This chart shows zinc levels for Lucas products. This one bottle with 4.5 qts of oil increases the zinc level to around 3500 ppm. Hopefully this will prevent any more lobe loss.
I am seriously considering running the Hot Rod oil in this car from now on.
MY opinion - once you get by the break-in it will be less of an issue. On my flat tappet stuff with decent spring pressure - I use 8oz of CompCams break-in lube with each oil change.
I've had good luck with a can of GM EOS and VR1 upon start-up then switch to just VR1 after the first oil change. I put cams in with Isky moly lube (not sure of their brand name on that) - I coat the lobes and the lifter faces. The Delta cams I installed in the Camaro with their flat tappets (I had both hydraulics and solids at different times) held up great and I doubt they feature the highest of technology.
We use zinc oil in our derby motors.. They get real hot.
Then I like to run them cold afterwards to recoat surfaces that heat strips..
Used 1 gallon of Power Punch in one old caddy motor.. It dripped off the end of the dipstick like water when it was real hot..
Zinc based oils are worth it to us.
The start up was not without issues. The headers glowed red until I bumped the timing a skosh, the new speedo cable got against the exhaust and melted part of it, and our heater core bypass hose is causing it to run warmer than it did before.
The list to get it road worthy:
-> Fix reverse lights - I connected them incorrectly and they are on all the time. lol
-> Top off diff fluid
-> Add the tablets to the coolant to stop head stud seepage, which was much less this time. Just a couple of drips.
-> Figure our why our fuel pressure went from 6 psi down to 2-3 psi. Didn't seem to change how it ran though....
-> Monkey with the mechanical advance
I am sooooooo happy that it worked this time!!!! Yeeeeeessssss!!!!
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