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**JOES66FURY** · March 10, 2012, 05:12 PM

Might even be cheaper if you do some of the prep work yourself...removing the grill, missors and trim and such.

**Bamfster** · March 10, 2012, 05:16 PM

Heck I'll even feather the chips, stirp the flakes and repair a few cracks on the rear fenders. I'm ok with the body work and prep .... I just relly suck at the sprayin' part.

**SuperBuickGuy** · March 10, 2012, 09:40 PM

Originally posted by Bamfster View Post

Heck I'll even feather the chips, stirp the flakes and repair a few cracks on the rear fenders. I'm ok with the body work and prep .... I just relly suck at the sprayin' part.

sucky part is if you do that, the paint will probably flake off on your way home from the paint shop. It's the primer that caused the problem, and it has to be taken off....

that said, white is pretty easy to put on a car.... certainly is a good first color to learn.

**Scott Liggett** · March 11, 2012, 12:25 AM

Cool truckster. Paint is typical of GM of that era. I remember everyone slamming those into the dirt. I've even seen ones with the hitch sticking through the middle of the tailgate.

**Bamfster** · March 11, 2012, 08:13 AM

Originally posted by SuperBuickGuy View Post

sucky part is if you do that, the paint will probably flake off on your way home from the paint shop. It's the primer that caused the problem, and it has to be taken off....

that said, white is pretty easy to put on a car.... certainly is a good first color to learn.

So what your saying is that it'd be a good candidate for media blasting? I wonder if they could even do that without TOTAL dis-assembly.

I'd actually like to add a cowl hood to it, I think they look better with those ....

**JOES66FURY** · March 11, 2012, 08:43 AM

99-08-51-001B MAR 11 Body - Paint-Less Dent Repair Recommendations

Automotive Recalls and Technical Service Bulletins for 1992 Chevy Truck G 30 Van V8-379 6.2L DSL VIN C FI. Provided by ALLDATA

http://www.alldatadiy.com/TSB/11/921144fa.html

GM will cover repainting of vehicles with such delamination problems, but only up until they're 5 years old. This is why GM released technical service bulletin #231054 which allows dealerships to handle such problems on a "case by case basis to give goodwill adjustments to customers".

Paint Cracking, Fading, and/or Peeling - ThirdGen.Org

http://www.thirdgen.org/paint-crack-fade-peel

Q: Why does the paint on my car seem to fade/crack/peel so easily?A: Up through the 1987 model year, F-cars were built at two different assembly plants. One was Norwood, Ohio and the other was in Van Nuys, California. The plants both built the two F-cars identically, except with respect to the paint process.Since before the 3rd generation F-cars were started in late 1981, the Van Nuys plant was forced to use a water-based enamel paint because of the very restrictive CA laws enforced by the CARB (California Air Resources Board). This water-based paint was very different from the solvent-based paint used at Norwood. Another difference was the way the paints were applied. Because it was mostly non-polluting, the water-based paint at Van Nuys could be sprayed on by a conventional spray-gun technique. There were no volatile solvents (only water), and whatever paint did not stick to the cars (overspray) was caught by air filters.Starting with the 3rd generation models, Norwood began using a much more sophisticated paint application mechanism called a Turbo Bell. The Turbo Bells were high speed (30K RPM) turbines that literally atomized (fogged) the paint so very little solvent was required (much less than with conventional spraying techniques). The Turbo Bells dispense a cone shaped fog of electrically charged high-solids enamel. This fog would be up to 55% solid paint, with volatile organic solvents as the carrier. The charged paint particles would be attracted to the vehicle body, which was also electrically charged (with opposite polarity from the paint) so that the paint particles would attract and stick. Very little overspray would result from this process, since the high-solids paint fog would be attracted directly on to the vehicle by the electric charge. The carrier solvent would evaporate, and was drawn into burning stacks where it would be incinerated.The Turbo Bell painting technique is now used by virtually all manufacturers and combined with solvent-borne enamel like that used at Norwood, results in the highest quality paint jobs. In 1987, Norwood turned turned out some of the finest quality paint jobs in the world. By comparison, the water-based paint would be much more dull, thin, and prone to problems.The much stricter CARB emissions laws did not allow the use of solvent borne paint at Van Nuys. That meant that the paint jobs coming out of Van Nuys could never be as good as those from Norwood. The water based paint was not as hard, or shiny as the solvent based paint used at Norwood. Then came some real problems. Due to the ever-tightening CARB standards, Van Nuys was forced to give up the spray guns and adopt the Turbo Bell paint application system for the '86 model year. You would think that this sounds good, but the problem was that the Turbo Bell system was designed for solvent based paint and not the water-based paint mandated by CARB at Van Nuys. There was a period where they had not really sorted out how to re-formulate the water-based paint and primers to work with the Turbo Bells, and this resulted in many problems especially during the '86 model year. It took several years for some of the problems to be solved.You can tell where your vehicle was built by looking at the 11th digit of the VIN. If it's an "N", then the car was built at Norwood, if it's an "L", then the car was built at Van Nuys. Another interesting difference (although there's no concrete evidence) is that cars which were built at Norwood had the top of the cowl painted over in flat black, while vehicles built at Van Nuys left this area body colored.The Norwood plant was closed after the 1987 model year finished out, as GM had decided that F-car production could only sustain a single plant, and the Van Nuys plant was the more modern of the two. Also, Van Nuys was a larger plant, and had only a two level conveyor system rather than the complicated 5-level system used at Norwood. The more constricted Norwood plant only turned out about 41 vehicles per hour, while 54 per hour could be sustained at Van Nuys. Each F-car took about 20 hours to assemble completely from start to finish. Unfortunately the plant that remained open (Van Nuys) had the poorer quality paint process due mainly to the mandated use of water- based enamel. All remaining 3rd generation F-cars from 1988 through 1992 were built at Van Nuys. All 4th generation F-car production moved to Ste. Therese in Canada.It is also believed that paint problems in 1988-1992 models are a result of GM reformulating the primer base which was put on the cars. The primer was made to better stick to the sheet metal/fiberglass and better resist rust and corrosion. Unfortunately, it also resisted the paint from sticking to it - better known as "delamination". Thus, after a number of years, the paint starts to unadhere from the primer base even to the point where it will peel off in sheets. GM will cover repainting of vehicles with such delamination problems, but only up until they're 5 years old. This is why GM released technical service bulletin #231054 which allows dealerships to handle such problems on a "case by case basis to give goodwill adjustments to customers".

