Rebeldryver's '65 Impala SS Black Betty

[Scott Liggett]

Re: Rebel(Dryver)'s Machines

Scott

On one hand - we all like to assemble engines with surgical cleanliness and precision - with the best parts we can afford.

On the other hand - it's amazing when you take apart an engine (usually a used one you hope to glean parts from) just how messed up an engine can be - and still run just fine! Like the piston skirt missing parts I found in the most recent 302 HO I took apart, and countless other examples of previous owners mistakes we've all found and scratched our head in disbelief...

I would say given the amount of use you've gotten from this engine - that things look just fine. In another few years you'll be ready for new rings and bearings, but I wouldn't loose any sleep over that bearing just yet.

Did you use any sealer in the corners of that one piece pan gasket? Yes, and around the timing cover and rear main.

Did you use sealer between the rear main cap and block? Yes, as per the factory repair manual.

Given the gasket crush factor - what distance between the pan and pick up did you end up with after welding? 1/4 inch.The gasket doesn't crush much as it has hard sleeves for the bolts.

[malc]

Re: Rebel(Dryver)'s Machines

It?s an easier fix if you use studs for the pan rather than bolts.

[milner351]

Re: Rebel(Dryver)'s Machines

Thanks for the follow up Scott - I'm sure you're happy with the leak free peace of mind knowing that the bottom end has many more miles of beating left in it! 8)

[Scott Liggett]

Re: Rebel(Dryver)'s Machines

Oil leaks bug the snot out of me. I've pulled the motor apart several times to stop them. Next up is a valve adjustment. Then I'm getting into some exhaust work.

Here's a hint to what's coming:
http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Small-...nch,19713.html

[Scott Liggett]

Re: Rebel(Dryver)'s Machines

One of the last things I wanted to do, for now, was adjust the valves. I haven't looked at them since I put the whole valve train in. A couple were getting yappy.

Since I absolutely suck at adjusting my valves with the engine off and rotating it over to each valve; I do it the messy way.

Here's my Comp roller rockers. I forget which type they are as I was in a huge hurry by the time installing them came along.


I'm not an expert on this, but you see the set screw on the the #1 exhaust rocker. It down farther than all the rest. This makes me a bit nervous.


I can still reuse this. Yeah, it's still good.


Here's the patient ready for adjustment. Even with the oil pressure at 25 lbs at idle oil spurts every where. Since I'm doing this with the engine hot and the oil hot; any amount of hot oil spewing all over me, the engine compartment, and the ground gets down right messy. Besides, I've had my hot oil hair treatment already this month.

I do four valves at a time. I get each one clacking, then tighten each one until it's quiet and at zero lash, then I shut the car off, then turn each valve one half turn farther. Going one half turn past zero while will cause the engine to stumble, so I do it with the engine off. Lastly, I re-tighten the lock screws.



The car is idling a lot smoother. Less engine shake and no more clackety lifters.

[TheSilverBuick]

Re: Rebel(Dryver)'s Machines

Isn't there little clips you can buy to keep the oil from spraying everywhere? Or do they not fit your rockers?

[milner351]

Re: Rebel(Dryver)'s Machines

I've heard a lot of old pro's swear there's no better way to adjust valves than the messy way....

I would think you could do this a bit cleaner with an old steel valve cover cut open across the top and folded back to create a splash shield....

I have to say all those oily rags around all those hot and moving parts makes me a bit concerned for your safety!

[Scott Liggett]

Re: Rebel(Dryver)'s Machines

I've heard a lot of old pro's swear there's no better way to adjust valves than the messy way....

I would think you could do this a bit cleaner with an old steel valve cover cut open across the top and folded back to create a splash shield....

I have to say all those oily rags around all those hot and moving parts makes me a bit concerned for your safety!

The engine doesn't run long enough to get them hot enough to catch fire. A few times I've pulled smoldering rags off the engine, but it doesn't happen unless I take forever to get the valves right. They aren't really sitting right on the headers. I roll up one rag, or T shirt in this case, and place it along the lower rail of the head to catch the oil. It stays up above the heat of the headers.

I just remembered that I have been saving a pair of factory valve covers just for the purpose of cutting them up for this job. I'll have to get on that.

[milner351]

Re: Rebel(Dryver)'s Machines

The guys I've seen do this quickly have a special wrench for the adjustment nut - I've seen them at jegs and summit and other speed shops, sort of a deep well box end wrench if that makes any sense - then a T handle allen for the lock nut.

With these tools, it's easier to work "through" the open top of a cut up old valve cover.

I would think cutting a notch from the lower front to the upper front corner - then across from front to back, then from the upper to lower corner in the back - forming a "C" that you could then bend up to about a 90 degree angle to the top of the valve cover would give you a good "shield" to prevent the oil from going down on the headers, and keep most of it in the engine....

[Scott Liggett]

Re: Rebel(Dryver)'s Machines

I went back today to see if what all I did to the car and the Proform carb would help it run better. I put it on, and instantly the car was running horrid. It would idle fine, and full throttle is fine; but the cruising circuit is messed up. Even after two soakings, cleanings, and blowing out holes didn't help. The car drives like it's got water in the tank and a lot of it with the Proform. It bucks, pops, snaps. Even the exhaust is popping and snapping with it. I'm guessing the there's something a foul somewhere in the emulsion tubes for the cruise circuit, but hell if I know what. So, the 850 went back on. Things were back to fine again with the exception of the richer idle circuit.

The other thing I couldn't stand one minute longer was that cracked mess of a dash pad. Even though it was getting dark out; I got out the razor blades and tools and starting yanking. I had to find and remove six nuts under the dash in the dark to get it completely out, but got it done. All the while I had CD in the radio and listening to tunes. I'll have to wait until daylight to see if I made a bigger mess. Those old pads were like after thoughts and even restored ones look dorky add ons. After seeing DF's Biscayne without one, I wanted mine the same.

I'll take some pics and post them in daylight.

[Scott Liggett]

Re: Rebel(Dryver)'s Machines

I go to take DVD back to rental joint. No heater fan. Blown fuse. Swell. While trying to change it by the light of dome light. That fuse blows taking my tail lights with it and the radio memory. Now, get the flashlight and replace both. First fuse pops instantly. I guess it needs more than 10 amps. 25 amps is holding for now.

Looks like I'll be resetting the clock and presets again. Mother puss bucket.

[TheSilverBuick]

Re: Rebel(Dryver)'s Machines

I thought the domelight fuse was linked to the brake lights?

Don't you love playing with stuff under the dash? You never know what surprises will crop up. :'(

[Bamfster]

Re: Rebel(Dryver)'s Machines

What are the chances you chinga'd a wire during the dashpad removal?

[DanStokes]

Re: Rebel(Dryver)'s Machines

Dash lights and tail lights have been on the same fuse for decades. The idea is that when the dash goes dark Joe Average will take the car in to see what's going on and will get it fixed. Not sure about dome light and brake lights, though.

Dan

[joebogey]

Re: Rebel(Dryver)'s Machines

Yep, I've had VW's and Dodges that had the brake lights at dome light on the same fuse.