Project Tetanus

[JOES66FURY]

Drilling out a spotweld is easy, it goes relatively fast and with not too much effort.

Drilling out five-thousand big sloppy excessive spotwelds along yards of rusty flange in/out/& under is not easy and if-fact SUCKS, it absolutely sucks, and takes forever and is a horrible frustrating job and all you get when you're done is something that looks like you didn't do anything.

Yep.

Thank you for the clarification. Truer words have never been spoken. I could not have said it any better myself. However I will disagree, it does in fact make it look like you did something...it makes it look like you opened up with a few rounds of buckshot on a perfectly nice panel...yay! More welding! woohoo!

3 hours Sunday morning with a pounding migrane. 3 stinking hours of my life I will never get back and the trunk floor extension is STILL attached to the god blessed quarter panel. I have no less that 150 more to go.

I am going by the hardware store tonight and picking up a couple spot weld bits. Why? Because I have been using a small and large bit for the process and it takes fricken FOREVER.

[squirrel]

spot weld bits are good.

I've also ground a lot of spot welds. Kind of depends on the thing you're working on....but to get the inner rockers off the outer rockers on the Barracuda, I cut the metal away, just leaving a spot welded strip. I used the angle grinder to get most of the spot weld, just grinding on the weld itself, then tear the metal away with vise grips. some times didn't grind far enough, go back and grind some more. Then after it peels off, hit it with a flap disc to smooth the remains of the weld. This also leaves the metal intact behind the new weld.

I sure love your rants, you hit all the nails right on their heads!

[JOES66FURY]

spot weld bits are good.

I've also ground a lot of spot welds. Kind of depends on the thing you're working on....but to get the inner rockers off the outer rockers on the Barracuda, I cut the metal away, just leaving a spot welded strip. I used the angle grinder to get most of the spot weld, just grinding on the weld itself, then tear the metal away with vise grips. some times didn't grind far enough, go back and grind some more. Then after it peels off, hit it with a flap disc to smooth the remains of the weld. This also leaves the metal intact behind the new weld.

I sure love your rants, you hit all the nails right on their heads!

That's how I pulled the panels off the car but, I want to put the trunk floor extensions/quarter skin I cut from the blue car on piece by piece. It may be the long road but I think, with my skill level, it is best to disassemble the whole thing and patch it in piece by piece. So, once the extension is off the blue panel I'll affix it to Ol' patchy here then I will start with the skin. Hopefully my measurements are correct.

I am learning a lot. I mean, I've read about this stuff since I was a kid but actually doing it is a whole 'nother ball game.

Jason and I are bench building the D100 now. It needs a little patch here and there so, I figure by the time I get this turd all patched up and turn my attention to the pick-em-up I'll be wiser and more proficient.

So far nothing has been too difficult and things would go so much better if I would just slow down. I'm getting better at that and so is my work.

[DanStokes]

Good job, Joe. At least for DYI bodywork (I did have a little schooling on it) the best thing you can learn is patience. Somehow, it's also good to transfer that to the rest of your life. While THAT trick took a while I did eventually get there - most of the time. I'm much more content since I turned (mostly) that corner. And yes, future projects WILL go better as you apply the lessons from this one, but one of 'em had to be first (or, as ME says, "None of us are born knowing this stuff.") Rock On!

Dan

[JOES66FURY]

Good times friends, good times indeed!

Wife is out of work, denied disability. So, I am begging, borrowing and stealing shit to get this turd back on the road. Things are tight but we're making it work.

I got a lead on that manual steering box I wanted from a C Body forum I visit occasionally. Waiting to hear on the shipping costs from Alberta...

I need a water pump housing for a B/RB....I need to block off the inlet/outlet tubes but I cannot get mine out. Found a whole assembly for 130 online but, that'll have to wait a while. Might hit up a local junkyard that has some old MoPars to see if he has anything I can use.

Still have a couple hundred spot welds to drill out of the new panel.

School is out for about 3 weeks before the summer term starts so I'll have some time to work on the car a bit.

I've applied for...oh, I'd guess about 50 different jobs. Got 1 interview and it went well but I was not about to work 20+ hours of overtime a week and make 10K less a year than I do now. It's been rejection letter after rejection letter, it's frustrating. 23 years of experience and without a degree no one will give me a look AND if they do they want to pay me peanuts. I'm more than qualified for these jobs but without my degree I'm unemployable I guess.

Oddly enough, the wife has 2 Masters a Bachelors and cannot get work because she does not have experience AND if they do offer a job it is part time or pays peanuts.

Might start looking out of state. It'd suck to sell the house and probably the bikes, D100 and the Fury but...it's starting to look like...if we want to get ahead we need to step back....waaaaay back...

Oh well...enough of that bullshit....hope everyone is well.

[Russell]

I see help wanted signs around here, but I guess they pay peanuts. There might be some ok paying construction jobs around.

