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Rebeldryver's '65 Impala SS Black Betty

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  • I'm interested in your thoughts on Vic JR vs the RPM .... I've been thinking about going the opposite way and going from the JR to an RPM air gap for better low end ...
    Whiskey for my men ... and beer for their horses!

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    • Originally posted by Bamfster View Post
      I'm interested in your thoughts on Vic JR vs the RPM .... I've been thinking about going the opposite way and going from the JR to an RPM air gap for better low end ...
      I did this. With a 406 and 4000 stall, on the street, it didn't matter.
      At the track, it may make a difference.
      Last edited by yellomalibu; April 14, 2013, 06:04 PM.

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      • Color me dumb, but I though going to an air-gap might eliminate the need for a carb spacer to keep things cooler.........no?
        BTW, this re-do is great!
        Last edited by oletrux4evr; April 14, 2013, 07:56 PM.
        Ed, Mary, & 'Earl'
        HRPT LongHaulers, 08, 09, 10, 11, 12, 13, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19.


        Inside every old person is a young person wondering, "what the hell happened?"

        The man at the top of the mountain didn't fall there. -Vince Lombardi

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        • Originally posted by oletrux4evr View Post
          Color me dumb, but I though going to an air-gap might eliminate the need for a carb spacer to keep things cooler.........no?
          BTW, this re-do is great!
          An aluminum spacer does nothing to cool carb. A one inch open spacer has been shown to increase hp in the top on almost all intakes. Also, the one inch open improves air fuel mixture with intakes with a divider plenum on almost all dual planes. You can help this without a spacer by cutting down the plenum divider.
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          • Didn't get much done today because I spent so much time at Pomona's swap meet.

            Carb is on. Fuel line connected. Didn't have a water neck gasket so it's not connected yet. I am going up to am 180* stat anyways. Connected heater hose, temp sensor for fans, and temp sensor for gauge. I need to do something different with the return springs on the carb. The old setup doesn't work.



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            • I wonder if that would work on my Corvette.... it heats too far, then comes down....
              Doing it all wrong since 1966

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              • Originally posted by SuperBuickGuy View Post
                I wonder if that would work on my Corvette.... it heats too far, then comes down....
                What would work?
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                • Originally posted by oletrux4evr View Post
                  Color me dumb, but I though going to an air-gap might eliminate the need for a carb spacer to keep things cooler.........no?
                  BTW, this re-do is great!
                  All of the Victor series of intakes have the "air gap" that the "RPM Air Gap" replicated in its design.

                  The plastic or phenolic spacers do the best job of insulating the carb from the heat of the manifold. Yet with a normal hood setup, everything under the hood will eventually get hot.

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                  • Originally posted by yellomalibu View Post
                    All of the Victor series of intakes have the "air gap" that the "RPM Air Gap" replicated in its design.

                    The plastic or phenolic spacers do the best job of insulating the carb from the heat of the manifold. Yet with a normal hood setup, everything under the hood will eventually get hot.
                    True. If you look at my heads, there is no exhaust cross over to heat the bottom of the intake, but it still gets hot under after a while. Carb will get pretty warm to the touch.
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                    • I thought I checked all the bolt holes on this intake when I bought it, but I must've missed the distributor bolt hole. Every used aluminum intake I have ever bought had one or two bolt holes that needed fixing. My old RPM has two fixed bolt holes.

                      First of all, it's not supposed to be fine thread. It's 3/8 16 thread. And, it was bigger than 3/8 fine thread too. Not good.


                      I was hoping the hole wasn't too big to Helicoil, so I got out the proper 25/64 drill bit for a 3/8 16 helicoil and it was slightly bigger than the current hole. Good news. I drilled it out.


                      Every home wrencher should have a least one Helicoil set. This size covers like half the bolts on an old Chevy. 5/16 and 7/16 would cover the other half.


                      After drilling I tapped the hole out.


                      Then screwing in the Helicoil with supplied tool.


                      Done.


                      Distributor hold down stud, nut, and washer.



                      Moving on. I pulled the fuel pump back out, and pulled it apart again. Although, it pumps fuel no problem, I need it to hold 6-7 pounds of boost. Pulling the top half apart, you could see the small black seal and washer. It has been bouncing around the top of the diaphram inside of the spring for who knows how long.


                      I put them back in their place in the top part of the pump and tapped a few notches to hold it there, then reassembled it.


                      One other problem I discovered with the fuel system is the AN fittings on the line between the hard line and fuel pump had been rubbing on one of the bolts engine mount on the frame.


                      This was soon to be leaking gas every where.


                      A little taste of the upcoming fuel system changes. Well, this is all I got done tonight.
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                      • how did you get the heli-coil to stay in place?

                        that's scary - the AN fitting wear - good catch!
                        Doing it all wrong since 1966

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                        • Agreed on the AN fitting. Wow, that was close.

                          Its interesting what you find when you go through a car.
                          I'm still learning

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                          • Originally posted by SuperBuickGuy View Post
                            how did you get the heli-coil to stay in place?

                            that's scary - the AN fitting wear - good catch!
                            I just ran it down until it bottomed out in the hole. Do yours unscrew with the insertion tool?
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                            • HOLY COW - count your blessings Scott - that was a fire waiting to happen.
                              There's always something new to learn.

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                              • Originally posted by Scott Liggett View Post
                                I just ran it down until it bottomed out in the hole. Do yours unscrew with the insertion tool?
                                generally I take a drift or a punch and swedge the side of the heli-coil to get it to stay - that said, it's steel in aluminum - give it a month and it'll self-adhere to the side so no worries
                                Doing it all wrong since 1966

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