Rebeldryver's '65 Impala SS Black Betty

[Scott Liggett]

Yesterday, I started off by prettying up my oil pan which I made worse by dragging on the ground removing it from the car.

After some sanding.


After some spraying. It was a bit runny cause the paint can was about 5 years old.


Out of curiosity, I pulled apart my new oil pump to compare it to my high volume one. The hv one has larger vanes and a larger body. My old hv also had tighter clearances between the vanes and the vanes to the side walls of the pump by .002 of an inch. Not sure if that means anything. Since my old hv was just fine inside; I decided to reuse it.


Today started with some measuring. I wanted to make double sure of the pickups distance from the pan's bottom then have Carl weld it on. At first, I forgot to add the pan gasket as it is a thick one piece one.



That would've been a 1/4 inch difference. Good catch before the welding.


This was after my third try at using clay and still off.


Holding a camera, a tape measurer, and a straight edge with only two hands is tough.


I never noticed that the first rod journal one the crank is drilled, but the others aren't.


In order to change the rear main seal, you have to remove the rear main cap. Duh. Yep, I didn't realize that.
The bearing stayed up there. Right after I shot this pic, it fell off and hit me in the head. OW!


Here's the main cap with it's bearing and the new seal. How's that bearing look?


The main journal feels a bit rough across it. I guess I need to start planning a rebuild of the short end. The new seal is in there.


The oil pump with the pickup welded on. That's the oil pump drive shaft from Moroso. Stock one had a nylon end on the left side.


I think I'm getting the hang of this new camera.



Felpro's one piece pan gasket comes with four of these nifty plastic screws that will hold up the gasket and the pan until you get the other bolts started. I'm keeping them things.


The gasket kit includes new, longer bolts and star washers because of the gaskets thickness.


Good news. No leaks, yet. Oil pressure is up across the board.

[Bamfster]

The one piece pan gaskets rule, they're reusable too.

[TheSilverBuick]

Scott, the bearings on my Centurion's engine looked pretty much the same after ~45,000+ miles. It's always had great oil pressure on a standard pump. While I had the engine out (putting back in the Centurion after a run in the Skylark) I decided to check out the bearings, I ended up throwing a new set of rod and main bearings in it since they were right there. Oil pressure didn't change, but at least I know the crank has a new soft metal wear surface.

[milner351]

Scott

On one hand - we all like to assemble engines with surgical cleanliness and precision - with the best parts we can afford.

On the other hand - it's amazing when you take apart an engine (usually a used one you hope to glean parts from) just how messed up an engine can be - and still run just fine! Like the piston skirt missing parts I found in the most recent 302 HO I took apart, and countless other examples of previous owners mistakes we've all found and scratched our head in disbelief...

I would say given the amount of use you've gotten from this engine - that things look just fine. In another few years you'll be ready for new rings and bearings, but I wouldn't loose any sleep over that bearing just yet.

Did you use any sealer in the corners of that one piece pan gasket?

Did you use sealer between the rear main cap and block?

Given the gasket crush factor - what distance between the pan and pick up did you end up with after welding?

[Bamfster]

I wouldn't hesitate for a minute to run that/those bearings. Like John said, you've put plenty of miles on it and it runs fine.....no worries.

[Scott Liggett]

Scott

On one hand - we all like to assemble engines with surgical cleanliness and precision - with the best parts we can afford.

On the other hand - it's amazing when you take apart an engine (usually a used one you hope to glean parts from) just how messed up an engine can be - and still run just fine! Like the piston skirt missing parts I found in the most recent 302 HO I took apart, and countless other examples of previous owners mistakes we've all found and scratched our head in disbelief...

I would say given the amount of use you've gotten from this engine - that things look just fine. In another few years you'll be ready for new rings and bearings, but I wouldn't loose any sleep over that bearing just yet.

Did you use any sealer in the corners of that one piece pan gasket? Yes, and around the timing cover and rear main.

Did you use sealer between the rear main cap and block? Yes, as per the factory repair manual.

Given the gasket crush factor - what distance between the pan and pick up did you end up with after welding? 1/4 inch.The gasket doesn't crush much as it has hard sleeves for the bolts.

[malc]

It?s an easier fix if you use studs for the pan rather than bolts.

[milner351]

Thanks for the follow up Scott - I'm sure you're happy with the leak free peace of mind knowing that the bottom end has many more miles of beating left in it!

[Scott Liggett]

Oil leaks bug the snot out of me. I've pulled the motor apart several times to stop them. Next up is a valve adjustment. Then I'm getting into some exhaust work.

Here's a hint to what's coming:
http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Small-...nch,19713.html

[Scott Liggett]

One of the last things I wanted to do, for now, was adjust the valves. I haven't looked at them since I put the whole valve train in. A couple were getting yappy.

Since I absolutely suck at adjusting my valves with the engine off and rotating it over to each valve; I do it the messy way.

Here's my Comp roller rockers. I forget which type they are as I was in a huge hurry by the time installing them came along.


I'm not an expert on this, but you see the set screw on the the #1 exhaust rocker. It down farther than all the rest. This makes me a bit nervous.


I can still reuse this. Yeah, it's still good.


Here's the patient ready for adjustment. Even with the oil pressure at 25 lbs at idle oil spurts every where. Since I'm doing this with the engine hot and the oil hot; any amount of hot oil spewing all over me, the engine compartment, and the ground gets down right messy. Besides, I've had my hot oil hair treatment already this month.

I do four valves at a time. I get each one clacking, then tighten each one until it's quiet and at zero lash, then I shut the car off, then turn each valve one half turn farther. Going one half turn past zero while will cause the engine to stumble, so I do it with the engine off. Lastly, I re-tighten the lock screws.



The car is idling a lot smoother. Less engine shake and no more clackety lifters.