[Deaf Bob]

Joe, SSD always denies first try..
Keep at it!
Many deaf (not me tho) get it because they are too damn lazy to get a flipping job.. Shameful!
It took me 2 tries. Had all the paperwork from the doc. There is no mention of my deafness being a disability.
And SSD takes fordamnever to decide... Nice is you get back pay from your apply date.
They can be agravating as hell as most who work for the SS office (from my encounters) do not give a schit!
If you have savings that. Will be a negative. Why? Stupidity.

[JOES66FURY]

The guy with the manual steering box has yet to get back to me. Oh well....

I cashed in all my change and picked up an aluminum water pump/pump housing/inlet neck + hardware & gaskets for 130 bucks.


Wife got a job that starts this fall and it looks like next fall there is a position opening up at the High School down the street. She's the top contender for it. She'll be making much less than the Dept of Corrections was paying but she will be happier.

So....Now I am searching for a manual steering box. It's the same part # for 65 to 69 C-Body mopars. If anyone is out crawling the yards and spots one...keep ol Joe in mind.....

[squirrel]

I need to get a pumps and housing...hmmm...how much does your iron housing weigh? probably 10 lbs or so?

[74NovaMan]

Looks like there are some posibilities on Car-Part.com:

http://car-part.com/cgi-bin/search.cgi?userSearch=int&userPID=1000&userLocation=All+States&userIMS=&userInterchange=CF%3D&userSide=&userDate=1966&userDate2=1966&dbModel=60.1.1.1&userModel=Plymouth%20Grand%20Fury%20(1979%20Down)&dbPart=551.1&userPart=Steering%20Rack%2FBox%2FGear&sessionID=12000000015424908&userPreference=price&userZip=54016&userLat=44.9743000&userLong=-92.6899000&userIntSelect=1484622&userUID=0&userBroker=&userPage=1&iKey=

[JOES66FURY]

I need to get a pumps and housing...hmmm...how much does your iron housing weigh? probably 10 lbs or so?

yeah, plus or minus...it's yours if you want it...good for mock up anyway...

[JOES66FURY]

Looks like there are some posibilities on Car-Part.com:

http://car-part.com/cgi-bin/search.cgi?userSearch=int&userPID=1000&userLocation=All+States&userIMS=&userInterchange=CF%3D&userSide=&userDate=1966&userDate2=1966&dbModel=60.1.1.1&userModel=Plymouth%20Grand%20Fury%20(1979%20Down)&dbPart=551.1&userPart=Steering%20Rack%2FBox%2FGear&sessionID=12000000015424908&userPreference=price&userZip=54016&userLat=44.9743000&userLong=-92.6899000&userIntSelect=1484622&userUID=0&userBroker=&userPage=1&iKey=

NICE!

I got a few things to sell off, should be enough to pick that up assuming it is still there!

Thanks....

[JOES66FURY]

Bench Racing -

I'm tired, I'm too fricken busy, I have very little free time because of school and work and money is tight so...my dilemma got me thinking.

On one hand I have a rusted and patched up pile of shit Plymouth Fury. Both quarters are stitched together like frankenstein, I need to replace the trunk floor, repair the rear frame rails and the front floor boards.

On the other hand

- I have a good running 383 and a 727 that works fine.
- I've got some repop Dodge van seats, a nice B&M shifter, new dual exhaust, an autometer gauge ensemble,


And to top it off..... I also have this....













The truck is rust free except for the floorboards. Repops are affordable and easy enough to weld in given my terrible skills with a mig.


anyone thinking what I am thinking?

I know it is not the ideal short bed but, it is a solid truck. Could be a runner with that 383 in there... The Fury will never be what I want it to be. It is just too far gone and it will take too much time and money to get it there....But, for a few hundered bucks...I could have one heck of a bomber pick-em-up....

Thoughts?

[74NovaMan]

Your dilemma makes me want to go shopping. Nothing super tasty or close. Thinking donor car to put your motor and trans in or sell both and get something more solid.

https://losangeles.craigslist.org/sfv/cto/d/1967-dodge-charger/6632037228.html

https://losangeles.craigslist.org/lac/cto/d/1966-plymouth-fury-vip/6618980668.html

https://losangeles.craigslist.org/sfv/cto/d/1965-barracuda-formula/6630529047.html

The truck idea has merit though (assuming you want a truck and not a car). What do you do with the remains of the Fury? Perhaps sell it with the truck drivetrain sitting in it? Do you have space for 2 non operational vehicles?

I've done the rusty car thing and I can sure attest to the fact that starting with solid sheetmetal is absolutely the way to go.

[JOES66FURY]

car or truck makes no difference to me. I'd probably toss the 318 and 727 from the truck in the Fury and sell it non-op to the first sucker...er, uh, enthusiast to happen by...

I've looked at donar cars but the prices are way out in left field. That 66 Fury in Kingsman is about $4,000 over what I'd be willing to hand over for it. There is another 66 Fury that looks relatively rust free in Phoenix. Decent interior and no engine or trans but is still priced too high at $3600. I'm gonna keep my eye on it. Should the price drop about 1500 bucks I'll jump on it. Otherwise, anything I really want (early B body) is way too far outside my budget and, I've always like trucks so no harm no foul as far as I'm concerned. Parts for the trucks are not as hard to find nor as expensive as for the Fury either.