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Rebeldryver's '65 Impala SS Black Betty

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  • Re: Rebel(Dryver)'s Machines

    Through my research I discovered I had something backwards on my A833 trans. It was the reverse linkage. On the shifter, I had to go left and back to get it into reverse. Now, this is correct for those old pick up SM465 iron, granny first trannys, but not for this one. I also had to do some mods to the linkage in order to get it to work with the Hurst Indy shifter I'm using. The GM version of this uses a specific shifter and linkage. So, I decided to try to remedy this situation even though everything was functioning just fine. That's perfect gear head thinking, right?

    The first thing to do to fix what isn't broke is to remove the console to get to the shifter.


    Another thing I was going to fix was my home made shifter boot. My first design created a round base, but the hole in the floor is square. It was like shoving a round peg into a square hole. This boot will find the circular file.


    You can see how much this truck tranny's shifter is above the floorboard in my car. Also, seen in this pic is the one inch spacers I made to make room for the linkage rods below.


    You can see that the rear gear lever is facing down. It' supposed to be facing up. Some of the experienced Mopar guys might also catch the 3-4 lever is upside down too. On the OD versions of the A833OD, they are reversed inside. 3rd gear is 1:1 where fourth is 1:1 on the other trans.


    Look closely at the 1-2 linkage rod and you will see where I had it modified. I moved the Z portion back in order for it to clear the trans case.


    After disconnected the linkage rods from the levers on the trans, you have to line up the levers on the shifter. There is a hole that goes through all of them that you run a rod through; or in my case, I used a T type allen wrench.


    After making sure all the lever rods are in nuetral on the trans, you then connect and adjust the lengths of the linkage rods. It's very easy until you try to reinstall those damned spring clips. They go flying everywhere.


    After taking the car for a spin to see if I got it right this time, which I did, I moved on the more girly type of work. Sewing. Oh yeah, the car is insanely loud inside with no boot over the shifter hole. Windy too.

    I had plenty of the material left over from making my first boot . I laid it out on the floor and using the boot trim plate as a template I drew out four triangular portions for a four sided boot. The back of this vinyl is covered in an acrylic that's like cheap, fuzzy version of sheep's skin wool, but it will keep the heat and noise out of the interior of the car.


    Yes, I can sew by hand. In 7th grade they made us take 6 weeks of different elective classes that also included woodshop, metal shop, cooking, and choir; as well as home economics which included sewing a pillow. I only learned two types of stitches, but the one I used here is nice and strong. It's pretty quick going once you get the hang of it. I finished this in just over 2 hours.



    I used a leather punch to knock out holes for the screws to go through. That way it won't pull out from under the trim plate. Here it is installed.


    And, finally, reinstalling the console over it. Now, I need a new shifter ball as mine now has the incorrect shifter pattern. More money, more money.......

    BS'er formally known as Rebeldryver

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    • Re: Rebel(Dryver)'s Machines

      so was a factory stick shorter?
      Si vis pacem, para bellum

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      • Re: Rebel(Dryver)'s Machines

        Originally posted by kyhunter89
        so was a factory stick shorter?
        No twice as long.
        BS'er formally known as Rebeldryver

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        • Re: Rebel(Dryver)'s Machines

          the impalas factory stick was twice as long as that??? or the shifter that was on the truck?
          Si vis pacem, para bellum

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          • Re: Rebel(Dryver)'s Machines

            Originally posted by kyhunter89
            the impalas factory stick was twice as long as that??? or the shifter that was on the truck?
            The original Hurst shifter with press in stick that came with the trans in the truck. It's a long stick that designed for a bench seat. I still have it. It kicks towards the driver like four inches and I was worried how close it get to the wheel.


            The original muncie type shifter for a 4 spd Impala was about the same height as mine, maybe an inch taller. Not much. Here's a pic of the console with stock shifter in a junkyard car.


            One other thing, I have the console moved forward in order to line up with the shifter. You can see how I did that in this thread.
            BS'er formally known as Rebeldryver

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            • Re: Rebel(Dryver)'s Machines

              Hey I finally got my computer crap worked out. I love your car! Here are a couple of pics of my mopar 883 od trannys the shifter tabs and arms have bin removed, so not much luck there. Sorry.






              Thanks for all the info I am currently scouring the pick-ur-part for one.

              Steve
              Well I have stopped buying stuff for cars I don't own. Is that a step in the right or wrong direction?

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              • Re: Rebel(Dryver)'s Machines

                After a call to Hurst this morning I got to installing the Roll Control, as they call their Line Lock.

