Cherry Sensor from DIY is a good option.
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Planning on using the old MS1 (2.2 board Extra loaded) to control ignition.
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Using Randal's mount as inspiration, I made a mount for the Cherry crank sensor. It needed to tuck up real tight to the timing cover because the 36-1 wheel will be mounted behind the hatchet weight. This requirement ruled out most aftermarket mounts because most are set up to have the trigger wheel on the front of the balancer.
The pic makes everything look a lot closer that it really is. That edge of the timing cover that looks like it is lined up with the tip of the sensor is quite a ways away.
Life is short. Be a do'er and not a shoulda done'er.
1969 Galaxie 500 https://bangshift.com/forum/forum/ba...ild-it-s-alive
1998 Mustang GT https://bangshift.com/forum/forum/ba...60-and-a-turbo
1983 Mustang GT 545/552/302/Turbo302/552 http://www.bangshift.com/forum/forum...485-bbr-s-83gt
1973 F-250 BBF Turbo Truck http://www.bangshift.com/forum/forum...uck-conversion
1986 Ford Ranger EFI 545/C6 https://bangshift.com/forum/forum/ba...tooth-and-nail
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I'm about to begin this swap.
What I have:
MS-1 Extra
MS harness - DIY Autotune
Cherry hall sensor and mount
36-1 wheel
Billet crank spacer
EFI Source Coil Ingniter
2 Pantera Coils and mount
Anyone notice any pieces/parts missing?
Let me make sure this is correct:
1. The 4 spark outputs from the MS go to the 4 inputs on the Ingiter. (any resistors needed in these outputs? I thought I saw something about that....somewhere)
2. Igniters connect to coil inputs
3. Coils to plugs.
Life is short. Be a do'er and not a shoulda done'er.
1969 Galaxie 500 https://bangshift.com/forum/forum/ba...ild-it-s-alive
1998 Mustang GT https://bangshift.com/forum/forum/ba...60-and-a-turbo
1983 Mustang GT 545/552/302/Turbo302/552 http://www.bangshift.com/forum/forum...485-bbr-s-83gt
1973 F-250 BBF Turbo Truck http://www.bangshift.com/forum/forum...uck-conversion
1986 Ford Ranger EFI 545/C6 https://bangshift.com/forum/forum/ba...tooth-and-nail
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Ha!
I guess now I'm really more concerned with what mods need to be done to the MS to make all this stuff talk and work.
Particularly this part at the moment:
http://www.msextra.com/doc/ms1extra/...anual.htm#hall
Not sure which section the Cherry sensor fall under.
A. Hi to Lo. For Hall Sensors that are Hi (+5V to 12V) when there is no tooth in front of the sensor and Lo (Gnd) when the edge of the tooth is in front of the sensor.
B. Lo to Hi. For Hall Sensors that are low (Gnd) when there is no tooth in front of the sensor and Hi (+5 to +12V) when the edge of the tooth is in front of the sensor. When hall sensor output is 5V use.
C. Lo to Hi. For Hall Sensors that are low (Gnd) when there is no tooth in front of the sensor and Hi (+5 to +12V) when the edge of the tooth is in front of the sensor. When hall sensor output is 12V use.
Last edited by BBR; July 14, 2016, 08:37 AM.Life is short. Be a do'er and not a shoulda done'er.
1969 Galaxie 500 https://bangshift.com/forum/forum/ba...ild-it-s-alive
1998 Mustang GT https://bangshift.com/forum/forum/ba...60-and-a-turbo
1983 Mustang GT 545/552/302/Turbo302/552 http://www.bangshift.com/forum/forum...485-bbr-s-83gt
1973 F-250 BBF Turbo Truck http://www.bangshift.com/forum/forum...uck-conversion
1986 Ford Ranger EFI 545/C6 https://bangshift.com/forum/forum/ba...tooth-and-nail
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I'm 90% sure the Cherry goes low with tooth in front of it. The pull-up circuit in the picture is correctly diagrammed for the Cherry sensor (resistor between the + and signal output wire). The first example in the link (Hi to Lo).
Without seeing your board up close, I assume this is the one you want to match. I use +12v on mine.
Looking at this video, I'm pretty sure I have one leg of the LED connected to +12v and the other leg connected to the sensor output, so it lights up (goes Lo) when reading the "tooth" on the back of the rotor. Ignore the LED wire color's.
Last edited by TheSilverBuick; July 14, 2016, 08:17 AM.Escaped on a technicality.
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Awesome. That's what I was leaning towards because of the 1k resistor.Life is short. Be a do'er and not a shoulda done'er.
1969 Galaxie 500 https://bangshift.com/forum/forum/ba...ild-it-s-alive
1998 Mustang GT https://bangshift.com/forum/forum/ba...60-and-a-turbo
1983 Mustang GT 545/552/302/Turbo302/552 http://www.bangshift.com/forum/forum...485-bbr-s-83gt
1973 F-250 BBF Turbo Truck http://www.bangshift.com/forum/forum...uck-conversion
1986 Ford Ranger EFI 545/C6 https://bangshift.com/forum/forum/ba...tooth-and-nail
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This is making more sense now! Took some pics of my MS board and Igniter. xg1 & xg2 and D8 are already jumpered so I just need to remove D5 and jumper it. I'll keep the 1k resistor external of the MS box.
