That's how I was taught to properly attach a trailer. The tow truck driver at the junkyard taught me that..
He was an over the road trucker for many years prior. I'll take his word for it.
too long is easy enough to fix by simply twisting the chain... repair links in Dan's case, I'm certain is fine - problem is some people think repair links are those "carabiners" you see at your local quickie mart...
too long is easy enough to fix by simply twisting the chain... repair links in Dan's case, I'm certain is fine - problem is some people think repair links are those "carabiners" you see at your local quickie mart...
I'll keep my eyes open for those - hadn't noticed them but I'll wager you're right. Aluminum (at least run-of-the-mill aluminum) ain't gonna get it when things get exciting.
Aluminum carabiners or any carabiners, no no. A loose trailer once it gets going may (more-like will probably) whip back and forth and the shock will finish a carabiner off on the first whip. Thick steel at-least has a chance at absorbing that.
That whipping action is also part of the reason you cross the chains...the diagonal deal reduces the distance that the trailer hitch can travel back-and-forth. Cross 'em so that the X winds up directly under the hitch, a couple inches underneath, and that's your length.
1.. (most important in my opinion) is a dragging chain gets compromised. By grinding or heat
I saw the "safety chains" were crap, so I used my hooked chains. Taped them on so they do not come unhooked.
I now get why crossing chains is important.. Holds the tongue off the pavement!
Good post. I tow but not a lot. I have been cross connecting the chains, now I'll definately make sure I do. My chains have the threaded type hooks not the carabiners I always have a lock going through the hitch once it's closed too.
Oh I am sure my way is not best. I used zip ties to draw up the slack to keep them off the road. I know they will break under any load. But I knew I didn't want them to drag and I don't want to cut the chains shorter.
Oh I am sure my way is not best. I used zip ties to draw up the slack to keep them off the road. I know they will break under any load. But I knew I didn't want them to drag and I don't want to cut the chains shorter.
you're missing the biggest advantage of having correct-length chains - that it keeps the hitch out of the pavement in an emergency. Simply twist the chains to get the desired length before you attach them to the tow vehicle. It's also what Uhaul does.... and if there is ever a more risk-adverse company; I don't know it.
I tow a small 12' trailer daily for work, and yes I grease the ball.
One time, I don't remember the circumstances, but I towed something with a dry ball and the hitch on the trailer was also ungreased. After uncoupling, there were metal shavings/ filings on the ball.
I don't think the friction of not having a greased trailer ball would affect towing characteristics noticeably, but if done regularly, will cause premature wear.
...besides, it's fun to warn people to be careful about getting too close to the ball - dirty grease stains clothes. ...something like, be careful; I grease my balls. Keep a straight face and watch them struggle on how to react.
The twisting of chains is something I do because I've never gotten around to shortening them - and sometimes my business partner tows the trailer, and his receiver is further under his bumper than mine is. The chains would be too short for his truck if I made them the correct size for mine.
Crossing them, however, is something I thought people did only if their chains were too long. I hadn't given it much thought, but to cradle the trailer should it come off the ball makes perfect sense.
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