                First order of business is find a place to mount the solenoid. Somewhere close to the brake lines, but near the exhaust or moving suspension is recommended. I just screwed it to the empty inner fender.


                Next, I removed the two lines from the portioning valve to the front lines. The lower port on the portioning valve got an inverted flare nut and the upper one gets the new brake line bent up to attach to the upper, input, port on the solenoid. (Note, the kit did come with brake lines or fittings. Hurst has an installation kit, but I got three 3/16 inverted flare to 1/8 npt fitttings, two 12" long 3/16 brake lines, and one 8" brake line costing $20 at Napa. I had the 3/16 i.f. plug in my junk drawer. The 1/8 npt plug came with the Hurst kit.)


                Then came the two lines from the output ports on the solenoid to the front lines. These were much easier to bend than the input line. The right one needed to be bent around the upper control arm's path.




                I ran out of time and steam. The wiring will come next weekend.
                BS'er formally known as Rebeldryver

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                • Re: Rebel(Dryver)'s Machines

                  Nice work, just make sure to follow it up with some nice smokey burnout pics
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                  • Re: Rebel(Dryver)'s Machines

                    Originally posted by joebogey
                    Nice work, just make sure to follow it up with some nice smokey burnout pics
                    YUP....what good is a line lock without burnout pics????
                    Whiskey for my men ... and beer for their horses!

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                    • Re: Rebel(Dryver)'s Machines

                      You're pretty handy with fabric - what's the hold up to putting carpet in that thing?
                      There's always something new to learn.

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                      • Re: Rebel(Dryver)'s Machines

                        Originally posted by milner351
                        You're pretty handy with fabric - what's the hold up to putting carpet in that thing?
                        It leaks whenever it gets wet, car washing, rain, etc. I have to pull the windshield, fix the rusted channel, and replace the cracked windshield.

                        This is a much higher priority than finishing the body work.
                        BS'er formally known as Rebeldryver

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                        • Re: Rebel(Dryver)'s Machines

                          ugh - sorry to hear about all that!
                          There's always something new to learn.

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                          • Re: Rebel(Dryver)'s Machines

                            I got the line lock wired up today. That means I didn't work much at work. Sorry, I didn't take pics of me adding to the rats nest. At least it's a more tidy rats nest now.

                            I added an on/off switch to the mix making it bit more complicated install, but I'd rather not have the thing live every second the key is in the 'on' position. I'll take some pics of the results tomorrow when there is light.

                            Originally posted by milner351
                            ugh - sorry to hear about all that!
                            It's not as bad as it sounds. The windshield is cracked in the upper right corner, so it needs replacing anyways. I'm thinking much of the leaks are from the seal being worn and cracked. The only rust is at the bottom towards the A pillars. The rusted sections are at the back of the dash where it meets the top of the firewall. Common area. Driver's side is about 10 inches long and pass. side is about 8 inches. Both are less than two inches wide. I've had estimates for less than $500 to fix it.

                            Other rust is the right side quarter (along with bad scrapes and worse repairs), right 1/3 of trunk floor, and drivers area floor pan. I have a new quarter and the floor and trunk pans are less $200 total. If I ever get a line on a 110 powered mig with gas, I may start the surgery.
                            BS'er formally known as Rebeldryver

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                            • Re: Rebel(Dryver)'s Machines

                              Wiring up the Hurst Roll Control required finding another source for power. Preferably with 'ignition on' power supply. My accessory fuse block below the factory one still had an unused terminal. I used the 6 amp fuse that came with kit and put it in at the bottom of the fuse block. This way I didn't have to wire the inline fuse holder into the power supply.



                              I must have doubled the amount of wiring under the dash of the car to power all the add on's and accessoried I've added since buying the car.


                              I decided I wanted an on/off switch to control power to the line lock. I didn't like how it would be hot anytime the engine was in the on position. I also didn't want to worry about accidentally hitting the momentary switch Hurst supplied on the shifter. I wasn't sure if I wanted to drill a hole in the dash for the switch and indicator light, so I used a little 2 hole panel and mounted it under the dash next to the Auto Meter gauges.


                              As you can see, I managed to wire this correctly. The lighted switch and indicator light shows everything is getting power when I hit the button. I can also hear the click coming from the solenoid under the hood. Success!

                              BS'er formally known as Rebeldryver

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                              • Re: Rebel(Dryver)'s Machines

                                It's not complete until you do your 1st burnout Scott...
                                Whiskey for my men ... and beer for their horses!

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