Originally posted by Loren
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Lathe hook up and operation
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Originally posted by SuperBuickGuy View Postthe controller he's using
https://www.wolfautomation.com/index...UaAvzdEALw_wcB
$235.00.... not bad, a phase controller costs as much if not a lot more.
Not Chinese, US made.Last edited by SuperBuickGuy; June 12, 2018, 07:29 AM.Doing it all wrong since 1966
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Originally posted by SuperBuickGuy View Post
trailer pricing here - they think they're plated in gold. Someone just put one up for $2500 that needed work, you can buy them brand-spanking-new for $1900.
Memorial day deal was 1500 for an 8x20 enclosed, the almost new one on friday was 3 grand. These are the ones that are 6500 new. Around Chicago, anything under 2500 for enclosed is gone within hours. Tried to get a craigslist app working to get alerts like letgo and it never gave me any alerts and all the listings started with cars or trucks with a hitch that could pull a trailer.
I am just almost as glad to not have to look anymore, but someone offers me 4500 for this its gone.
As far as the lathe, 230 for a new motor, 60 for a new drum switch for said motor, now 149 for an 8" chuck so I can make my bead roller dies in one operation hopefully and not lose my center and dimple dies.
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Originally posted by anotheridiot View Post
As far as the lathe, 230 for a new motor, 60 for a new drum switch for said motor, now 149 for an 8" chuck so I can make my bead roller dies in one operation hopefully and not lose my center and dimple dies.
I need a rheostat 10kw switch - not cheap at $100 - but since I'm not 100% sure of what I need as for specs (and it's in the book coming with the controller) I have to wait on that.... wiring and other stuff I think I already have... maybe need a dryer/welder plug but outside of that.... all good.
in other news, the seller asked me if I had it running yetDoing it all wrong since 1966
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Originally posted by PHWOARchild View PostI use a Phase-A-Matic static converter on my Bridgeport and Clausing lathe. I have a dedicated plug, can't run both machines at once, but I generally work alone in the shop. I actually have 3 of them I got at an equipment auction years ago. 2 are new in the boxes.
Here's an explanation http://www.northamericaphaseconverte...nverter-works/
Let's see if I can give an adequate explanation as to the difference. The controller I bought works like a capacitor that can be variable in its timing thus allowing you to control the speed by pulsing the power going into the motor. The static phase converter is either on or off - there's no pulsing. Of course, once you start controlling the pulsing you also get another possibility - over volting - in HVAC, we often over-amp a stuck refrigerator motor to get it to work again (or melt it into a pile of goo).... say you need more then rated power to get a loaded materials belt going, you can over volt a motor (thus creating more heat and more power) with the VFD.... but again, with all that said, this is a low-amp converter so it is more fragile whereas the Static converter should be as robust as any typical motor.
there is, of course, a disadvantage with static converters. Just as you need 1 1/2 times larger capacity in the VFD to get the same rated hp from the motor; a static converter gives you up to 2/3 the rated power...Last edited by SuperBuickGuy; June 12, 2018, 10:51 AM.Doing it all wrong since 1966
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Interesting, just using two legs worth of power to spin two-out-of-three of the windings in the 3 phase motor, w/ no apologies given. Presumably one leg gets a capacitor delay to have the timing right? Should still work in most cases. I'm guessing that the variable-speed unit uses capacitors for both legs, discharge timed and controlled by the speed unit somehow.
I note the above-linked info says don't use on motors older than 1965...? As well as heavier stuff or anything with a flywheel, which I don't get as I would have thought that would help. I wonder why the cautions then, unless there is simply no timing correction and it pounds the motor too weird. Well, Lord-knows I ain't no electrician.
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Am looking at picking up another press brake, 25 ton Amada from a friend/customer/partner in El Paso in a couple months which will leave me with an older 25 ton Verson that needs a home. Isn't there a guy around here that does metal fab such as building Drag Week cars and robots, who would possibly be the third individual on the site who could really use such a device, and lives about halfway between San Diego and there? A shame to waste the trip out empty....
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drop it off in Seattle, then you could haul mine to someone else my parents are headed to LA next week but I seriously doubt I could get them to haul it north
as for the legs - watch the video and the other one; I think it answers at least one of those questions.
Lathe is in its home
Last edited by SuperBuickGuy; June 12, 2018, 09:44 PM.Doing it all wrong since 1966
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I'm not familiar with that VFD (Variable Frequency Drive), but in my experience, the drive usually has the overcurrent protection for the motor.... so those switches, fuses and contactor would not be needed....Patrick & Tammy
- Long Haulin' 2008, 2009, 2010, 2011, 2012, 2014...Addicting isn't it...??
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they are redundant because the VFD does all of those functions - the issue, though, is the machine no long operates in a manner most are used to. In addition to that, the 10k pot acts as as a rectifier. Some motors operate better at 50 hz rather then 60 hz, thus the ability to change that frequency, easily (because you can do it from a menu as well) makes the machine easier to operate.
Or another way - telling someone to press the function/off rather then the big red button while the lathe is eating your arm.... but you are right, they aren't necessary.
to be honest, I don't like how those switches work - especially the on/off switch. The e-off button is missing. The bottom switch is for the coolant, again, it doesn't make much sense....Last edited by SuperBuickGuy; July 5, 2018, 06:20 AM.Doing it all wrong since 1966
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with the VFD, I can power stop the motor. either watch the video I posted or wait until next week when I get this wired. It's pretty darn amazing - it doesn't stop instantly but it also doesn't make more then 1/4 turn from e-stop.
What's even more cool about this. Say you're doing a threading operation - you can stop and reverse instantly. This also is damn cool and if it does work, I'm going to add it to my press brake. Being able to powerstop the flywheel and back up would be a very beneficial thingLast edited by SuperBuickGuy; July 5, 2018, 10:04 PM.Doing it all wrong since 1966
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