Took the shaft to a shop in Goldsboro. They said the rear yoke needed replacement, and suggested 2 new joints. $166.11 later there is much less vibration.
Last fall I swapped out the driveshaft in my 66. I found out the aluminum driveshaft out of a 94 Explorer 4 door 2WD was a perfect match. I don't know if it was my imagination or what but I swear it seemed smoother even at 35 mph
Changed the rear shocks last week. The Motorcraft (original? ) were wasted. I put the KYB agx adjustable shocks I had on the 89 they only 14 ish years old hopefully it will help with the wheel hop / tire shake.
I orderd a clutchtamer from weedburner, Hopefully it will keep the stock parts safe, and maybe make the car consistent, I think it would be fun to bracket race it.
Went to Roxboro Motorsports Park this afternoon got there late it was free test and tune, a ton of people came out. I only had time to make 3 passes. It spun the first two my last pass was better. I think this is my frist 1.XXX 60' and did it just make it, and new PB. 1.999, 9.077 @ 77.45
Oh and I meet the PO^2, he said the car's name was Elmo, he said he would like to have Elmo back. I told him I would sell it for what I had in it. So we will see if Elmo goes home.
Driver still needs more work. I am going to try to plot out the 4 link and maybe someone can point me in the right direction.
Not many cars there tonight could have made as many passes as you wanted. I made 12, three were in the 8.90's. So I got a new personal best. I am still having to take it easy off the line to keep from spinning the DRs to much.
Nothing quite rocks like taking your ride down the track!
There's something about going out and seeing all of the big talkers go quiet, and the timeclocks starrt talking. Isn't that awesome? It tells you what's right and what's wrong (to a point... my FWD VW runs 14.7's @ 99mph... so it tells me that I should get my crappy eurobox off the track until it's RWD!) but it's the ultimate playground. In no other place will you see genuinely fast stuff moving so slowly... idling around the pits....
Track was closed this weekend for snow. I cannot wait for them to be open on the next one..
99 mph out of a VW is not bad, my car is slower than that.
The next thing I am going to have to spend money I think will be a new battery. It starts great cold but has a hard time cranking at operating temp. I have an old resistance tester and it test weak, put the jump box on it and it starts with out issue, so I don't think its the starter.
Am I missing something or do I just need to quit being cheap and replace the battery? It's old enough to need replacement as well.
Not sure if these numbers are any good I am sure the shop floor is not level but maybe they are close. I can't reach to measure the pinion angle while it's on the ground have to do that another day
IC should be just below the center of mass in the car. Usually, that point is about where the crank meets the flywheel.... think of it this way - when you nail the throttle, you want to lift the car at its heaviest point... of course, there is more to it, but there's the nutshell.
My 2 cents is: getting a manual trans car to hood with drag radials is an exercise in frustration. They just have such a small window of hook vs. spin that it is difficult to be consistent. A pair of bias ply ET Streets or slicks will put a big smile on your face every time you dump the clutch. Even with marginal track conditions.
Comment