May have to take you up on that tomorrow, perhaps...too late, and too damn cold.
You know as well as I do that I don't sail with the Captain.....bleck!
May have to take you up on that tomorrow, perhaps...too late, and too damn cold.
You know as well as I do that I don't sail with the Captain.....bleck!
Wait a second, you are talking about the bolts that mount the caliper to the caliper bracket as the one's that aren't coming loose, right. And you do know that those bolts don't per-say bolt the caliper to the bracket solidly. Those bolts should bolt to the pins that slide in the caliper bracket. You do know that the caliper does move on the bracket. And what I was saying is after you unbolt the caliper bracket from the spindle and slide it off the rotor, that you will be able to slide the caliper off the bracket with the pins still being attached to the caliper. As for the brake pads you just pop them out, and once you've cleaned and greased(caliper grease) the pins you slide the caliper bracket back onto the pins and then pop the brake pads in. Basically what I'm saying is you don't need to remove the caliper from the caliper bracket to remove the brake pads. Now when installing them you will need to pop them in, since most brake setups use spring loaded clips to hold the brake pads.
Put it this way, I just did the brakes on my '99 Camaro, and this is the way I replaced the pads and rotors. In fact I had the same problem with the bolts not wanting to come loose. And I'm sure that the brake setup on my car is pretty much the same as your truck.
And as for getting them loose, smack the bolt with a hammer a couple of times, or better yet use an impact.
An impact on a Torx headed bolt?Originally Posted by TubbedCamaro
" Because your cylinder heads have to babysit an angry mob of pumping cylinders.."
Drag Week 2011 - BB N/A - 1977 Skylark w/455 EFI and TKO-600!
Drag Week 2012 - Street Race BB N/A - DNF on Day 6 - 1977 Skylark w/455 EFI and TKO-600!
Now you got me worried, the original pads on my wife's 99 silverado are half way gone, and I'll have to change them in 10 years.
I am sure in arizona they just slide right off
you don't have remove the torx bolts
I usually hit those with a 55c torx socket and a 3/8 impact gun
you can remove the bracket with a 1/2 breaker bar and an 18mm socket
I would not torch the caliper bolts , but no problem for the bracket bolts
I'd not use an oxy acetylene torch on them. Get a MAP gas or butane torch and heat them up till you don't want to touch them bare handed. Try to heat one and not the other.
However I think Spidey is the SME on this and if he says you don't have to remove them then don't.
Central TEXAS Sleeper
USAF Physicist
ROA# 9790
for those who don't work for the gummint in a hoity-toity white collar office, SME means Subject Matter Expert.
(damn I wanted to be an SME when I worked for Uncle...never quite made it.....)
I've used an oxy-acet torch to warm them,
I'd recommend replacing all the rubber hardware anyway.
Clean and lube the caliper slides before reassembly.
You know I will....
Remember the good'ol days when you could chuck the Vise Grips down on the bolt shaft and get'em out that way?
LOL...don't think for one moment that would've been beyond me if it was possible on this truck(woulda had to replaced them for sure, but hey..).
Waiting on the "better half' to get her ass home so I can run up to SJ's shop to do this.....next house WILL have a damn garage(never buy another one without it again)
you know the oem use some really nasty thread locker on some of there stuff and it takes heat to get it to come apart new or old . ever take a front leaf spring bolt out of a ford super duty ?a good I/R impact wont touch them with out HEAT