Mary's 40 Ford coupe

[DanStokes]

Probably a good plan to make a heat shield between the exhaust and the master. Cheap insurance.

Dan

[silver_bullet]

The lines look great Ed!! I'm agreeing with Dan on the heat shield...It looks a bit tight and I'd hate to see you have any brake issues...

[pintoboy77]

Have you gotten the car back from media blasting yet Ed.

[milner351]

Great looking Lines Ed - I see you're aircraft induced perfectionism rolls over to plumbing... nice work!

[oletrux4evr]

Thanks guys......
I'm planning on making a shield for between the exhaust and the master, as well as where the lines pass through the 'x-member'.
I went ahead and pulled the trigger on the bolt-on kit from Speedway.......seems to be a great fit.





Working today on making the axle 'offset' blocks to center it in the fender opening, and perhaps get to setting the pinion angle. The car won't be back for over a week or so, and it's nice not to be rushed. More to follow.

[pintoboy77]

Looks cool Ed nice set up. Got to love the holidays seems to get some progress done or aleast you have more time to work on things. Good Luck!

[silver_bullet]

Looks Great Ed...glad the brake kit worked... 10 degrees, unheated garage.. thinking of insulating garage when we do the addition... then maybe I will get more done...

[oletrux4evr]

I hear ya....I insulated mine when I finished it, but failed to make provisions for heat/cooling......I really regret that, but don't see a practical way to fix it other than the ole trusty propane heater. It stays between 40 and 50 just with the residual heat from the house, but everything out there is cold....parts, tools, hardware.......not complaining though, I remember the "laying under the car in the gravel driveway when it was wet and 40*or less" days......

[DanStokes]

I'm trying to wipe that from my memory - which is getting easier with age. I've been heating with a propane "daisy" heater and it's sorta OK but a buddy of my friend Dave (runs the repair shop up the street) is set to come out in a week or so and put in the chimney for the shop hanging heater. Then it's set the big propane tank and turn up the thermostat!

Dan

[pintoboy77]

I used to heat with kerosene and then I ran a gas line to the garage and installed a unit heater. At the shop I used to heat it with waste oil and then I decided to get rid of that so I put in a propane unit heater in about 3yrs ago. Both where the best moves I ever made.

[DanStokes]

I hear ya....I insulated mine when I finished it, but failed to make provisions for heat/cooling......I really regret that, but don't see a practical way to fix it other than the ole trusty propane heater. It stays between 40 and 50 just with the residual heat from the house, but everything out there is cold....parts, tools, hardware.......not complaining though, I remember the "laying under the car in the gravel driveway when it was wet and 40*or less" days......

Ed - might look into a Mini-Split. The compressor goes outside and the unit in the shop would look sorta like a room AC. We use one in ME's violin studio and it works great. Ours does both heat and air - the heat, of course, is electric. Several companies make them.

Dan

[milner351]

I'm only 42 and don't work in the cold anymore, hurts too much maybe I'm just a sissy.

I put a radiant hanging natural gas heater in the home garage, and a 185,000 btu clean burn waste oil furnace in the shop - both were ebay scores way way way under retail, and some of the best purchases I've ever made.

Just used the radiant heater over the holidays working on refinishing some habitat re-store scores
- figured out if you treat old corian counter top material like fiberglass - you can fix just about blemishes - 150, 400, buff
- like new!
double sink top for $30! ;-)

[oletrux4evr]

All great ideas guys, thanks.
Got the 'offset' plates made to move the rear axle forward about an inch, but as usual, that revealed another slight problem. The parallel leafs have a center through-bolt that holds them together as well as pins the axle to the proper position (centered). My u-bolt plates have a nice 3/4" hole that clears that bolt on the bottom. Problem is that I now need to make another 3/4" hole about 1" aft of the original so the plate can move forward too.........oh, since the bottom of the shock mounts to that plate, I'll have to make some spacers to move the top shock mount forward also......so, I'm off to the store this morning for a bigger bit, and something to make the spacers with.....love it!

[milner351]

If you don't need at least one new tool for a project, it aint worth doin.

ha!

Keep on keepin on! this is going to be one sweeeeeeet ride.

[pintoboy77]

Can't wait to see the body when you get it back Ed.