62 Falcon - $5k challenge, how will it rise from the ranger's ashes?

[STINEY]

At what point would it be easier to replace the rear fame rail with square tubing shifted over? Could you just add another frame rail inside the stock one to mount the rear shackel?

^^^
THIS has lots of merit. I'd add to it to run leaf spring rear sliders instead of hangers, which has the benefit of keeping the fenderwell lip off the tires, as they do not let the ride height change nearly as much as hangers do. And with the Falcon having rear tire clearance room at a premium, this could help lots.

If I remember correctly, a panhard bar isn't used with them either? If so, that further simplifies (and cheapens) things.

[milner351]

Stiney I've seen something of what you speak but don't recall the vendor - they replace the shackle with a roller set up where the rear of the leaf is captured not allowing any deflection side to side, but allows the spring to "roll" in a track basically forward and back as the spring arch changes during suspension movement.....

Removing the rear most part of the factory rail and replacing it with a piece of 2x2 or 2x3 tubing maybe feasible, need to look at it and see how much of the run is straight and where the rail moves over in its' rearward travel - to figure out where the new tube would graft into the existing.

[STINEY]

I did a little searching for you.....its AFCO and CDMBill here just put a set on his '71 mustang. Here's a link to the page on his thread http://www.bangshift.com/forum/showt...nd-time)/page5

I'll even steal his picture for tutorial purposes on your thread, future readers might benefit too.

[gearhed1971]

side outlet exhaust is cool

X2!!

[gearhed1971]

Ah the balance, time, money, effort, etc.

Crites makes a relocation kit that I don't like - $160.

There is a compromise....

From the factory the falcon leaf springs are outboard of the frame in the front, and straddle the frame in the rear (the frame curves as it goes up and over the axle and toward the back)

Some guys move the springs all the way to the other side of the frame - making the springs mount flush to the inboard instead of outboard side of the roughly 2" wide frame rail.... moving them 4" in on each side.

The other option is to cut into the frame rail and locate the front spring eye centered on the front frame rail, basically "inside" the front frame rail, moving them over 2". This is probably the best compromise from a packaging stand point - as it does not encroach into the muffler area under the back seat and it leaves more room for tail pipes (still puts the tailpipes close to the gas tank).

If I wanted to capture the 70's vibe - I could put the front of the leafs UNDER the frame rail lowering them about 2-3" inches and effectively raising the rear end of the car that much. But if I'm going to do that - I might as well radius the wheel wells for the 15x10 slots I have, wrap them in N50-15 M/T's and put side pipes on it. ;-)

Oh GOD no, please don't radius those beautiful rear wheel wells

[gearhed1971]

Here's what I have, nothing magnificent, but I like it. Hedman shorties to some Pypes swap meet bargain bin mufflers ($15 a piece) + the Jegs electric cutoffs.

[pintoboy77]

Milner if you don't like the kit or it's not strong enough dup it with stronger stuff and Craigslist that sucker you take the rear end saddles out of the kit or go to a spring shop and buy another set for about $12.00 that's what we pay for them for my sons derby cars.
Good Luck with it.

[milner351]

Gearhead71 - I won't radius the wheel wells - the car has way too little rust to succumb to such hackery - just playing around.... I really wish I could see your exhaust routing a bit better - I know it's tough getting a good under car picture while laying on the ground!

Greg - I may just end up having the local steel place bend up some 1/8" plate to make the "box" for the front spring mount and after looking at it more closely last night - I think the best solution is to build a short section of new "frame rail" next to and in line with the existing frame rail spring mount - basically a U shaped piece that the spring mounts to, welds to the frame in front of and behind the stock spring mount location - and welded to the trunk floor on top as well.

You can see in the pic how the frame rail changes shape as it goes up over the axle and comes back toward the rear of the car, the trunk floor is contoured down to the gas tank mount flange, so, putting in a new rail further inboard is only practical close to the factory mount location.

I found the source of the nasty smell and smoke while welding - those mice will get in anywhere! Passenger side floor getting closer to install. The mustang long front floor pieces are plenty long enough.

[TheSilverBuick]

Eeewww!

[STINEY]

MMmmmmm.......Milner Ratatouille...... pass the ketchup please.

[milner351]

Yea - it smelled nasty when it was smoking. Same stuff was inside the heater box.

So - any more perspective after studying the pic of the rear frame rail a bit more?

Here's what other guys have done - I'll probably duplicate something like the bare steel one shown below.

[Russell]

(Disclaimer I have never done this I don't know what I am talking about) The stock falcon frame rails are pretty thin. I would like to see some gussets on the one that is in bear metal. Dont know if possible but is there room to put two new crossmembers between stock rails on each side of the gas tank. Then add the new frame rails between the new cross members (extend foward and back to tie in shaped like a "#") so its like a big box.

[milner351]

I will add a cross member behind the fuel tank for sure, one in front of the fuel tank may also be feasible.

Mounting the electric fuel pump, filter, lines, mufflers and tail pipes will get interesting on this. A friend is trying to convince me to put a fuel cell in it - but I already have a new stock replacement tank and sender, and fuel cells - wow - aint cheap!

[STINEY]

The bolt-on aspect of the first one is pretty cool, looks like it sandwiches the floor with a doubler plate, while picking up its lateral strength from the original unibody rail.

That said, the second is probably way more than adequate. These are very similar to our '72 Nova, and it amazes me how little structural support the rear of leaf springs actually need. Think about it though, the front mount does all the real work, all the rear HAS to do is provide a pivot point.

Even in a cornering situation, that stock hanger doesn't provide the least bit of sideways support, and I remember sliding LOTS of leaf sprung cars sideways MANY times with no problems. Did the rear move side-to-side some, sure it did, but did the mount take any undo forces causing it to fail? I'm betting we all know the answer to that one....

So I'm voting on the second bare metal version, if it can be done cheaply enough. I'd still overkill it "while I was in there" with the sliders though, but then again I'm not buying the sliders am I? Perhaps if I were the hangers would be just fine?

[RAIV70Judge]

Ive got a brand new cell if you need it. Came with the s-10.