Hypothetical Build: Blown SB Chrysler vs. 408 Stroker

[BangShift McT]

As often as this comes up, I can't ignore it. I would like a bigger kick out of the Imperial, and it couldn't hurt to get some engine-building experience in.

Of what I know I want...it will be 360-based. As good as the 323 is, you can't disguise it's 318 roots. The 360 that was in the Diplomat had a much fatter torque spread. I personally like the idea of naturally aspirated, but I'm open to supercharging after the Regal's 3.8 proved I might like it. The engine must run EFI. Target goals would be in the 480-520hp range and I'm certain torque would follow suit. It also has to be daily-driver capable and long trip capable, and must be able to support an A/C system.

What I don't know is what would go together or cost. I sincerely have no idea what it would take to put an engine together like this past finding a block, stripping/checking, and cleaning. This is where I turn it over to you guys...help the clueless one out.

I'll be in the corner trying to troubleshoot my gas gauge.

[hauen]

KISS always works for me, I'd find a mid/late 90's Dodge truck with the 5.9 v-8 in it and swap it in, they make pretty decent low end power (250 or so hp and 340 or so tq, all in by 4k) which is just what you need, add a small turbo and little cam for better power

[STINEY]

^^^^

I like this idea. I'm not versed in the chrysler stuff, but a 3-bar MAP sensor swapped into a GM efi system will allow it to read more than one Atmosphere, after that adding a turbo is simple grind-n-weld-n-make-it-fit kind of stuff.

Maybe chrysler is similar? Get the whole EFI setup and harness along with the 5.9, change a sensor and go to town fabbing the rest?

Keep boost in a sane level and you should have no longetivity issues.

[BBR]

Dodge Magnum EFI sucks for modification plain and simple. I'd rather pour Tabasco sauce on my toes and gnaw them off while sitting naked in the snow than try to use it with a blower.

I would get in touch with the people at Supercharger Store and use a mild 360.

[TheSilverBuick]

*cough* 440 *cough*

[BKBridges]

Agreed with BBR... Mopar Magnum ECUs dont like boost in stock form as they only have MAP tables for NA apps. but there are shops that can fix that for a bit of cash. MS controller will do better with boost. As far as N/A, I guess I wouldnt be doing what I do if you cant modify the system. For the stroker, big power with medium money if you shop around a bit and the factory computer can be flashed to deal with the bigger injectors at idle, no problem. I see it all the time. 500hp is an agressive but achievable number with a 408 cu in small block. Run the Mopar M1 intake and a set of RHS heads and pick the cam for your targets...About 6K if you do the assembly all done and said?
BKB

[POS Dakota]

I decided the carbed 408 route was a much simpler way to go. Great engines. Your manners might not be as mild as a blown app, but that all depends on how much you care.

500+hp is pretty easy and reliable to do now with a 408, or a 390 (318 stroker). Not really a big deal anymore with the decent heads you can get. I know of a few out there that are pretty brutal. There are rumors regarding how much power the block is good for, but I have some extremely sick friends and apparently they are pretty strong. One kid I know made around 850hp with 14lbs of boost and 418cid. It held together.

Edelbrock heads can be ported to flow some good numbers and so can the RHS/Indy Iron casting. EQ also makes a nice head for the magnum as well. If you want legit race heads, there's a lot of that out there too.

With a carb an airgap type intake is the ticket for good torque all the way across.

Here's a pic of mine when i first built it...



Factory Magnum Block with ARP main bolts.
Scat Forged 4 inch Superlight Crank
Scat forged I beam rods (no clearancing needed whatsoever)
Icon forged pistons (10.3:1)
Geardrive
Indy/RHS Iron Magnum heads with ferrea stainless valves, intake porting, and beehive springs. around 280 cfm @ .550
250something @ .050 roller cam .600 lift (I forget the exact spec)
Hughes Magnum 1.65 ratio Roller shaft Rockers
Airgap Intake
demon 750 annular booster carb (good manners)

This is a 10 second combo in a mopar A body, I've seen people run 11s in a heavy cordoba with milder cams around 236 @ .050.
Mine went a little overboard on the budget, but I agree it can be done for about 6k with all the typical trimmings.

But whatever you do, dont paint it hemi orange.

[BangShift McT]

Nah, I'll be the sick bastard that paints it Chrysler Turquoise.

[anotheridiot]

wouldnt we all rather be blown instead of stroked?

cant think an engine is any different.

[MR P-BODY]

I think you should go with a 5.7 or a 6.1 gen3 ... with some minor work
you will have what you want.... use the wiring and ECU from the
car/truck you get the engine from... they are pretty cheap at the
bone yard... I'll be looking for a 5.7 in the next few months as a
engine for my Rampage.... I have a 416 in it now with 550hp and
520 tq but the 5.7 I use will more than likely be a carb BUT if I can
get all the injection for cheap I might go that way

[Beagle]

*cough* 440 *cough*

*cough* RB *cough*

413 from a motor home.

[73fish]

If you keep the boost down you will be Ok, if you start running the boost up then you will start having head gaskets problems. That's was the problem I had when I was playing with the blue bottle. I prefer the stroker over the boosted, but then I like N/A motors that I can spin 7500 to 8000. Find a good set of used W2 or W5 and you can get to 500hp with a moderate cam with no problem. As for the Big Block Mopar I'm not a fan, unless the plugs are in the center of the valve covers.

[BangShift McT]

I'm leaning away from B/RB simply due to weight. Shoved one into a '88 Diplomat for a friend...nose heavy, the tortions were not liking the weight, would eat any trans thrown at it except a well-kitted 727. I'd rather stay N/A, but the idea of light boost to keep some kind of flyer gear (3.15-3.30 range) useable would be worth looking into. Also have to get a good torque curve to move that big brick.