I think standing, you can duck and weave easier, laying on your back all you can do is watch it hit you while pissing yourself...
Rebeldryver's '70 Caprice Granny's Luxo-Muscle-Barge
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ya the starter gets to fall 5-6' and hit your toe's.. as you freak and the car guy in you, try's to save the starter from impending doom..Originally posted by Deaf Bob View PostI think standing, you can duck and weave easier, laying on your back all you can do is watch it hit you while pissing yourself...Last edited by NewEnglandRaceFan; March 13, 2014, 01:30 PM.Comment
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I got a chuckle from that one. As I've aged and stuff heals slower I've learned to let the starter (or whatever) fend for itself. I'll fix the solenoid (or whatever) later.Originally posted by NewEnglandRaceFan View Post
ya the starter gets to fall 5-6' and hit your toe's.. as you freak and the car guy in you, try's to save the starter from impending doom..
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Scott - the prices of portable lifts are coming down - many tire shops have them now - they lift from the middle of the underside of the car so both front and rear axles and areas near them are exposed. No good for exhaust or transmission swaps on a RWD car, but for tires, brakes, suspension - or under the engine work - they're great - and totally portable - with no holes in the concrete required - I think they lift the car up around 2-3 feet so ceiling clearance in a standard garage is no problem. I think you can pick one up now for 2 grand or a bit less.
here's one:
http://www.gregsmithequipment.com/At...e-Scissor-LiftLast edited by milner351; March 14, 2014, 08:00 AM.There's always something new to learn.Comment
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Did you drill the holes in the control arms or where they already there?Comment
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Drilled them. I used the U shaped brackets that came off the Monte as well. The trailing arms on the Monte were drilled as well. I did spend about $10 in new grade 8 hardware.Originally posted by Russell View PostDid you drill the holes in the control arms or where they already there?BS'er formally known as Rebeldryver
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Since I broke three of the four bolts that holds the bar to the brackets, not a lot of choice. The holes were big enough to move up to 7/16th bolts from the rusted 3/8th stuff they had. I am not sure how much pressure gets put on the rear sway bar, but didn't want to risk anything.BS'er formally known as Rebeldryver
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Did the U shape brackets detrimine the hole location? I ask because if you can lower the front hole and or raise the back hole it might raise the bar closer to the rearend? I will have to look under my mustang but I think the bar is above the bottom of the rear, Could the holes be moved farther back?Comment
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The bolt holes in the U brackets have staggered bolt holes. If I tilted them in the arms instead of parallel to the bottom of the trailing arms, the bar would've been closer to the bottom of the rear differential by maybe an 1 inch.Originally posted by Russell View PostDid the U shape brackets detrimine the hole location? I ask because if you can lower the front hole and or raise the back hole it might raise the bar closer to the rearend? I will have to look under my mustang but I think the bar is above the bottom of the rear, Could the holes be moved farther back?
BS'er formally known as Rebeldryver
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Here it is on it's wheels.

Took it for a spin. Not many curvy roads around here. Not sure if it is an improvement. It still takes corners like an elephant on an ice rink.
Took a few pics of the car. Didn't even bother washing the car first. The body side molding blew off the car last time I went anyways. Still have to put it back on. The car's rake got a little steeper over the last couple years too.

Here you can see the sway bar in relation to the differential.


BS'er formally known as Rebeldryver
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