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E85 pontiac 461 stroker oil pump

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  • E85 pontiac 461 stroker oil pump

    Hello guys. Got the crank rods pistons and rings for my short block. Just wonderin what you poncho strokers are using for oil pumps?
    Mellings 54 is the only one I know of.
    I'm going over 10 to 1 number 16 heads running e85 and probably roller cam if it matters

  • #2
    Any recommendations guys? I ordered the 60 psi melling pump but some assurance would be nice. The shop that I got my assy from obviously tried to sell the most expensive pump they have and that was 80 psi with modifications.

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    • #3
      any hi-perf motor, i look for 10-15psi ABSOLUTE MINIMUM hot oil
      pressure at idle, and +10ps for every 1000rpm over that--
      so if you are at 15psi at idle, then 2000rpm=minimum 25psi,
      3000rpm=minimum 35psi, 4000rpm=minimum 45psi, etc...

      that 60lb melling is gret used it myself on the last 455 pontiac i did.
      make sure to run the steel pinned driveshaft with it.....

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      • #4
        copy that. I will check to make sure it has the steel pin when it arrives. thank you for the tip. Should i go with a high capacity pan as well?
        Last edited by pontiacpower; June 16, 2017, 10:05 AM.

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        • #5
          Originally posted by pontiacpower View Post
          .... Should i go with a high capacity pan as well?


          anytime you can fit in more oil, leaves you more cushion before sucking it dry at 6000+rpm in high gear, hah hah...
          if it will fit i sure would. remember to use the right pickup for the pan too....

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          • #6
            I got the 60psi melling pump. just gotta get a 7 quart pan and a pickup to draw that deep. Stupid pans are almost 300 bucks though.

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            • #7
              Originally posted by pontiacpower View Post
              I got the 60psi melling pump. just gotta get a 7 quart pan and a pickup to draw that deep. Stupid pans are almost 300 bucks though.
              How much are the smart ones?
              Last edited by cstmwgn; July 1, 2017, 04:26 AM.

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              • #8
                Originally posted by cstmwgn View Post

                How much are the smart ones?
                I hear the smart ones are cheaper but the stupid ones are MUCH easier to come by.

                Dan

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                • #9
                  Haha you guys are killing me. I washed the block with dawn to get the gunk out and sprayed it down and wiped with wd40. Should I get a cam before putting the short block together? Machinist said so because it's possible for a rod to hit the cam lobes if it's the cams not timed properly?

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                  • #10
                    Originally posted by pontiacpower View Post
                    Machinist said so because it's possible for a rod to hit the cam lobes if it's the cams not timed properly?
                    Well, there IS that. Also, put the block on it's butt (bellhousing mounting surface) and let gravity guide the cam in for you. It's MUCH easier than threading it thru horizontally and easier on the cam bearings which are easy to scrape. Don't drop the cam on the rear cam plug because you CAN pop it out or make it leak.

                    Dan's engine building tip of the day. I use that whenever I build an engine from the ground up - it is, of course, useless what the engine's in the car.

                    Dan

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                    • #11
                      Originally posted by pontiacpower View Post
                      Haha you guys are killing me. I washed the block with dawn to get the gunk out and sprayed it down and wiped with wd40. Should I get a cam before putting the short block together? Machinist said so because it's possible for a rod to hit the cam lobes if it's the cams not timed properly?
                      Did you also brush out all the oil passage ways? Moroso along with other vendors sells brush kits will all sizes bottle brushes with long handles so you thoroughly clean all the oil passages before you assemble it. You would use the same hot soapy water to clean them as you did the rest of the block. Sometimes the fine grit from machining needs a little stiffer bristle to get it out of the pores so I would also brush the cylinders real good.

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                      • #12
                        Okay so I used the hose and some dawn to wash the block out. Then after that I took wd40 and scrubbed every inch of the block because it flash rusted. I did this until I saw no more rust and now the bores look splotchy in the walls. I can post a picture if I don't make any sense. I was worried about oil passages because I could only get just the tip in (hehe) with my gun cleaning brush which I washed before using. I called the machinist and asked about surface rust in the oil passages and he said that doesn't matter. On race engines maybe but "the rust in the oil passages won't hurt the motor" what are your thoughts

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