It takes a helluva lot more than just a paint gun. Paint materials alone are $1000 minimum, not including DA sanding paper, filler, tape, masking paper and anything else I can't think of. I also need patch panels, a welder to put them, and the talent to do all of the work. Yeah, $29 ain't going to cut it.
That's why my Mustang is going to look like a POS. Any paint job for me is going to be a case of Krylon. Yeah I would like a good paint job but no way do I have the money
unless I hit the lottery. My daughter's semester in NZ did in any vacations or new car for a very long time.
That's why my Mustang is going to look like a POS. Any paint job for me is going to be a case of Krylon. Yeah I would like a good paint job but no way do I have the money
unless I hit the lottery. My daughter's semester in NZ did in any vacations or new car for a very long time.
Mine has had the primer/spraybomb/quickie paint jobs for 20 years. I am tired of this look. I am selling my Caprice to fund this.
Glad I learned to do my own. I'll teach anyone who wants to make the trip here - not that hard, really. But I don't DO Autorama quality and don't claim to - just decent. Mine look decent but no tears if some knothead runs a shopping cart into it. I think Todd and I are on the same wavelength here.
Glad I learned to do my own. I'll teach anyone who wants to make the trip here - not that hard, really. But I don't DO Autorama quality and don't claim to - just decent. Mine look decent but no tears if some knothead runs a shopping cart into it. I think Todd and I are on the same wavelength here.
Dan
I want something between basic and show queen. It has to be a driver. My buddy just did a '59 Apache for mutual friends. It is so nice they don't drive it. He bought an enclosed trailer to haul it. I will not do that, but I want it hold its own at local shows. This same guy has a '52 Suburban that he spent 16 years restoring from a field find. He drives the snot out of it. It looks great, a fantastic driver and very comfortable for the whole family. Very cool.
Last edited by Scott Liggett; February 24, 2016, 06:42 PM.
I taught myself how to spray back in the early 80's. I worked for a company that made packaging machinery. Got pretty good at it. I feel I could do paint a car.
I taught myself how to spray back in the early 80's. I worked for a company that made packaging machinery. Got pretty good at it. I feel I could do paint a car.
I used to be able to put a decent finish down with cheap paint but some of this new paint gives me fits. I suspect Scott is looking at modern paint systems and a better than new car type finish that's not so nice he won't drive it.. maybe a new thread on cheap paint strategies so we don't derail this one too bad.
I want something between basic and show queen. It has to be a driver. My buddy just did a '59 Apache for mutual friends. It is so nice they don't drive it. He bought an enclosed trailer to haul it. I will not do that, but I want it hold its own at local shows. This same guy has a '52 Suburban that he spent 16 years restoring from a field find. He drives the snot out of it. It looks great, a fantastic driver and very comfortable for the whole family. Very cool.
I would say my car fit's in the "between basic and show queen" category. It works for me!
That's a reasonable target, especially if'n your going to continue to wrench on it from time to time.
Occasionally I see a car with astonishing paint, and I do get a little jealous, but not enough to have any regrets. Cost of a nice mid-range/OEM quality paint job is enough, the cost goes up exponentially from there!
I was at the local indoor car show last weekend. There were some absolutely amazing paint jobs and some that were just nice. Most of the work in paint is the body work. I have seen cars where spent a fortune on the materials, but the body had more waves than the Pacific Ocean. A decent paint on a straight panel will look very nice.
Yup, I've done prep work for a few paint jobs, and I think most people don't understand the hours spent in final blocking and sanding. It all looks so easy on the TV builds.
The preliminary metal work and rust repair etc. do take a fair amount of time, but meticulously blocking the flats, and final prepping the edges, curves and corners is a time suck like no other. It's bad enough doing it on your own, I couldn't imagine cutting the check for some of those show-cars!
Getting the sides of your '65 blocked out will be no quick task!
The car has been driving like it is toed out. Even though I didn't touch the steering or alignment areas of the front suspension, it is definitely out of alignment. It is possible that I had it realigned when the shaft was already on it's way out.
So, I took it in to my alignment guy here. He is a fellow member of the car club I belong to and knows his stuff. He also said my upper ball joints and idler arm are on their way out. I replaced the idler arm when I bought the car way back in 1997. I found the receipt and it is a TRW one. Remember them? The balljoints came with CPP tubular A-arms. They are just cheap replacements. I already replaced the lowers. Next time I buy any tubular A arms, I think I will get ones without ball joints to avoid this problem.
I ordered Moog ball joints from Summit Racing and an idler arm. Moog idler arms for this car are $200, or more. Sheesh.
Last edited by Scott Liggett; March 5, 2016, 07:30 AM.
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