Igniter has the 330 ohm resistors in it that are required to go between the MS and the coil driver.
Oh, and the Cherry sensor is a "sinking current output" Hall sensor. (switches to ground) So the diagram above is the correct one.Last edited by BBR; July 14, 2016, 01:49 PM.Life is short. Be a do'er and not a shoulda done'er.
1969 Galaxie 500 https://bangshift.com/forum/forum/ba...ild-it-s-alive
1998 Mustang GT https://bangshift.com/forum/forum/ba...60-and-a-turbo
1983 Mustang GT 545/552/302/Turbo302/552 http://www.bangshift.com/forum/forum...485-bbr-s-83gt
1973 F-250 BBF Turbo Truck http://www.bangshift.com/forum/forum...uck-conversion
1986 Ford Ranger EFI 545/C6 https://bangshift.com/forum/forum/ba...tooth-and-nail
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Vintage! haha
Life is short. Be a do'er and not a shoulda done'er.
1969 Galaxie 500 https://bangshift.com/forum/forum/ba...ild-it-s-alive
1998 Mustang GT https://bangshift.com/forum/forum/ba...60-and-a-turbo
1983 Mustang GT 545/552/302/Turbo302/552 http://www.bangshift.com/forum/forum...485-bbr-s-83gt
1973 F-250 BBF Turbo Truck http://www.bangshift.com/forum/forum...uck-conversion
1986 Ford Ranger EFI 545/C6 https://bangshift.com/forum/forum/ba...tooth-and-nail
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Originally posted by BBR View PostVintage! haha
[ATTACH=CONFIG]n1114141[/ATTACH]
Squirrel doesn't publicize it, but he has one of those "vintage" units too. No overly surprising eh? Tried to convince him to turn it into a data logger or use it on one of his mundane engines (like the Suburban).Escaped on a technicality.
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Great progress this weekend!
Because Bill uses a belt drive, the coil mount that he used stuck up awkwardly on my engine. So, I decided to bend it over the top of the dummy distributor. Hydraulic presses work great for this! Plug wires are not correct in this pic. Bill had everything marked really well, but it took a while for it to really click in my mind. It all makes perfect sense now.
The original idea was to use the billet hatchet. Unfortunately, it fit sooooo tightly on the crank that putting it on and taking it off to test fit stuff would have been a gigantic pain in the butt. So I decided to give the stock cast steel spacer a whirl.
Everything seems to fit sooooo good. The MS manual said to set the sensor at the 9th tooth from the missing tooth, so that's how I did it.
I started to put my SFI balancer back on and noticed the center was loose. I could push it in and out with my fingers. Thankfully, it has not slipped. I ordered a new Summit one last night to replace it.
I probably have the only Megasquirt with a license plate for a front cover. haha I had some aluminum, but thought the old license plate might be more fun to use.
Spark outputs A, B, C & D were wired to spare pins X11, X12, X13 and X14 on the DB37 connector.
I wired up a key-on relay to power the coils and set up the MS on the toggle switch I used to use for the HEI ignition. That way I can power up the MS and fiddle without having to turn the key on. Fuel pump, water pump and cooling fan will remain on toggle switches so I can control them at will.
Left to do:
- Jumper D5 in the MS
- Figure out where to mount Igniter. Under hood would be awesome, but I think I would need probably need a different enclosure for it.
- Wire in MS pig tail
- Reinstall balancer, pulley, belt and radiator cooling fan.
- Final mount the MS
- Program MS
- Turn key and cross fingers
Getting close!!Last edited by BBR; July 18, 2016, 07:30 AM.Life is short. Be a do'er and not a shoulda done'er.
1969 Galaxie 500 https://bangshift.com/forum/forum/ba...ild-it-s-alive
1998 Mustang GT https://bangshift.com/forum/forum/ba...60-and-a-turbo
1983 Mustang GT 545/552/302/Turbo302/552 http://www.bangshift.com/forum/forum...485-bbr-s-83gt
1973 F-250 BBF Turbo Truck http://www.bangshift.com/forum/forum...uck-conversion
1986 Ford Ranger EFI 545/C6 https://bangshift.com/forum/forum/ba...tooth-and-nail
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In the interest of time, I'm going to abandon this thread and continue this on my main build thread. No sense in doubling up. This topic picks up at post #3280.
Here it is!!! Picked this up today and an 8.8, install kit and some 3.90 gears. ;D The wet pics make the paint look pretty good. It is really faded. Interior needs work, but that stuff is available. The underbody is very very clean and that makes me very very happy. Odo shows 70k miles.
Life is short. Be a do'er and not a shoulda done'er.
1969 Galaxie 500 https://bangshift.com/forum/forum/ba...ild-it-s-alive
1998 Mustang GT https://bangshift.com/forum/forum/ba...60-and-a-turbo
1983 Mustang GT 545/552/302/Turbo302/552 http://www.bangshift.com/forum/forum...485-bbr-s-83gt
1973 F-250 BBF Turbo Truck http://www.bangshift.com/forum/forum...uck-conversion
1986 Ford Ranger EFI 545/C6 https://bangshift.com/forum/forum/ba...tooth-and-nail
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