Yup... I didn't know if your model had dynamic braking.... from what you are saying, it obviously does.... Probably has a provision on the terminal strip for installing a large e-stop button as well.... https://inventables.com/technologies/e-stop-button
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There was mention of dynamic braking, so if the brake is holding the motor back, puts it under a greater load and pops the breaker. I dont know enough about those converters, I would think its more of a capacitor than transformer, but if its undersized you wont get the proper amps to the motor. I did that once on a german made compressor that needed 240 and we only had 208 in the building.
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it looks so nice like this
nope, that's not a finished picture
first, that tube, the one with the loosely screwed on cap... yeah, there's oil under it - do ask me how I know... but do put ear plugs in the children before you do..
it's a motor
and it's wired for 240... damn
so I checked everything else.... no joy, some minor problems but I think the motor has an issue. That doesn't mean run to new quite yet, the next update will include that motor pulled apart to be sure it doesn't have carbon built up on the brushes... if not, then to a rebuild shop.
With that said, a Baldor CEM3211T is a perfect replacement... so the 'limit' on fixing it is somewhere around the 480 that a new one sells for. I need to measure the bolt spacing on the front and the shaft size to see how easy a replacement would be. The motor is 3.5 hp, 3 phase, 1725 giri. That translates into a 3 hp motor with 1725 rpms (or rounds, as they say in Italian).Doing it all wrong since 1966
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Originally posted by anotheridiot View PostDo you have any place, like work that has regular 240 you can hook that up to out of the lathe to eliminate that converter from the equation?Doing it all wrong since 1966
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I just thought before you make the trip. Around here, they tell you if a motor is not worth 275.00, its not worth rebuilding, so you should save a couple hundred dollars. Those converters and transformers are just tricky, so if they test and its good then its in your panel or the converter is too small.
I know the simple stuff, like a transformer takes half the amps at 480 that it does on 240, so if you are converting 240 to 480 you have to supply 100 amps to get 50.
If it is the converter, then it either going that route again or just getting the single phase motor as a replacement.
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I appreciate the thought - but the motor does work, albeit it turns at maybe 20 revolutions per minute. The direct issue is the VFD shuts it off with the error message that it's drawing too many amps... that said, in its current configuration, it's possible that it could self-heal because it will turn forward, slowly, for awhile - that said, that's a darn good way of burning the motor to a non-rebuildable state so I'll pull the end off tonight and give it a look-see.
I think I mentioned this before, but I'll say it again, the controller can control up to a 30 hp motor - this 3 hp motor barely taxes its capabilities.Last edited by SuperBuickGuy; July 25, 2018, 08:06 AM.Doing it all wrong since 1966
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usually I think of #4 wire when looking at a 30 horse motor, well, an old motor that can draw up to 90 amps. Does not look like those terminals are big enough for big enough wire. Newer 30 horse motors are more like 65 amps.
When I replaced my motor on the lathe I bought, I could not use the same drum switch for the way the motor is wired. Some motors have 4 leads others have up to 7. So maybe the VFD is not compatible with that old timer motor since they take alot of amps to start turning and then use less after it starts to spin.
I hope you find the problem.
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Having been an industrial electrician for 25 years, it is surprising the difference between NEMA equipment and IEC equipment standards.... that is an IEC motor if I'm not mistaken....it startles you the first time you see the difference between the two side by side....Patrick & Tammy
- Long Haulin' 2008, 2009, 2010, 2011, 2012, 2014...Addicting isn't it...??
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