The Silver Buick's well Silver Buick!

[STINEY]

I just became the owner of an '83 1-ton quad cab chevy truck that apparently had DUAL air injection pumps on its 5.7.

Anyways, there are 2 of them with stuck shafts that I have no use for. I'll send them to you free of charge if you think you can use them or their pieces?

Just let me know.

[TheSilverBuick]

Hello Stiney! I'll take them! I'll send you a PM.

[DanStokes]

Hi Randal! Haven't heard from you for a while - hope all is good. I stumbled across an AI pump as well - PM me you address if you want it. I also have the gulp valve if you want that. Off one of the Chevy sixes, I think.

Dan

[TheSilverBuick]

Hi Dan! Yup, busy with work, family and getting stuff sorted for free time automotive stuff. I'll send you a PM!

[STINEY]

Hello Stiney! I'll take them! I'll send you a PM.

They are on the big brown truck heading west as we speak.

[TheSilverBuick]

You're awesome! PM me some Paypal details or an address to send you a check for at least shipping!

[TheSilverBuick]

Thanks again Stiney! They showed up yesterday.

[TheSilverBuick]

The car has been more or less parked since February because the clutch fork pivot pin backed out, stiffened up the clutch pedal and I didn't want to drive it with the throwout bearing loaded up on the pressure plate. It comes loose two or three times a year, typically in winter, which I think is a result of driving it when cold, allowing it to come loose. I think the steel scattershield must not shrink as much as the pivot, where the stock aluminum bellhousing would probably hang on to it better.

Anyways, it took a flat head screw driver to back the pin out and the angle into it around the transmission is less than ideal and gacked up the threads and it wouldn't back out anymore. So the car sat. I finally got up the motivation to pull the transmission to change it out, but my working conditions now suck (I miss my old shop!) and looking at it I convinced myself I could just slide the transmission back ~1.5 inches and I'd be able to change it out. Every part of the job sucked, but I got it done, lock tighted the outer piece, and then at the suggestion of a circle track racer friend of mine put a bit of ultra black RTV across the face of the bushing and in the threads inside the bellhousing. Hoping it stays in place now!

[squirrel]

like you need to weld something in there, when it's all the way apart?

How much does concrete cost up there?

[TheSilverBuick]

I just got a quote for a 20'x40' pad, 4" thick, all dirt work, etc, $5,600...... But I've committed to the wife for stucco repair and re-painting the house first =(

[TheSilverBuick]

It seems my turn signal fuse problem has returned. It popped two fuses, I cannot find any shorted wires around any of the lights, and now it doesn't pop the fuse, but no turn signal either. The flasher unit is good, I swapped the emergency flasher and blinker flasher and both perform fine in the emergency flasher spot. I did a harness shake test and think it may be the turn signal switch or part of it's harness that is the issue as it seemed to blink a couple times then stop (either that it was my imagination...). So I have the column 90% disassembled for changing out the switch. Not seeing anythink obvious yet, but hoping swapping it out works for me.

[DanStokes]

I just got a quote for a 20'x40' pad, 4" thick, all dirt work, etc, $5,600...... But I've committed to the wife for stucco repair and re-painting the house first =(

Let me make a suggestion: If you make it 5" thick it'll support a 2-post hoist - at least, mine said you need a 5" slab. Even if you don't do the whole thing 5" thick you could pick out the spot most likely to get a hoist installed and dig down an extra inch or two. Can't hurt and might save hassle later on.

Dan

[STINEY]

It seems my turn signal fuse problem has returned. It popped two fuses, I cannot find any shorted wires around any of the lights, and now it doesn't pop the fuse, but no turn signal either. The flasher unit is good, I swapped the emergency flasher and blinker flasher and both perform fine in the emergency flasher spot. I did a harness shake test and think it may be the turn signal switch or part of it's harness that is the issue as it seemed to blink a couple times then stop (either that it was my imagination...). So I have the column 90% disassembled for changing out the switch. Not seeing anythink obvious yet, but hoping swapping it out works for me.

In my '80 van I had an intermittent signal fuse popping issue. It had a tilt column - which is rather useful in those vans for entry/exit leg clearance and got utilized with each entrance/exit - and if I let the tilt flip to the FULL upwards position it would blow a fuse nearly every time. Keep it off the last notch and all was well.

It did this for YEARS. Not usually a problem until someone else drove it. Funny the things we get used to.


That is a pretty darn reasonable quote for cement placing of that size. Stucco repair already? Isn't that house a young one? Of course I need to keep in mind the dryer vent fiasco.....lol.

[SuperBuickGuy]

I just got a quote for a 20'x40' pad, 4" thick, all dirt work, etc, $5,600...... But I've committed to the wife for stucco repair and re-painting the house first =(

paving is usually cheaper. that said, I wonder what footings would cost and a two-post lift (over the gravel).

[DanStokes]

My 2 post was $1700 delivered to the house (Pace Tools). I had to rent a Bobcat w/forks to unload it but the trucking firm showed up on schedule so I only had the Bobcat for a half day. The hoist thing is why I suggested that at least one bay of the slab be 5" thick which is easy if planned for.

I'm thinking the quote probably includes footings? I hope so as sooner or later you'll probably want at least a roof and then walls can't be far behind .

Dan