attacking a monojet

[Barry Donovan]

pcv mistake

The cough in the cold start of monojet.. I had to really remember what helped that on my 250ci of 20 years ago…

the pcv valve.

So I ordered one for the sube. It is 20 something years old. That should get the cool run back to good. I also removed all metal tubing from pcv circuit, back to rubber/synthetic lines. I gave a fat one for driver side head to act as a catch tube, fatter than the oem version, just for a couple of inches, before returning it back to oem size. I must admit, changing those to aluminum pipe was the beginning of an oddity..that was 4 years ago. I never put that event to tie it in to what happened next. oem rubber hoses were bigger in diameter.

I guess I gotta get my juices flowing with some labor to reel in some memory. Again, I made the same mistake, 20 years apart.

this is the cold start anomaly.
for the list of things done impossibly... I am not too uptight over this silly mistake.
a fresh engine does not need all the pcv given. I should not have doubted the diameter of piping.
I still confuse myself for engines that flow easy, the inlines and v8..they just flow simply the pcv stuff. boxers cannot.

[Barry Donovan]

incinerator

I admitted here to working at a quick lube, almost 20 years ago..carbs and injecteds still overlapped. Giant beasts and little thumpers.

one thing I have never encountered is poisons that went caustic..close..but no real danger. Radons mostly..those go away in the wind.

this sube engine had a caustic. miles and evidence don't match..I could guess more than 3 times as many miles than on the odometer.

the last thing it ate was itself. the gasket for monojets deemed useless.

I awoke last night in alot of pain. this was not muscle strain from thrashing the little engine around..this was different. as if on a timer, an odor was leaving my lung.

carcinogenic fire. An old smoke..very powerful smoke from a very powerful fire.

the old engine was done.

got the grape fruit and apples (anti oxide foods)..wait it out, stretch slowly.

a real runtime of 25 years is not a pleasant thing. Especially after hanging onto poverty for more than half of it.

glad that part of this is over. my dream of hanging onto a crazy long run time has big odds...if the engine itself is good..something in the world is going to kill it anyway.


by chance, I asked the garage next door if they wanted the old engine to turn in for junk. I would not even get the pennies for gas taking it to the steel pile local (there is only one within 150 miles). We got to talking of the internal problem, he says he has a subaru out back (I mean out in back) 2002, same error. No repair, has to scrap engine and parts. The engine was rare enough to just let it sit there.
That was uplifting to me, but feel bad for the newer car owner. Same error as a first gen SOHC 25 years old.

if there is a real spam for subaru...I keep encountering it. It is not good for their business..my real life version.

[Barry Donovan]

highway newer engine+ monojet

I guess I can try the loring thing now.

a few small updates..the pcv is removed from fuel bowl vent line
spark plugs are back to copper #6, on unsleeved heads (perfect heads - never seen that on an ea82)

headers are seated, wating for final, this one has never run with no egr..all 4 cyls are the same fire.

the monojet has a colossal other end, I am only playing with part throttle bridging for now.

..and that clutch fan is fantastic. I can hear it even at 70 mph.

no leaks anywhere.

no odors from the monster jet.

hydraulic lifters seem to be the only difference mechanically, and the internal flow problem fixed. Awaiting pcv (I could have picked one up local for 4 bucks but went internet addiction instead)


the last glimpse of a 25 year running engine.Inside a rollin oats box... Atop railroad ties behind a metal couch with no cushion.Most likely a metaphor, for the kind that think of those things.

[Barry Donovan]

aurora has retreated

I was anticipating some stuff called AT-205 reseal, via a video on you tube by scotty kilmers garage (43 year mechanic..no bullshitter). Like me, he just doesn't swap out power steering for a small leak either. Anyway, that was a few days ago, had it on order. Added some today, for seeming no reason at all.

yesterday, rain has moved in..expecting a fight with the car to start cold and be nice...and it did not fight. in fact, there is something so dead and calm I am wondering about other things.

power steering is not only right on the mark on the little stick..there is no leak. the engine, gas, power steering, water pump, nothing.

was the old engine nuclear? I do know not to think that far fetched. maybe as simple as a concentric engine gaining a wobble. A frequency unknown to our butts in the seat..but oh, the metals know its there when it happens.

