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TIG & welding helmet suggestions

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  • #16
    I've been down the helmet road a bit myself. I had several fixed lens helmets over the years but with my now-crappy eyesight I needed all the help I can get so I bought a HF auto-dimming helmet. The lens worked OK but the suspension sucked and it wouldn't stay tight on my head. A couple of years ago I bought a Jackson auto-dimmer and the world is good. I still can't weld worth a darn but I can no longer blame the helmet.

    Dan

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    • #17


      The big one has really been out of sales for a while, We currently have the eastwood one.

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      • #18
        I should look into one of those (see what I did there!!??).

        Dan

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        • #19
          I've got a good Miller unit and it works great but you also need great lighting . If you can't see what your welding then it doesn't matter how great your helmet is .

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          • #20
            Originally posted by langleylad View Post
            I've got a good Miller unit and it works great but you also need great lighting . If you can't see what your welding then it doesn't matter how great your helmet is .
            That just says a bad helmet makes everyone a bad welder. The light you use when you weld is created by the arc and the helmet properly adjusted allows you to see it all. All real great lighting does with my welding is usually making my lens go dark when I am trying to see where I am starting. Thats why gas welding is done with a 6, arc usually around an 11 and tig closer to 13 due to the intensity of the light and allowing you to be able to see once the arc strikes.

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            • #21
              Originally posted by anotheridiot View Post

              That just says a bad helmet makes everyone a bad welder. The light you use when you weld is created by the arc and the helmet properly adjusted allows you to see it all. All real great lighting does with my welding is usually making my lens go dark when I am trying to see where I am starting. Thats why gas welding is done with a 6, arc usually around an 11 and tig closer to 13 due to the intensity of the light and allowing you to be able to see once the arc strikes.
              That's not what I'm saying , but I do agree that lighting can play tricks with the lens at certain angles . Good lighting makes a difference for me .

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              • #22
                Good lighting does make quite a difference in getting started in the right place. Even undarkened an autodarkening helmet is not easy to see through when its dark outside and you're welding inside a car in a garage.
                Central TEXAS Sleeper
                USAF Physicist

                ROA# 9790

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                • #23
                  I have to have my auto-dimming control all the way against the "lighter" stop as my eyes don't adjust to light well and even with the "light" setting I can barely see what I'm welding. I often get nice beads but NOT at the junction of 2 pieces of metal. I'm starting to weld in spots and I let the lens lighten between spots so I can reposition the torch in lieu of actually seeing. Old age is TOUGH!

                  Dan

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                  • #24
                    Originally posted by DanStokes View Post
                    I have to have my auto-dimming control all the way against the "lighter" stop as my eyes don't adjust to light well and even with the "light" setting I can barely see what I'm welding. I often get nice beads but NOT at the junction of 2 pieces of metal. I'm starting to weld in spots and I let the lens lighten between spots so I can reposition the torch in lieu of actually seeing. Old age is TOUGH!

                    Dan
                    that is part of playing with the dial for the shade. I know exactly what you are saying. I even got a welding helmet that had cheater glasses correctors you can magnify what I was doing, but until you dial back the shade to where you can still see the joint its always going to be a crap shoot.

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                    • #25
                      Originally posted by DanStokes View Post
                      I have to have my auto-dimming control all the way against the "lighter" stop as my eyes don't adjust to light well and even with the "light" setting I can barely see what I'm welding. I often get nice beads but NOT at the junction of 2 pieces of metal. I'm starting to weld in spots and I let the lens lighten between spots so I can reposition the torch in lieu of actually seeing. Old age is TOUGH!

                      Dan
                      Happens to me too. I think the next time I fire the welder up I'll try loosening my settings a tad. Perfect bead 1/8" parallel to the seam isn't very strong.
                      Ed, Mary, & 'Earl'
                      HRPT LongHaulers, 08, 09, 10, 11, 12, 13, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19.


                      Inside every old person is a young person wondering, "what the hell happened?"

                      The man at the top of the mountain didn't fall there. -Vince Lombardi

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                      • #26
                        Actually, it's VERY strong at that point - the bead will stiffen the area it covers considerably. However, it is NOT useful in joining the adjacent pieces of metal!

                        Dan

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