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210ºF Is The New 180ºF

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  • 210ºF Is The New 180ºF

    We´ve had nearly 90ºF here today and just for fun I used the Camaro to go to the BMW dealer.

    Not long into the run, on the freeway my temps started going up and the car was stumbling along.
    Got off the freeway and had to raise the fuel level in the front bowl, also turned the mixture screws out to one turn.

    Car runs much better but with elevated temperatures.

    Picked up the part at the dealer and set off home, temps are now at 210ºF, I´m used to 180ºF for water and oil.
    The transmission is getting there and on the way home did hit 210ºF.

    By now the car is running real bad and cutting out but will fire up again, had to do it several times in stopped traffic.

    I´ve already pulled the timing back to 14º, could I go even lower ?

    Don´t really know what to do next, I have a good aluminum radiator and an Edelbrock water pump which did seem to do better than the Weiand I took out.


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    The 3rd gens really suck when it comes to airflow through the radiator....

    Nearly forgot, the oil pressure, never seen it that low, could it be because I now use full synthetic ?

  • #2
    oil pressure goes down when temperature goes up.

    Retarding timing from the ideal setting usually makes it run HOTTER, not cooler.

    My fabulous web page

    "If it don't go, chrome it!" --Stroker McGurk

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    • #3
      What temp thermostat are you running? We have a simple restrictor in the Volvo which seems to be working well but if you have, say, a 195* F T-stat it might be messing you up. And I agree with Jim.

      Dan

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      • #4
        What kind of Transmission cooling? Radiator pressure cap? Anti Freeze? Something in your combo CHANGED to cause this.... I got spoiled, my junk always ran cool, no explanation why. Underdrove the accessories and axed the fan ENTIRELY for a junkyard electric just to tempt fate and rarely needed the fan. A few notes.... Aluminum radiators are not more efficient than copper, just lighter.

        Still sounds like a stuck cap or thermostat coupled with pure water as coolant. Exactly 210, err... 212.
        My hobby is needing a hobby.

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        • #5
          Another point on the aluminum radiator depending on the style of the core and fin size you could be be experiencing some air flow issues. What type of fan, standard, clutch, or electric, dual ?
          Pt 2010, Long Haul 2011,12,13,14,15,16,17, 18, 19, 23
          If you wait, all that happens is that you get older

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          • #6
            I'm using a 180 thermostat, dual 12" electric fans and GM coolant.
            The motor and trans have B/M coolers controlled with 180 thermostats.
            I had the timing at 16 before.
            The radiator is totally unrestricted, the motor and
            trans coolers sit further forward.
            The overflow tank filled to the hot level.
            The rad cap is a Griffin and has no info on it.
            I have another Griffin 16lb and two stock 15lb in the garage along with another 180 thermostat.
            I could try those out.
            The dual fans come on at 190.

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            • #7
              Also Anti Freeze is a corrosion inhibitor as well as a coolant accelerator and boiling point modifier. Look for white residue in the system. Early aluminum engines experienced a kind of "White Death" on straight water. Another reason I found "Pinks All Out" one of the funniest shows on TV. Also too much Anti Freeze reduces it's effectiveness too. I went to school for this kinda sh*t.
              My hobby is needing a hobby.

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              • #8
                We can't get mix it yourself antifreeze here just
                premixed coolant and I find the GM coolant is the best.
                There was some problems with mixing red and green GM coolants when they discontinued the green.
                I got all of my green out with flushing and everytime I drain the system when working on the motor I always add some new when I refill.

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                • #9
                  Running lean will increase operating temp quickly.

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                  • #10
                    Originally posted by Monster View Post
                    Running lean will increase operating temp quickly.
                    Why our derby motors run rich..

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                    • #11
                      Assuming you have a tool fetish (who doesn't?). Consider buying a cap tester or finding one to borrow. Then try the thermostats.
                      My hobby is needing a hobby.

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                      • #12
                        Originally posted by Deaf Bob View Post

                        Why our derby motors run rich..
                        Actually DB I was thinking of you and the 50cc Accel Pumps. I was getting flames from the stacks of the Lil' Red Express. Your zoomies would light up easier. Crowd Favorite points?
                        My hobby is needing a hobby.

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                        • #13
                          Originally posted by RockJustRock View Post
                          Assuming you have a tool fetish (who doesn't?). Consider buying a cap tester or finding one to borrow. Then try the thermostats.
                          Or just try the other caps and thermostat.
                          I have enough once used tools.....

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                          • #14
                            Try your caps and thermostat... pull and read your plugs... fatten up the mixture a bit and see what happens....easy enough to test the thermostat on the stove with a candy thermometer in a pan of hot water...
                            Last edited by silver_bullet; July 4, 2018, 03:05 PM.
                            Patrick & Tammy
                            - Long Haulin' 2008, 2009, 2010, 2011, 2012, 2014...Addicting isn't it...??

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                            • #15
                              Actually knowing the coolant is right leads me to believe the recovery isn't recovering. Try filling the system at the radiator cap when testing.
                              My hobby is needing a hobby.

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