the first 20 years had 13 inch wheels, I bought it with a cracked center in one of them, sheered lug, bent rear end tube, sloppy engine crossmember (they are bolted in on this car..and it was literally movoing to bumps in the road), two destroyed axles with a half butt attempt at new boots to make it look normal...and a caved in paper element oil filter.

only one thing can go that far, and it is perfection in poverty.

dumping the last gallon jug that drained the old engine at the garage..stuck my nose in it like a former quick lube man does. all normal. it was a very hard metallurgical problem after all.

moving on..with a very nice carb.

here is the last anal retentive extra terrestrial trial and error chore...(err: japanese)


I am one who counted strands to make my own fusible links...but simple engine ground? why why why did it go this einstein on itself.
the welder ground version seems to be the good answer...and nicely high grade.

shrugging it off, and driving on..

with genuine caterpillar chassis paint on the oil pan, cat engine yellow on the entire rear end, little pumpkin.
the blood red color of cat engine coolant in the brass copper radiator, nitrites at 550ppm, and molybdates the same.
300k intervals is the scale of this engine.. I cannot lie.

the smell of a chain going the other direction has whiffs of the undercoat. The at-205 is a genuine fighter of something real...


and only one reward, almost pretentious...the bellow of a rochester on a happy engine.

[Barry Donovan]

remember purge valves?

I was just watching a video about mythbusting blow off valves and chuckled.

another huge reason for the monojet, needle and accurate seats..

my little sube, like alot of 80s four bangers with high vacuum had a thing called a purge valve, sometimes more than one. Subarus version, without a computer, rides static electricity to know when to hiss like a little turbo letting off pressure to vent. Modern cams, and accurate exhaust fixed the insanity.

goal was to drop a couple of inches of vacuum with bigger intake, modern cams, and of course a giant barreled monojet...and it worked.
22 inches or greater, down to 20 in Hg.

my own does not need that stuff anymore of course.

today the purge design to atmosphere is not just unethical in some locales, but not even legal. manufactured cars with it, can keep it of course..should be antique status and defended now anyway.

just silly.

[Barry Donovan]

new pcv

the sun came out as mail showed up.

installed pcv after verifying the old to new. the old was more than half shut at cold ..that is indeed a bad one. the new one was ovr double the distance closer to the other end on the new spring.I thought back many years to busting butt at a quick lube. 40-100 cars a day.

on a scale of 1 to memory..this subes pcv was among the worst. I did not know they really went bad..but I guess they do after many years. simply the spring inside caving in...squashy, losing ratings.

assuming to open idle air screw a bit more..it wanted the opposite. I guess this means it rides pcv as a source of air at 500rpm when pcv valve is correct. This means no perfect smooth idle..there is little spits and puffs and sputters.

for a good block that is not made anymore... yeah. I can live with that..good clean innards. this will also let me know of airless gas attacks (my city is horrifying)..if idle stalls, I will know I am in an airless squirt.

as it was, after starting, I could smell a bit of my radiator when it was new. it seems they shipped it with nitrogen, keep brass/copper from oxide. made sense to me..and of course any metal likes airless. combustin is the only place we donlt want it. pcv is the good devil we have to live with.

[dieselgeek]

I am impressed that you are incorporating all the smog controls like the PCV valve as you convert from EFI to carb. The videos are the best, keep them coming, there's nothing better than proof that your efforts are kicking ass.

Way to go man, I still enjoy this thread. -Scott

[Barry Donovan]

I am impressed that you are incorporating all the smog controls like the PCV valve as you convert from EFI to carb. The videos are the best, keep them coming, there's nothing better than proof that your efforts are kicking ass.

