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62 Chevy II AF/X

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  • Originally posted by squirrel View Post
    thanks!

    Tinkering with the B pillar. I have no clue why this was piece cut out...it does not make sense.

    P.o. probably started
    to chop it then lost his nerve. Cool project, i'm weighing putting a leaf spring front in my '63 falcon.

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    • I think the PO just had no friggin clue how to work on cars...
      My fabulous web page

      "If it don't go, chrome it!" --Stroker McGurk

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      • floor work continues. It will be done one of these years....still a lot more to do in the back of the car.
        Attached Files
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        "If it don't go, chrome it!" --Stroker McGurk

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        • Thanks for showing your build pics, I love this stuff.
          Are you changing the wheel-base at all?

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          • Looks like I'll move the rear wheels up 9", and the front wheels 4", for a wheelbase change from 110 stock to 105
            My fabulous web page

            "If it don't go, chrome it!" --Stroker McGurk

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            • Hm - I moved my rear axle back 1" for tire clearance - I'm doing it wrong as usual.
              There's always something new to learn.

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              • No, you're right, I'm just building a wonky car! Played with front springs and measuring steering clearance. It might work. Maybe. The car will probably sit close to level. The front springs sit more flatter now after taking out two more leafs, and my guess is with another 400 lbs or so up there, they'll move down to about half their travel, which is what I want. I may add the shortest leaf back in, if there's some reverse arch in the middle of the spring with all the weight on it. Might take a couple weeks to get the drag link, when I do I'll see if I can make it fit without having to open up the pan notch any more. Fingers crossed. I'm also working on the trans crossmember, it needs some modification in the middle...moving the mount holes back a couple inches...pics later when I get it all figured out.
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                Last edited by squirrel; January 9, 2014, 11:44 AM.
                My fabulous web page

                "If it don't go, chrome it!" --Stroker McGurk

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                • couple pics. Found a driveshaft loop, will weld to floor. Made front down bars, tacked in place.
                  Attached Files
                  My fabulous web page

                  "If it don't go, chrome it!" --Stroker McGurk

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                  • Looks great Jim catching up on the build!
                    Escaped on a technicality.

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                    • thanks! Got a box in the mail today...actually, a few boxes. I got the linkage and carb parts, so I can put the AFBs on the 55 and see how they work. And I got the header parts.
                      Attached Files
                      My fabulous web page

                      "If it don't go, chrome it!" --Stroker McGurk

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                      • Damn, that looms like a nice header kit. If only....

                        What is the plan for wiring? I see none and I'm looking a that situation on my Fox project.
                        Drag Week 2006 & 2012 - Winner Street Race Big Block Naturally Aspirated - R/U 2007 Broke DW '05 and Drag Weekend '15 Coincidence?

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                        • Wiring...probably will just run individual wires where they need to go, using the original switches for lights and ignition. I'm trying to mostly restore everything original that is staying in the car....and removing as much as I can, and still leave basic street driving functionality. I played with carbs and linkage and plumbing today, putting the 750 AFBs on the blower motor (in the 55). I'll swap this stuff over to the Chevy II when the time comes. The carbs work ok, not much difference in AFR compared to the holleys. They weigh ten pounds less (total for both), and they look more older. I need to do a few more things...for example, replace the torx screws with slot heads...and see if I can tweak the metering rods/jets to get it to run a little leaner at cruise. I didn't have much luck leaning out the Holleys, we'll see how these work out. And I found a picture of the shifter I need! I'll probably have to make it, since they don't really exist in real life, it's a very rare part. 1966 B&M Turbo Hydro shifter.
                          Attached Files
                          My fabulous web page

                          "If it don't go, chrome it!" --Stroker McGurk

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                          • Email B&M stranger things have happened, there might be one collecting dust

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                            • If you do make one please take lots of pictures.
                              http://www.bangshift.com/forum/forum...-consolidation
                              1.54, 7.31 @ 94.14, 11.43 @ 118.95

                              PB 60' 1.49
                              ​​​​​​

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                              • Jim - I bet you can find a combination of spring, jet, needle that makes the cruise AFR more reasonable and doesn't suffer lean tip in bog.

                                I agree on the look - and know that's important to you - hex head holley bowl screws on a "period correct" car just don't get it - hopefully you can find the proper slot or even phillips screws for the carters at mcmaster or a similar place.

                                I know it's not period correct - but the wiring kits from rebelwire, speedway, American auto wire, ron francis, etc are universal and are a bargain compared to painless. They come with the modern fuses you can find anywhere - I recently searched for the old glass tube fuses and was not having much luck - I'd hate to be in need of some on dragweek.
                                There's always something new to learn.

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