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62 Chevy II AF/X

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  • Eh, who wants to drive a '55 that doesn't have a blower and pair of carbs sticking through the hood anyways? =P

    I'm actually curious to see the course of your troubleshooting and solution finding because I consider it a great learning opportunity.


    I have one of these handheld LM-1 setups in a box if you'd like me to flat rate mail it to you to use on the Nova? Use it for some dialing in then remove it when you head out in September?
    Escaped on a technicality.

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    • Bill sent me one of those a while back, I used it on the 57 truck, but haven't put it on the 62 yet. I kinda don't want to put an unsightly O2 sensor bung on those nice old looking headers...and it runs pretty good as is. But thanks for the offer!

      I added a quart of oil, went for a drive, and the oil pressure is low and fluctuation in strange and mysterious ways. What fun. I pulled the pan off, nothing suspicious looking yet...

      My fabulous web page

      "If it don't go, chrome it!" --Stroker McGurk

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      • Yuck....did you happen to notice the fix for the Austin gassers oil pressure issue? I will be following along as always...I always seem to learn somthing useful in your threads
        If you can leave two black stripes from the exit of one corner to the braking zone of the next, you have enough horsepower. - Mark Donohue

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        • I wouldn't want to put it in those headers either! If I were to put a bung on it, I would go for the inside facing part of the tube after the collector flange, basically at the glass pack. Any pictures without the full exhaust would have it removed and even when on wouldn't likely stand out much.

          Loose or poorly sealed oil pickup tube sucking air?
          Last edited by TheSilverBuick; June 11, 2014, 09:41 AM.
          Escaped on a technicality.

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          • Pump all looks fine. I might try running a bit less oil in it, it's possible it's getting aerated or something....the pan I have has that notch in it, so the sump area is pretty small (although it flares out forward below the notch). The oil level with the recommended 7 quarts is above the notch, and when I dumped in another quart it was even higher. I'm grasping at straws. It kind of acts like a bad electrical gauge sender, but it's a mechanical gauge.
            My fabulous web page

            "If it don't go, chrome it!" --Stroker McGurk

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            • Feasible for sure. I ran that clear external oil line on my Firebird for a while (which eventually blew up...) and I remember the first time I fired the engine up I panicked because the aeration in the tube was BAD. My problem was due to too thick of oil and around 30*F temps. I drained it and put some 10w-30 in and the bubbles vanished.

              Even now, only in first gear, my Firebird has very funky oil pressure behavior. I am running an electric sender and it does behave like a short, but it only does it in first gear. Rock solid 50psi coming up on RPM (3,500+ rpm?), then bounces around down to 20-25psi until the shift, then steadies out at 50psi for every gear after that, to redline rpm. Has me thrown for a loop, but does it every time and it doesn't go to zero. I'm uncomfortably comfortable with it now (if that makes sense), but I wouldn't be on your engine. I hadn't been able to observe the clear line while driving to see if it was an aeration issue. I'm hoping to take some pickup measurements to make sure it's properly positioned in the sump and the o-ring that seals the pickup to the block is installed cleanly (I'll replace it when I have the engine apart). Only in first gear and it has me thoroughly confused. I'll let you know if I come up with anything funky in my OHC this weekend during tear down.
              Last edited by TheSilverBuick; June 11, 2014, 10:29 AM.
              Escaped on a technicality.

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              • I put it all back together, didn't change anything. I'll put six quarts of new oil and a filter in it and see what happens. I guess it's time to drive my old orange truck, it's been a while.
                My fabulous web page

                "If it don't go, chrome it!" --Stroker McGurk

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                • When in doubt, drive something else I'm known to do the same thing.
                  Escaped on a technicality.

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                  • uh, I had to drive something else to get to the store to buy oil so I could drive the same thing ;)
                    My fabulous web page

                    "If it don't go, chrome it!" --Stroker McGurk

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                    • I had fluctuating oil pressure in my 327... Was thinking spun bearing.. (not too saavy at the time).. When I pulled the pan, there was bits of the nylon collar in it from the shaft-pump drive... I'm sure you are using steel sleeves, either tacked or pinned to the shaft..

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                      • this one has a plastic sleeve, but there isn't any indication that the shaft could be moving or slipping. Gets full pressure when it's cold, it gets flaky when it's hot
                        My fabulous web page

                        "If it don't go, chrome it!" --Stroker McGurk

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                        • New gauge or an old one? If it acts really wonky, I would try another gauge first.

                          What's the history on the short block?
                          Last edited by BBR; June 11, 2014, 12:50 PM.
                          Life is short. Be a do'er and not a shoulda done'er.
                          1969 Galaxie 500 https://bangshift.com/forum/forum/ba...ild-it-s-alive
                          1998 Mustang GT https://bangshift.com/forum/forum/ba...60-and-a-turbo
                          1983 Mustang GT 545/552/302/Turbo302/552 http://www.bangshift.com/forum/forum...485-bbr-s-83gt
                          1973 F-250 BBF Turbo Truck http://www.bangshift.com/forum/forum...uck-conversion
                          1986 Ford Ranger EFI 545/C6 https://bangshift.com/forum/forum/ba...tooth-and-nail

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                          • Short block is a new combination of parts from different sources. None of the parts were ever on the same engine together. The gauge is a new SW "wings" (made in mexico) mechanical gauge. A different gauge was next on my list of stuff to try.
                            My fabulous web page

                            "If it don't go, chrome it!" --Stroker McGurk

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                            • Originally posted by squirrel View Post
                              this one has a plastic sleeve, but there isn't any indication that the shaft could be moving or slipping. Gets full pressure when it's cold, it gets flaky when it's hot
                              Exactly... Motor ran fine cold.. Warmed up, it was different.. Best I could figure with a mechanic friend who I worked for to get free help was the shaft moves around on the pump making the guage flutter.. Put a shaft with a tacked on sleeve in it motor been good for 20 + years now.. I also use the steel sleeves on our derby motors when we tore one down and found that plastic sleeve broken.. I know.. Sounds too simple...

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                              • The plastic sleeve is new, it is working fine, they work fine in billions of Chevys for decades...

                                Anyways, I put 6 qts of new oil in it, new, filter, and went for a drive. It's working fine. Huh. Went all the way to Bisbee (about 20 miles each way), showed the car to my friends there who helped me round up parts for it.

                                Road trip video

                                My fabulous web page

                                "If it don't go, chrome it!" --Stroker McGurk

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