Way to go man, I still enjoy this thread. -Scott

am glad to choose the net and find diverse places.
this is a subject to generalize in many ways...makes it easy.

aside from getting old, it is now for some of us. My dad and alot of his age group , after teaching, gave up when old school faded away. I will not be letting go of it.

onto the little pcv results..
a peculiar thing happened, I revved up and let down..and a grumble rumble around 1500 to idle. I'll be darned...the I-6 I ran 20 years ago with the same carb..did the same exact thing on a brand new pcv valve.

a real good runtime is on its way. The boxer sounds like a motorcycle. All four thumpers thumping. it is a little heaven to me.I have yet to get the big throttle open. been fixing little things, verifying all is well. should be ready now.
fuel is there, compression...fire is still a wonder for the 135..
115mph is there easy, in fact some might laugh if I could record it and share.



like a dummy, I had both new and old..did not get photo. rare occurence to me..as pcv never dies.
this is old one, 22 years. spring pressure is next to nil. the rpm band of pcv working was somewhere throttle on and very narrowed. nothing at idle. I wanted idle to have a seep, as throttle valve opens the prime is there..a new valve did just that. Cough should go away. this takes time, and it does work.

you know when you gained the idle pcv when idle air screw needs a turn in.

a needle and seat carb is most effectove for finding that realm. open jets, constant fuel and air bleed at every throttling/idle may not notice. Another pro for needle and seat.

EDIT: upon further looking close..the pcv valve I got was simply a kem brand. (I like seeing "made in usa".). this also brought me back to how to decipher the valves. the plug slop at full closed on the sucker side should be enough to still seep. ..the goal is not a tight pvc. the old oem one had next to nothing, even as clean..the kem is good and loose in comparison. I then remembered most oems have it tight, it makes their engine look good, like it has no pollution at all. of course, most of us know that is a crock of shit (a pun). the block has to breathe, if it means puffing the acid out the exhaust...and that is always rare once you let it have a nominal seep.

oem pcv may be a number one silent slow killer.

[Barry Donovan]

a bit longer run

highway, heading north it turns to 75mph. Always a place that demanded more from every make and model of my cars. I thought gearing for 165mph was normal after 100k on the same route for years...and i did build one. Just one. A v8 of course..
anyway,

the spfi subaru engine had a unique ignition. I ran one..certain range of rpm would get like a fake misfire. To my amazement, swapped over to a normal distributor for carbs (classic hei type)..it is doing the same thing now. odd.

it brought me back some years to my last spfi subaru. I got advice to not change plugs, simply check wires etc.. I had learned of the disty anomoly. I never did get a whole explanation, but learned it stops as strangely as it started, something in the metallurgy of the spfi disty. Wait it out. I do not have that metallurgy in there now..so this will clear out quick. I am at 40 miles so far , after install.

that is where it is at now. for some reason, I have not deciphered..it is written as a 9.5 to 1 engine. As japanese combines static and air flow to gain a number, this only means the cams are big on the same old flat tops they used for 9 years.

A steeper hill, orono maine to be precise.. I knew how to verify the hitching error as pretentious. I stayed in 5th gear 3k rpm (72mph)...and near floored it. climbed right into smooth. It not only sustained, it gained speed. This does verify that weird error lingering on. It won't take long on a hot day..and black oil clears it faster than clean. I'll give it some miles.

I guess this is the most powerful n/a ea82 I have built to date. Still very humble. I have matured enough to realize preservation can't be a hack job. gaining power safely...I am learning.

ponder 90hp airflow...2.65 inch stroke, 2300 pound AWD with adult size tires and wheels. it is darn near magic to figure how that tiny engine does it.

I am wandering ahead to thoughts of the T/O run at loring..and see what other little cars are doing as well.

the barrel is just big enough to like the hydraulic lifters at idle, and the slower gain to its own big opening. The original "vtec" I presume...hydraulic lifters.

[Barry Donovan]

12v bleed

I had one error in the whole car. the door switch that turns on dome light. I unplugged it 5.5 years ago. Thought a 12v bleed washitting the b-pillar. I also thought the door switch was a one wire, like a newer legacy.

as it turns out, it was a two..and the 12v, although not open ended, was sitting directly on the metal floor under the rug.

holy crap.

the only error in the whole car is now fixed.
knowing carbs work on feedback, it is not just air fuel.. it is electric too, especially the monojet (rochesters)..
I was still getting hesitation, and i finally gave it alot of fuel down low rpm, torquing..guessing that feed bleed was the culprit...and it not only stopped hesitating, the exhaust pipe flange I am waiting to seal got quiet instantly.

it seems the bleed from the 12v was attacking something in the engine bay.

