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62 Chevy II AF/X

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  • I think I've already concluded that the engine is not perfect, but it's good enough.
    My fabulous web page

    "If it don't go, chrome it!" --Stroker McGurk

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    • Probably some little head slapper..

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      • Originally posted by squirrel View Post
        The funny thing is that the car has not had antifreeze in it since before I installed those spark plugs. It's gray ash from oil burning, as best I can tell. I've seen plugs get spotlessly clean because of antifreeze, leaking in through an intake gasket failure.
        According to this it's ash fouling either by bad fuel or oil burning... as you're not seeing oil loss... How to read a spark plug



        How do I "read" a spark plug?
        Being able to "read" a spark plug can be a valuable tuning aid. By examining the insulator firing nose color, an experienced engine tuner can determine a great deal about the engine's overall operating condition.
        In general, a light tan/gray color tells you that the spark plug is operating at optimum temperature and that the engine is in good condition. Dark coloring, such as heavy black wet or dry deposits can indicate an overly-rich condition, too cold a heat range spark plug, a possible vacuum leak, low compression, overly retarded timing or too large a plug gap.
        If the deposits are wet, it can be an indication of a breached head gasket, poor oil control from ring or valvetrain problems or an extremely rich condition - depending on the nature of the liquid present at the firing tip.
        Signs of fouling or excessive heat must be traced quickly to prevent further deterioration of performance and possible engine damage.
        • 1. Normal Condition. An engine's condition can be judged by the appearance of the spark plug's firing end. If the firing end of a spark plug is brown or light gray, the condition can be judged to be good and the spark plug is functioning optimally.
        • 2. Dry and Wet Fouling. Although there are many different cases, if the insulation resistance between the center electrode and the shell is over 10 ohms, the engine can be started normally. If the insulation resistance drops to 0 ohms, the firing end is fouled by either wet or dry carbon.
        • 3. Overheating. When a spark plug overheats, deposits that have accumulated on the insulator tip melt and give the insulator tip a glazed or glossy appearance.
        • 4. Deposits. The accumulation of deposits on the firing end is influenced by oil leakage, fuel quality and the engine's operating duration.
        • 5. Lead FoulingN Lead fouling usually appears as yellowish brown deposits on the insulator nose. This can not be detected by a resitsance tester at room temperature. Lead compounds combine at different temperatures. Those formed at 370-470°C (700-790°F) having the greatest influence on lead resistance.
        • 6. Breakage. Breakage is usually caused by thermal expansion and thermal shock due to sudden heating or cooling.
        • 7. Normal Life. A worn spark plug not only wastes fuel but also strains the whole ignition system because the expanded gap (due to erosion) requires higher voltages. Normal rates of gap growth are as follows:
          Four Stroke Engines: 0.01~0.02 mm/1,000 km (0.00063~0.000126 inches/1,000 miles)
          Two Stroke Engines: 0.02~0.04 mm/1,000 km (0.000126~0.00252 inches/1,000 miles)
        • 8. Abnormal Erosion. Abnormal electrode erosion is caused by the effects of corrosion, oxidation and reaction with lead - all resulting in abnormal gap growth.
        • 9. Melting. Melting is caused by overheating. Mostly, the electrode surface is rather lustrous and uneven. The melting point of nickel alloy is 1,200~1,300°C (2,200~2,400°F).
        • 10. Erosion, Corrosion and Oxidation. The material of the electrodes has oxidized, and when the oxidation is heavy it will be green on the surface. The surface of the electrodes are also fretted and rough.
        • 11. Lead Erosion. Lead erosion is caused by lead compounds in the gasoline which react chemically with the material of the electrodes (nickel alloy) as high temperatures; crystal of nickel alloy fall off because of the lead compounds permeating and seperating the grain boundary of the nickel alloy. Typical lead erosion causes the surface of the ground electrode to become thinner, and the tip of the electrode looks as if it has been chipped.



        Doing it all wrong since 1966

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        • as for the liquid issue - with water, sure, it cleans the combustion chambers very nicely - I know my situation was what it was (also, it's pretty normal for that cylinder to have trouble since the water passage is above it and that end of the gasket will fail eventually)... still, ymmv. good luck
          Doing it all wrong since 1966

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          • thanks....the interesting thing is only one plug was like that. Probably something iffy in that cylinder, although it seems to be fine right now.

            My fabulous web page

            "If it don't go, chrome it!" --Stroker McGurk

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            • I received my new copy of Hot Rod today and I read about your success at Drag Week , congrats Jim .

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              • thanks! I'm still waiting for it...will be hanging out at the mailbox today, or maybe stopping by a few newsstands

                My fabulous web page

                "If it don't go, chrome it!" --Stroker McGurk

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                • Of course you would be in Hot Rod! Really never was any doubt..
                  Congrats... You are really a man of vision! See something a certain way and built it..

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                  • thanks!

                    Anyways...my dear wife got me a Gear Vendors od for Christmas. I had the 1000 off coupon from winning my class...so it was almost affordable. I installed it, and figured out how to make it work with a couple switches and a relay and not engage when it's not supposed to, without using the computerized controller that came with it.

                    a few pics



















                    My fabulous web page

                    "If it don't go, chrome it!" --Stroker McGurk

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                    • look at that, Squirrel made it to 70s tech

                      lucky bastard
                      Doing it all wrong since 1966

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                      • uh....1960s tech. The same OD that was in that 67 Triumph (which I just sold).

                        thanks
                        My fabulous web page

                        "If it don't go, chrome it!" --Stroker McGurk

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                        • damn thats cool! both the wife buying you a car part, and the install
                          Hellinor- 2005 Mustang GT-Bolt ons, in need of a turbo

                          War Wagon- 1966 Bel Air Wagon-355 Crate motor, 700r4, flies pretty good for a brick...

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                          • Visions of Laycock-de-NormanVille....... looks right at home.
                            Of all the paths you take in life - make sure a few of them are dirt.

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                            • you might notice that I haven't installed the driveshaft loop yet...it was welded to the chunk of tunnel that I cut out, so I have to do some grinding to cut it free, then make some mounting tabs, and I'll probably just bolt the tabs to the floor. I also ordered some 3.89 gears, I think it will be just the right ratio...3.70 was not enough, 4.11 was too much. And the 3.89 will give me about 3.0 effective ratio in overdrive. Which is nice for cruising at 75.
                              My fabulous web page

                              "If it don't go, chrome it!" --Stroker McGurk

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                              • Very cool! As usual, great installation - you know I love nice backyard fabrication. It'll be interesting to see how that works out on the track AND on the road.

                                Dan

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