**Bamfster** · March 12, 2012, 05:50 AM

So yesterday I went by car toys to see what kinda deal they would give me on a stereo and speakers for the BWB. I have an alpine 4 channel amp that will be going in it already. $398 OTD .... I thought that was a bit pricey for an entry level Kenwood deck and speakers, so I did some online shopping @ Best Buy. The same deck and slightly upgraded speakers (from C/T's) .... $236 OTD. I'll still have to pick up the install kit @ car toys, but heck .... $140 cheaper. I'll stop by today after I get to work and pick it all up.

**milner351** · March 12, 2012, 05:56 AM

Crutchfield.com - check out the close out section of that site - even the sale prices usually beat retail by a lot - and they come with install kits free - wiring pigtails for speaker hook ups, install documentation etc. Love that place.

**Bamfster** · March 12, 2012, 04:22 PM

So I threw an ad up on C/L wanting to trade an old 2hp craftsman compressor for a truck tool box. A guy at a car lot here in town responded. I went over to his lot today, and he had a stack of truck boxes. He let me take my pick. Ended up with a full size below the rail box, w/locks and mountain bike front fork mounts for transporting bikes .....

SCORE!

**milner351** · March 12, 2012, 06:27 PM

I love it when a plan comes together! I hate paying retail for stuff like that - it seems truck beds are a very personal thing - some guys have to have caps / toppers, other guys never would, one guy has to have a tool box and plastic bedliner, another guy wouldn't have anything but line-x and a truxedo bed cover.

Great deal!

**Bamfster** · March 16, 2012, 01:54 PM

So I finally got some time today to work on it.

First up was the stereo/speaker/amp install. I had an older Alpine amp that I mounted under the driver's seat. I ran monster cables from the deck to the amp, and wired the speakers w/heavy gauge speaker wire that I got from an install shop. I actually found a correct color Metra install kit for the dash, along with the pocket that goes in place of the original stereo head unit .....

The speaker holes were already cut in the doors and rear side panels, so I just filled them w/ 6X9 rears and 61/2 fronts. When the P/O removed everything, it's obvious that putting it all back together properly wasn't important. Most every panel clip was broken or missing and several screws were MIA both on the doors and in the dash. Its a good thing I pack-rat extra clips, screws and nuts .... I needed a bunch of them. All of the rattles are gone now and when I close a door, it doesn't sound like pieces/parts are falling off.

Front speakers:

When my son came home for lunch, he was able to help me get the tool box mounted in the bed too ....

And here is a pic of my 1st big block:

**Bamfster** · March 21, 2012, 05:45 AM

So the tires on this pig aren't exactly the best. Shopping around, for an entry level all terrain, I'm looking at roughly $1100 for a set (6) mounted/balanced/OTD. A bit of searching on craig's, and I found a guy up in northern Colo. that has a set of Michelin LTX M/S (6) with less than 15k on them. He'll go $250 for all, and even mount and balance them if I can meet him after the shop he works at closes. Of course it's all contingent on whether or not the tires are as he described ....

**milner351** · March 21, 2012, 06:07 AM

Michelins are great tires - he's giving them away at that price - I hope they are as described. LRE tires don't come cheap!
Used to be able to get Liberators at walmart for abut $85 a piece.... not anymore!

I paid about $750 for four long trail TAs - 265/75 -16.

**Bamfster** · March 21, 2012, 06:11 AM

Pricing that tire at Discount, $208 per tire. I've run these on a bunch of trucks and it is my favorite. Good all around traction and they last a good long time.

**milner351** · March 21, 2012, 06:40 AM

Hope that craigslist deal works out for you- that would be a MAJOR WIN! even if they're at 50% tread depth and you can get a couple years out of them....

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