I got a hint to check the area when I found white salty looking stuff around my welds at b-pillar today, external. No undercoat where I had put some. I thought the worst...like roof leaking etc.

it really wasn't. On a silly note, I have never heard the tinkerbell for an 87 subaru driver door related..nor ever seen the light on the dash showing me door was open..and lastly, the dome light is the brightest I have never seen for any of these models.


one little wire. I could guess someone plucked at it in rage over the door dinger. I had to fix the door with weld and sheet to get the switch to close a few years ago.Never did decipher the problem. blamed a "1wire switch" this whole time, I assumed it to be a 1 wire setup..the plucking at the plugin was perfectly plucked to show no connection. further digging today, after finding the salty bottom side..and there it was. ..just sitting there. glad it was closed ended, no copper showing..although that would have popped a fuse to tell me there was a short. perfectly shithead error.

this little buggy is getting interesting... the sale price just went up $2000 after finding that stupid rage motivated error..the only electrical one.(the entire car works).

if to go in rage over a door dinger...pluck at the ground next time. A*****. better yet..get off your butt and fix the problem.

[Barry Donovan]

running engine vid

left a big long description on you tube..
but I'll leave the monojet stuff right here.
this vid is final build, and even adjustments. any coughing is working its way out. changing system grounds sent it on a spell as well. return line in use.

I am barely playing with throttle. instead of the hollow backside of almost filling in like the original runtime..this is a very big air fuel for the 1781. Dead revving seems immature when a power curve actually goes with it. A cold start today got the sounds of the pilot bearing..the last concentric is there. (I look forward to that event with this boxer)

I did not get the motorcycle type sound ..but it gives a hint of it (I was just shooting quick vid)

something some of you who swap engines around might relate to, is colding the power steering after a previous hot engine. I have done that several times, 6,8 or 4 cyl it don't matter. if that pump was hot in the engine bay on the old engine..odds are seals won't come back. the pumps do...but seals don't like that game. That is the other sound besides clutch fan..the pump is riding tighter on its bearings. easy going.

edit: as frustration would have it, I took ps pump off car, took it apart (very interesting stuff) I was in a hurry, as it seemed it was gaseous foriegn and in the house.
I found the one seal that was doing all the work, it matched an ea82 oil pump. having 4 of these pumps, I got seals and doohickies all over the place. found a fat seal, and made it the best pump it has never been. this somehow rumbled the carb with an air suck. strange physics. the rack is right above the header pipes, maybe the electro monojet and the steering found each others seepers.

all tight now..and boy oh boy did it let out some odors. I may not even need a whole rack..the seal bad stops return line pressure, and it is not known to be errorred when it does lose it.

[Barry Donovan]

AT-205 resealer summary

I mentioned this in previous post for power steering.

I guess i do not have complaints. I had some not so friendly things to say when everything acted like a blowout was unfolding. I take it back.

the chemistry showed me the seal at pump was bad. Being a sucker side of the pump...I guess it makes the resealer clever to make it come out the other way to show me it was a pissing hisser of a sucker. I had a hunch it was some years ago..but could not prove it for the life of me. I did get to tear into one heck of an unusual power steering pump. wow. Easy to fix anyway...and the carb is back to smooth at the idle airbleeds.

and the rack, it has been one day.. it is in fact down to one dirty brown drop. this tells me the fluid is simply lingering, long enough to burn on the header.

if you must try something ..this stuff is worth a try. No offense meant to be given as my chemistry chain of japanese oddity really is a basturd.

the reason I know the reseal is good.. nothing will ever seal on the rack with a return line sucker leak at the pump. the sheer weight of not being able to go back to pump can even make a good rack seem bad.

I guess I learned something: the rack leaks? check the main seal at the pump first. the carburetor wil thank you for it.

upon further digging, memory..
the original seals with nitrile rubber met their match in bangor maine. I actually learned of them in the 80s. freak chance for exploding front main seals etc..I have suffered every exploding chain reaction...all the way to castings death (broken block)
as it turns out, the chain set off on a sucker side of the pump revealed by the at205. The last crazy seal this car had. I specifically ordered the shaft seals separate..must be a couple years ago, forgot all about it. So..the one I replaced is now polyurethane, double lipped, spring inside the lip..and I also remeber why it was wider, I ordered <1mm wider. you will probably not find that in an ea82 gasket set..and I feel for you.

the bad shaft gasket is the end before it begins. my own sucked in a some salted uranium. unsatisfied chemistry does alot of sucking.

