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  • 01 Dodge POS

    01 Dodge Stratus with the Mitsushitti 2.7. Kept overheating, coolant boils in reservoir, does not fill engine.

    Went thru the whole thing of changing the absolutely worst place for a plastic thermostat housing on an automobile, the stupid glue on the upper water outler breaks loose when the engine fills with steam yet again. Replace that, runs good for three days, coolant tank is topped off again, nothing in motor. Crack the bleeder to allow coolant to get back in engine.

    Went online to check the google mechanics out there and someone posted, I was told by the dealer to change the radiator cap and it fixed everything.

    so I pull the old cap, run it thru the Stant pressure pump and its popping at 3 pounds. To me its always let it blow low so I dont pop a radiator, but in this case, I guess it needs pressure to push the water back to the engine thru the little hose. Anyway, replaced the cap with the suggested 16 psi, run the motor, the upper radiator hose has pressure again, temp gauge coasts to halfway, finally have heat again.

    Three days later, engine full of steam again, coolant reservoir back full, crack bleeder, engine is full of steam.

    After all this, I think, I wasted my time with my seeing eye fingers trying to change that damned thermostat and most probably did something wrong. That little lead pellet is in the right place, its not dripping, but why does this engine keep pushing the water back to the reservoir and out of the engine?

    Oil has no sign of coolant contamination.

  • #2
    Did not see where you replaced the t-stat... Just a leak at the housing?
    Might replace it, if already did, maybe cut up the old one to slow the flow rather than going without?
    Sounds like my son's Toyota pickup with the V-6.. Replaced head gaskets helped a short time..
    Drove it a long time with a gutted t-stat in it.. Not much of a heater tho..
    Mechanic buddies say "Never heard of that problem until Deaf Bob shows up". Glad to know we are not alone..

    Hope you can figure it out. Toyota head gaskets are/were around $500

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    • #3
      I know nothing about these engines, would drilling a small hole in the t-stat help? I have been doing that on my sbf to get air out.

      some cars have crazy fill procedures like jack front of car up 3 feet then fill, could your's?
      http://www.bangshift.com/forum/forum...-consolidation
      1.54, 7.31 @ 94.14, 11.43 @ 118.95

      PB 60' 1.49
      ​​​​​​

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      • #4
        Originally posted by Deaf Bob View Post
        Did not see where you replaced the t-stat... Just a leak at the housing?
        Might replace it, if already did, maybe cut up the old one to slow the flow rather than going without?
        Sounds like my son's Toyota pickup with the V-6.. Replaced head gaskets helped a short time..
        Drove it a long time with a gutted t-stat in it.. Not much of a heater tho..
        Mechanic buddies say "Never heard of that problem until Deaf Bob shows up". Glad to know we are not alone..

        Hope you can figure it out. Toyota head gaskets are/were around $500
        yeah, thought the t stat was the problem so that was the first thing I replaced. What gave these engineers the idea that the top of the engine was a bad place for a thermostat and a water outlet where you could not see it to attach a hose to it should be down there? Most of these newer engines have this bleeder deal, my daughters fusion has a little piglet tail hose with a plastic screw plug in it to bleed air. For the most part I have always needed to rev the engine to get any flow to remove the air to get rid of the air pockets. This one I just dont get. It is impossible to even see the coolant level in this stupid white plastic tank since the coolant is the stupid gold crap, but there is a cold line. It has sat overnight after evacuating this steam and making sure water is in the block again, I guess I will try to suck out some of the excess that I figure needs to be there to get back to the motor.

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        • #5
          Originally posted by Russell View Post
          I know nothing about these engines, would drilling a small hole in the t-stat help? I have been doing that on my sbf to get air out.

          some cars have crazy fill procedures like jack front of car up 3 feet then fill, could your's?
          our 03 chevy van we found out we are supposed to remove the upper radiator hose to add the coolant to the motor so I will check into that. The radiator cap is on the reservoir and all the hoses are well below that so I am pretty sure its the highest spot, it just seems like something is keeping the water from just refilling the system and to me its steam pressure.

