The Pontiac OHC Six

[TheSilverBuick]

Until I get a Firebird thread started. I washed the car today.

[Scott Liggett]

So, is this engine going to be neat and clean; or look like the rest of the ones in your cars?

[squirrel]

We need to sign Randal up for the Communications Electronics Basic Installers Course at Ft Huachuca, so he can learn to dress wiring

[JOES66FURY]

he can come work with my electricians or my com/nav guys for a few days...they will school him up right

[TheSilverBuick]

This car with no A/C or power steering, should be fairly clean under the hood. I plan on getting a new engine and front lights wiring harness for it. So that should loom up real nicely, as should the EFI wiring. This is all theory though until it's done

[squirrel]

It wouldn't hurt to take a good look under the hood of your late model truck, and see how it's done...lots of support for the wires, etc.

[TheSilverBuick]

Between the two engines I have quite a few wire loom holder things that bolt onto the cam carrier/valve cover. Enough for both sides of the engine, one for the alternator and injector wiring and the other side for the sensors and ignition coils. I think I can make it look clean. I'm definately going to make a nicer harness than what's in the Skylark.

[squirrel]

Hint picked up, mission successfull

[TheSilverBuick]

Hey, at least the Skylark proves that even a messy hack can patch together a reliable EFI system. I can't think of a time the MegaSquirt has left me stranded since installation ~35,000 miles ago.

[TheSilverBuick]

Starting to work on the fuel rails. The parts store didn't have enough of the end fittings but they should have them in tomorrow. So I'll get the tube bender out and start working on bending up the lines to link three 4" fuel rails. The end two will spray into the intake ports pretty well, but then the center two will be a tad up right to clear the throttle body. I also have two potential fittings that may be useful on the intake manifold. i.e. a screw in injector bung. I have a jeep intake manifold to practice on drilling the intake and see how the threading works (or doesn't).

So the first iteration.


Cheaper than AN fittings and available locally.


Should be more than adequate for the EFI pressure.



Then just for the heck of it, I turned the engine upside down and looked up the bores at the bolted on head. Don't see a picture like this too often. The valves definitely fill the bore!


Kinda looks like the face of this robot or confused.

[DanStokes]

Randall, that's a really good view to take. It gives you a good idea of how shrouded your valves are. On my stock-valved 215 Buicks I used to die grind a little "eyebrow" at the top of the bore to unshroud the intakes a bit and it seemed to help. I did it as a result of taking the very peek that you did. Plan to do the same deal with the 250 once the new valves are in.

Dan

[Bob Holmes]

Great point Dan.

[milner351]

What will your piston top shapes be? Flat tops?

Double flare fittings should be adequate pressure wise - they're good enough for hydraulic brakes. Just make sure you don't have any vibration loosening issues - that will put leaking fuel right on top of the exhaust manifold between those intake runners.... scary.

[TheSilverBuick]

Forged with minor dish. May eventually step up to Dan's rod/piston combo.


I've got the contact info of the guy that does this work in Southern California. I haven't called to price it yet, but I'm thinking if I spend tax return money as soon as I get it, then I won't miss it? Lots of R&D time went into the port and chamber design (I trust the guy telling me this).




I need to pick up a double flaring tool (well go through all the tools in my basement first) as I put a Z bend in the 8" lines I got and they were still too long (I figured they would be). As for the fittings backing off, I wonder if I can make some kind of metal tab lock that drops on the fuel rail and holds the fittings. Hmm. The fittings in the fuel rail are tapered threads and pretty tight.

[squirrel]

I've never had a problem with flare nuts getting loose.

You'll have fun getting the length right, you probably want to leave the z bend in it so you can adjust the length easily