[Barry Donovan]

cold start revisited

Took float bowl cover off..beautiful day.

it occurs to me, it is a dry float bowl. especially with return line allowing to shut the pressure down within seconds.

this is the other gain for 5mpg in the city (alot of offs and ons)

so...
the cold start cure has to work with the pump design given. if it does not start within a few seconds, let off, let pump give the silly exact timed interval subaru gave it (Can't fool me about pressure shutting it off..it is on a relay that gives it a few seconds and no more)..hence my battle with it. I thought pump was shutting off to pressure gained on the line..it is not. it is a hoax.

started right up after the third primer. a few seconds at a time for each one.

I spotted the mustang in the burnout monday thread...big ol fuel fuel pump that turns on with the key. the little sube needs that setup as well...but did find a way to start it reasonably enough the way it is.

..and my only "hot rod" sticker is on the fan shroud, it is a little sticker that takes up the whole width of japanese proportion..
"spec clutches and flywheels".


the mechanic that inspects my car walked by, inquiring if I shot at it yet.

"With a rod flying through the block, it was more entertaining than a gun."

this mechanic, I wanted to mention, predicted "clutch and engine by next year"...and it happened. beyond my own ears and will and building..some got a good eye much smarter.

[Barry Donovan]

custom air boot seal

I did machine a perfect ring for this..and even kept it flat on the top of carb for the rubber boot…but I want to be sure.

I found this density foam on a bondo/sand paper drill gun disc, dipped it in toluene to see if it passed the petro test, and it does. Something I do not have, like 90% of carbs out there, is the multi layered paper looking gasket (they seep very very slowly for a reason) for the intake manifold side..on my own build it is a hard mount, no seep, no bullshit gas proof seal to allow carb to fit under hood properly. This at the top of the carb should be that mystery helper of why carbs need to do that..cleanly of course.


..and so I ran outside with scissors in my hand with point facing a way of deep risk of injury, and put this on. I also thought it may stop a rumbling hard seat when it should need to pop a frehky found oxide (new installs only - the carb does get very quiet and happy). This is no doubt related to the crazy suby alloy, once they get air for more than 3 nanoseconds.

as the cfm is exactly correct from the monojet and the engine combo..the thick gaskets with hidden reliefs are not necessary. The carb, as I have said, is sitting on its own version of heaven..

[Barry Donovan]

final seat




I mentioned a gas test to see if the foam worked. It is not necessary if the ring is anywhere near correct. buying a seal for these is the same old cheap paper looking stuff, or even air bleed choking tar paper. The backfires from previous install mangled at the 16gauge. Another reason for a squashy absorber. I did not know gas could come out like a blow torch. I don't recall seeing that very often. This engine does not have the polymer chain, nor a nuke element..does good. This monojet problem existed on my 250ci as well. Buying a two barrel sized plenum is often too small for odd reasons of manufacture. Custom always has an answer..


this is all seated. started up late this afternoon. found the partial throttle screw cover was leaking a drop..filled it in with the pro seal silicone. Stopped instantly. Pressures are on. No power steering errors anywhere..have not seen that in several months. It was the ps pump this whole time.. silly me. it even affected the airbleeds on the carburetor. Pcv brought a smell like diesel..I now know where previous owner left off with the engine, a seafoam, or other engine cleaner. the atsugi patented pistons take days after taking air away. Strange but tough. the gasket on top of carb in previous post was needed after all to fill the cylinder. the engine borders needing a higher octane just to idle. old school compression. pcv on part throttle got it right out of there.

this car will be up for sale shortly..I will always pretend it was not the most intense pile of detail after detail after detail I have ever gone through. Finishing off with a fender and proper paint code. The little pushbutton trim clips arrived today.. I put the grille right back to 1987 with original cheesy pushbuttons.

if I had emotions over a machine..or a better memory to put into perspective a list that went onto well over 100 intense chores.... I could almost cry. I should weld my name on the hood. I will never be rewarded in money, but for a boxer and carb in the correct place.