so I'm not sure just how much difference it makes!

[STINEY]

Looks like it is as UP as it can get right now.

[milner351]

Good point on the "level" the car is sitting level on the hoist now - 0* on the angle finder across the base of the rocker panels.

This is the standard most talk about using as a baseline when building a chassis - have to reference from something - and level us usually the reference.

I guess if I get it wrong at the rear axle, I can always add shims - it won't be the end of the world.

The tunnel in this car is very narrow - I think splitting it down the center and "sectioning" in a new top is the best - but we will see when I get a better look a things where it is actually contacting the trans case.

[gearhed1971]

Speaking of seats, I assume you're putting buckets in. I am tangling with that right now, and that stupid hump on the rockers sides is giving me fits. PITA to estimate ride height.Of course, I am trying to use mustang buckets with the studs on the bottom.