This is the swaybar mount that lines up with where the 500 motor mounts need to be.
You'll need an Eldorado pan or modify a front/mid sump like this.
Don't forget the pickup tube. Add extra length and move the mounting stud.
An aftermarket K-member will allow more room for headers.
Cleaned up engine bay. Didn't bother with the factory K-member as it is getting replaced.
Did a lot of "simplifying" behind the dash as well. Since this will be a street car, I replaced the heater core while I was in there. Most Fox Mustangs will need this done...
Modified for manual brakes while I was in there. Just move the pin for the pushrod up about 2.5" and weld the old hole shut for strength. Mount the pedal in the lower hole. Make a new pushrod from the ends of the 2 old ones (one from pedal & one from booster)
Trial fitting the SN95 K-member. It needed minor trimming & slotting to fit perfectly.
Granatelli K-member with "extra's" whacked off.
Trial fit of engine mount.
Engine all cleaned up.
Ready to drop it in.
Like Ragu, its in there!
Radiator trial fit . My oldest asked if I was going to the barn, when I said yes he asked if he could help. I'm on cloud nine....
Radiator fits nicely, very nicely. The fan is close, but I think will work. The engine is a little high in the rear since the trans isn't in yet, when the rear comes down there will be more room up front.
Now to mount the fan.....
Some work to the junkyard TH400.
Remove the valve body. If you are very carefull, you may be able to reuse the gaskets if they are undamaged. There are 2 gaskets with a thin plate in between them, we will be drilling 3 holes larger in this plate. The gaskets are labeled with a "C" and a "VB" to tell them apart. The "C" goes next to the case, and the "VB" goes next to the valve body. The detent solenoid will have to be unbolted as well to remove the gasket.
Now you can see the check balls, there will be up to 6 of them. Don't panic if yours has less, some had less, and someone may have been in there before you.
Note where the 3 arrows point. These holes will be opened up to a maximum of 3/16", any larger serves no purpose as this is the limit of flow anyways. (The hole size can be smaller, but I'm after a firm shift so I went to the maximum.)
These 3 balls can be removed, as their purpose has been deleted by the drilling of the plate. You may have more or less balls, but make sure to leave the frontmost ball & the rearmost ball.
This mod is to allow us to hold 1st gear manually without the factory upshift at a specified level. Remove the pin with a pair of needle-nose pliers.
With a magnet, remove the piston. Keep things in order & CLEAN.
See the black mark on the ringland on the right? Grind a "flat" area on this to allow holding 1st gear manually.