BBR's 83GT - 552 BBF version 3.0 (at least)

[Dignlif]

Oh wow, didn't realize they made that for the 460. A bit more than a stocker at $397 but you only buy it once.

http://www.highflowdynamics.com/

[milner351]

So Rich - you already have yours on order? James - surely there's a fox mustang forum somewhere full of suggestions on how to make an in-chassis cam swap more feasible.
Given the future of your car - making the lions share of the core support removable wouldn't be horrible....

[BBR]

I don't think you could change a cam with that cover. You'd never be able to get the timing chain off. I think it is made to allow access for cam timing changes if you have an adjustable upper gear or maybe a belt drive.

[squirrel]

Belt drive....hey, it's fun spending your money!

[CDMBill]

Hmmm, belt drive, Danny Bee makes a nice one for BBF's. But, back in realityville the in car deal is doable by pulling most of the front dress, the radiator and I think the grill/bumper, and oh yes the damper and timing cover, most of which has to be removed anyway to pull the motor/trans anyway. Now the real trick is magnets on rods with lock collars so you can pull the lifters up out of the bores far enough to clear the cam bearing journals and avoid pulling the manifold. You need around .250 more than max lobe lift.this assuming you are re-using your roller lifters without direct inspection.

[Dignlif]

I don't think you could change a cam with that cover. You'd never be able to get the timing chain off. I think it is made to allow access for cam timing changes if you have an adjustable upper gear or maybe a belt drive.

oh yeah duh.

Bill brings the rest of reality in his description but it does sound doable...especially if required on the side of the road during DW as there would be lots of extra hands to help.

[BBR]

Now the real trick is magnets on rods with lock collars so you can pull the lifters up out of the bores far enough to clear the cam bearing journals and avoid pulling the manifold. You need around .250 more than max lobe lift.this assuming you are re-using your roller lifters without direct inspection.

That is a cool idea, but how do you get the magnets loose from the lifter when you're done?

[Russell]

The way I read it was you put the magnet on the top of the push rod pull it up then put a collar on the push rod so it does not drop. Once new cam is in place remove collar lower rod and lifter, remove magnet. But I am normally wrong so lets hear it from Bill!

[BBR]

There is a kit for SBF's available to do just this, but it relies on the spider lifter retainer (or the close proximity of the cylinder head in a SBF) to keep you from pulling the lifter's completely out and also to provide enough tension to pull the magnets free once you are finished.

http://www.fordmuscle.com/archives/2002/07/camswap/

[Beagle]

The 2000 model 5.0 from an Explorer had plastic dogbone trays like an LS, you can spin the cam and they will all lodge in the "up" position. I was curious about how long those rollers had been in your mill? Other than the obvious visual, how do you inspect them?

[BBR]

I did not know that. They were in the ill-fated Ranger motor first, then went into this motor in 2011.

Visual is about it besides using your highly calibrated 'lifter failure is eminent' ears to detect one starting to hammer because of excessive lash.

[BBR]

Did not go as planned. The car still would not hook on the radials. Best run was a 10.96 @ 126, with a 1.69 60. That is it's best ET ever in Amarillo. It was the old spin, pedal, hook, haul ass thing again. I tried just about every combo I could. Arb, no arb, shocks stiff, shocks loose, launch in 2nd, etc etc. Nothing really seemed to help. Might end up with a set of bias ply et streets or quick times. Lost my #1 spot to a buddy. His car is a turbo 347 and it really scoots. I knew going in I would not be able to maintain the top position. Good news is I only got called out once, so I am still in the #2 spot. Overall, it was a great time and can't wait until the next one!

[CDMBill]

Fancy u-shaped coat hanger wire tool pops lifters off magnets. It sounds like you getting closer with the drag radials. They best ET with what I assume to be a poor 60' tells you what ET you could be running on the DR? I think I would keep the ARB attached and shorten the IC a bit more if that is possible. Can you change the % AS a little with ride height? My reinforced stock upper chassis mounts will only give me two possible points. I forgot how many you have on the Wild Rides uppers?

[BBR]

At this point I'm thinking the front end is probably what is holding me back. The struts and springs are stock, so I have pretty much zero adjustability up there. I'm not real interested in spending money on coil overs and struts right now though. My buddy that knocked me out of the #1 spot just switched to a wider ET Street and has a near new set of Hoosier QTP's he said he'd sell me. I may just put a bias tire back on it and forget the radials. It always worked fairly well on the bias tires and they were less picky about track prep. I probably just need to stick with what works for me. The best ET is probably a combo of open cut outs and a little bit of weight reduction. Car really seems to pull good on the top end of the track inspire of being slow to the 1/8th. Might run 10.60's or better up here if I can get it to 60 foot better. That would make me dang happy.

[squirrel]

How much up travel do you have on the front suspension, before the tire leaves the ground? Didn't you raise the front of the car?