Ideas or help with fixing strong grounds to underhood firewall

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  • yarby
    Drives An Automatic
    • Jan 2013
    • 13

    #1

    Ideas or help with fixing strong grounds to underhood firewall

    I have a 92 Camaro that I have been working on for a while and now I'm down to the last bit of wiring. I am trying to ground the engine block and heads with ground wires but have ran into a snag. The self tapping screws went in the firewall but when I went to snug them up they just turned. Its thin metal and I understand but I thought that is what the screws were designed for. I have a mig I can set up but lack argon/c02 so its basically a flux wire welder. I thought of tacking a small bolt to the wall to use for a strong ground or maybe one of those small black squares that have the threads in it but am afraid it might blow through the firewall creating an eye soar. Any Ideas or options would be greatly appreciated.
    92 Camaro convertible 25th anniversary with newly built 350 bored .030 over with comp cams valve train with a 600cfm Holley carb (Not sure the carb is big enough, but its more street than racer). UMI trans cross member with center link connecting bar and all the rear end bars as well.
  • JeffMcKC
    Legendary BangShifter
    • Oct 2007
    • 7024

    #2
    I drill a hole and threw bolt it.
    2007 SBN/A Drag Week Winner & First only SBN/A Car in the 9's Till 2012
    First to run in the .90s .80s and .70's in SBN/A
    2012 SSBN/A Drag Week Winner First in the 9.60's/ 9.67 @ 139 1.42 60'
    2013 SSBN/A Drag Week, Lets quit sand bagging, and let it rip!

    Comment

    • DanStokes
      Ancient LSR Guy
      • Oct 2007
      • 28665

      #3
      Try a self drilling screw but torque it down by hand. Sounds like you're overtightening them if they get to the point of just spinning.

      Another option is to drill thru the firewall and install a - say - 1/4 or 5/16 bolt, all thread. Put a star washer on each side of the bolt (one inside the car and one outside) and run a nut down TIGHTLY on the outside. As Jeff said, sand off a spot for the star washer to sit against (you can paint it after the ground is made). Now you have a "stud" (sorta) coming out of your firewall that's well grounded and ready for a ground strap held on with another nut.

      If you were more confident of your welder you could weld on a stud - another way to skin this cat.

      Dan
      Last edited by DanStokes; March 5, 2013, 06:50 AM.

      Comment

      • cstmwgn
        Wagon Master
        • Oct 2007
        • 6134

        #4
        I like rivnuts in this type of application as it doesn't require a second set of hands to hold the wrench while I am tighening the nut. Whenever possible I prefer the steel ones over the aluminum ones. Typically < 1/4" steel > 1/4" aluminum. If you are not familar - google RIVNUTS.

        Comment

        • Scott Liggett
          No Life Outside BangShift.com
          • Oct 2007
          • 21561

          #5
          Riv nuts or Nutcerts. Or, connect grounds to bolt holes that are already there.

          Hint, do not use impact on self tapping screws. hehe.
          BS'er formally known as Rebeldryver

          Resident Instigator

          sigpic

          Comment

          • yarby
            Drives An Automatic
            • Jan 2013
            • 13

            #6
            Awesome ill take a look. You know I am sad to say that I used the drill to just get the head of the self tapping screw in then used a 1/4 inch ratchet and socket to get the threaded part in. I really barely tightened the screw in. I know better than to crank those down cause they are easy to pull right out. Thanks again guys always to the rescue.
            92 Camaro convertible 25th anniversary with newly built 350 bored .030 over with comp cams valve train with a 600cfm Holley carb (Not sure the carb is big enough, but its more street than racer). UMI trans cross member with center link connecting bar and all the rear end bars as well.

            Comment

            • TC
              Banned
              • Nov 2007
              • 11805

              #7
              Just use a bigger screw and run it in the hole that you already have.....

              Comment

              • TC
                Banned
                • Nov 2007
                • 11805

                #8
                Originally posted by Scott Liggett View Post
                Riv nuts or Nutcerts. Or, connect grounds to bolt holes that are already there.

                Hint, do not use impact on self tapping screws. hehe.
                Riv Nut guns aren't cheap...... I know I have one, then you have to buy all the different size Riv-Nuts...... But it is a good idea......

                Comment

                • Cyclone03
                  Superhero BangShifter
                  • Aug 2008
                  • 1081

                  #9
                  The nut starwashers and stud would be the best.
                  Over sized self tapper in the same hole worts too.

                  When I do a self tapper I use a punch to "drill" the hole that pushes the metal in and creates a little more area for grip.

                  Comment

                  • Bob Holmes
                    Legendary BangShifter
                    • Apr 2011
                    • 3549

                    #10
                    Run a big thick cable from the engine to the frame.

                    Is the battery front mounted? Run the cable directly from the battery to the heads and/or block.
                    I'm still learning

                    Comment

                    • cstmwgn
                      Wagon Master
                      • Oct 2007
                      • 6134

                      #11
                      Originally posted by TC View Post
                      Riv Nut guns aren't cheap....
                      They sell a manual tool that is not very expensive that you hold with a wrench while you tighten a screw/bolt through the rivnut. Works pretty good if you are only doing a few. I tool have a tool but am no longer strong enough to use in on the steel 1/4" units.

                      Comment

                      • yarby
                        Drives An Automatic
                        • Jan 2013
                        • 13

                        #12
                        well not ideal but I was able to get a kit from harbor freight so im gonna give it a shot tomorrow. It uses aluminum inserts so I hope that it will conduct enough to allow for the grounds to function properly. I saw some of the ones on the internet that looked nicer but ya know, Bet ill be kicking myself later. . To answer bob the battery is front mounted and has tons of wires going to its area already just trying to keep it as clean as possible. Its not fuel injected anymore but still has so many wires hmm. Ill let you all know about the kit from harbor freight tomorrow UNLESS one of you has a reason I should not. Thanks greatly I really appreciate the quick great help!!
                        92 Camaro convertible 25th anniversary with newly built 350 bored .030 over with comp cams valve train with a 600cfm Holley carb (Not sure the carb is big enough, but its more street than racer). UMI trans cross member with center link connecting bar and all the rear end bars as well.

                        Comment

                        • JeffMcKC
                          Legendary BangShifter
                          • Oct 2007
                          • 7024

                          #13
                          I have a HF kit works just fine..

                          We use a version of these from Moroso also

                          Moroso #74145 Bulkhead Connector
                          Last edited by JeffMcKC; March 6, 2013, 06:20 AM.
                          2007 SBN/A Drag Week Winner & First only SBN/A Car in the 9's Till 2012
                          First to run in the .90s .80s and .70's in SBN/A
                          2012 SSBN/A Drag Week Winner First in the 9.60's/ 9.67 @ 139 1.42 60'
                          2013 SSBN/A Drag Week, Lets quit sand bagging, and let it rip!

                          Comment

                          • yarby
                            Drives An Automatic
                            • Jan 2013
                            • 13

                            #14
                            Well got a chance to get those aluminum riv nuts in tonight with the grounds done. YAY they worked very effectively. I really wanted to say thanks again for the great ideas. The harbor freight installer is not top of the line but good and very cost effective for a small non daily use. THANKS again to all that chimed in so quickly you got me one step closer.
                            92 Camaro convertible 25th anniversary with newly built 350 bored .030 over with comp cams valve train with a 600cfm Holley carb (Not sure the carb is big enough, but its more street than racer). UMI trans cross member with center link connecting bar and all the rear end bars as well.

                            Comment

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