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          • #6
            That 2.7 is a flaming fricken turn. I had it in my 99 Interpid and after a while it had these weird episodes of overheating and it almost always did it when I was at a higher altitude (in the mountains rather than down here in the valley. That was AFTER the heads and engine were replaced under warranty. I hated that motor with the intensity of 1,000 burning suns. I did help the cooling situation tho, I had not realized that the air dam was missing so I got a scrap yard dam and it helped quite a bit...did not make it go away entirely but it helped.
            If you can leave two black stripes from the exit of one corner to the braking zone of the next, you have enough horsepower. - Mark Donohue

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            • #7
              Originally posted by JOES66FURY View Post
              That 2.7 is a flaming fricken turn. I had it in my 99 Interpid and after a while it had these weird episodes of overheating and it almost always did it when I was at a higher altitude (in the mountains rather than down here in the valley. That was AFTER the heads and engine were replaced under warranty. I hated that motor with the intensity of 1,000 burning suns. I did help the cooling situation tho, I had not realized that the air dam was missing so I got a scrap yard dam and it helped quite a bit...did not make it go away entirely but it helped.
              hence the term mitsushitti. I just never saw an engine replace coolant with steam, alot of steam, then you finally break whatever pressure is blocking the coolant from flowing and it takes in three quarts.

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              • #8
                Haunted!

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                • #9
                  so the only way I saw I could get all the air out of the system was to fill it again, keep pushing fluid into the motor and letting it bleed air, then closing the bleeder and sucking out the coolant down to the cold fill line. There is no hot full line but now there is definitely air in the reservoir and not in the motor.

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                  • #10
                    LH motors were not designed by Mitsubishi, they were designed in house by Chrysler with the 2.7's being built in Kenosha WI. A few common 2.7L problems are; water pumps and gaskets leaking into the crankcase, oil drain back (or lack there of), and excessive burnt sludge build up on internal components due to higher than average coolant temps. When I worked in the salvage biz I used to go to a local Dodge dealership that had crates of 2.7 cores stacked to the ceiling running the full length of the entrance wall in the service department. The service manager told me they were losing their asses on warranty claims, and Chrysler didn't want to fix them anymore. Soooo they began fabricating reasons why they couldn't/wouldn't fix the cars and started turning people away. The excuses were along the lines of: "You missed oil change(s), didn't add oil, added the wrong oil" "You didn't have your car serviced here" "You overheated your car". After that the shhiittt hit the fan and a class action lawsuit came out of it..

                    A friend of mine made a good living fixing those motors. The biggest problem he found was burrs, metal chips, and sharp edges left over from the machining process in/on the blocks and heads. Yes, they left metal shavings from the machine process in these motors... He'd pull the motors out, tear them down, and de-bur every area he could access to aide oil drain back to the pan. For the cooling system he'd glue the water pump and gaskets to the block with Gasgacinch. He used Gates pumps which were better quality and used better sealing gaskets. The head gaskets got a liberal coating of copper high tack. He never had a come back... And the motors held together just fine.

                    As far as getting air out watch this video, it works...

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                    • #11
                      Thanks for that video, at least the filling up from the little hose. Its been two days so I will go see what happened again, pull that hose and make sure it takes more coolant. I actually put a hose on the bleeder screw, not to suck on it, but I actually just dumped that back into the reservoir and let it cycle. It looks like I should have put that little hose on (what looks like) the over flow hose, but now I see its not an overflow hose.

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                      • #12
                        Where has simplicity and common sense gone?

                        (the motor, not anotheridiot!)

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                        • #13
                          well, since I dont have a little funnel, but I do have 20 ML syringes I use for filling holes on production parts, I put the syringe on the little overflow looking hose, pushed it in and got bubbles in the reservoir. So I added the funnel to the syringe and got another half gallon in there. Probably a day away from it going all backasswards and filling the motor up again. I guess the common sense goes to the engineers, as to add the coolant to the tiniest place to be able to get coolant in as slowly as possible. At least they dont make us fill it from the bleeder valve.

                          Finally feeling better about this, thanks to the peace and hair grease mechanic and tardis for finding it
                          .
                          Last edited by anotheridiot; March 8, 2018, 09:31 AM.

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