Rebeldryver's '65 Impala SS Black Betty

[Scott Liggett]

I am not sure if the side exit scoops would move air out. Those Camaro ice trays are angled back. Hoping they would move air. The nice thing is that I dont use them, I can return them to Classic Industries as long as I keep them packaged. They also had the finned '67 Camaro type, but they didnt look to have any openings. I did like they way they looked.

Bamfster, I did see one Chevelle SS that had the side scoops opened up. It didnt look bad, but definitely wasnt done that great.

[mike343sharpstick]

I like your idea, looks great and functional. A modification that could have been done in the Late 60's.
A row of louvers would look great too, but I like your idea much better.

[Scott Liggett]

I like your idea, looks great and functional. A modification that could have been done in the Late 60's.
A row of louvers would look great too, but I like your idea much better.

I thought about louvers, they sure would do the job. But, I don't think louvers fit the style of the car. I see them on pre 55 customs and street rods.

I have also thought about some sort of side exit in the fenders like Vette gills and Trans Am extractors. But, I think it would have to be something custom.

I saw an mid 80's Toyota Cressida with an LS stuffed in it. He made some simple louvers, except they were upside down and pointed down and towards the front. It worked, with the fans running air was moving out of the hood.

[ksj2]

Found this on Bamfstr project update. WTH? LOL.

http://www.bangshift.com/forum/newreply.php?do=newreply&p=759068

[Scott Liggett]

Had a few fuel leaks. Fixed them. Installed the new Marshall pressure gauge. Same issue I've had since I bought the car. Pressure starts out at 7 lbs and falls as the engine warms up. You would think I would have an issue racing the car full throttle with what the gauges read. Third fuel pump and lines. Taking gas cap off didn't change things. The lines have all been blown out. So, has the vent tube.

Only thing that hasn't changed is the tank and hard line.

Put on the four hole spacer. Finally got rid of the last smog device from the '73 Impala from where the engine originally was installed. Not sure a pcv valve works with boost anyways. Haven't driven the car yet.

Spent the whole day futzing around with the dome lights. I have had them totally disconnected from the door jam switches for a while. I replaced the two lights under the dash that were corroded. I got a pair six inch long LED light strips. They work a ton better and brighter lighting up the under dash area. I am failing to understand why C pillar light don't work. I also want to get the console light to work. It is at the back of the console. I have the console harness and light socket. But I don't seem to have the dash side plug. I don't remember removing it. There is no overhead light on the SS cars and I am thinking of getting one for the hell of it. The ceiling has a mount for one.

[SuperBuickGuy]

Not sure a pcv valve works with boost anyways. Haven't driven the car yet.

it can, but you have to put the vacuum inlet before the turbo (and after the air cleaner). In your swap meet searching, find an oil breather canister (oil accumulator) and run that inline to collect the oil caught in the blow-by.

[Scott Liggett]

I made a big mess in the trunk today trying to fix a rusty spot.

I got a patch panel from Classic Industries for $60 last week.


The right side of the trunk has been rusty since the day I bought the car. It really hasn't gotten any worse since then.


I cut out the swiss cheesed section.



The good news is that the inner quarter panel section is solid, which is amazing considering the quarter panel on the other side that is paper thin.


As you can see, I am not going to use the whole patch panel. Barely a third of it. I can't see cutting out factory metal that is still solid.


Here's the patch lying in place. I used a hole punch to weld three sides overlapping. It's not pretty, but it's the trunk pan, and I don't open my trunk at shows anyways.The reason for this fix is to have a solid place to mount the battery box anyways.


I decided not to butt weld the entire patch panel. Getting it to fit perfect would take forever. So, the only section that is welded like that is towards the rear bumper. Since I was making a mess of it and Vlad couldn't stand me doing it anymore, he finished welding the floor in. We still aren't done. But, I was able to put the tank back in and drive the car home. We will finish it up later. Then I will do some grinding and painting to make things real purdy.

[NightShifter]

For an aftermarket panel it looks like it lined up pretty good.

[Scott Liggett]

For an aftermarket panel it looks like it lined up pretty good.

It didn't. Those dips and valleys towards the rear were wider than the stock ones. I had to do some hammering to get things lined up.

[NightShifter]

It didn't. Those dips and valleys towards the rear were wider than the stock ones. I had to do some hammering to get things lined up.

I had the same problem on a 55 Chevy I was doing. Just needed a small patch. I was shooting for perfection so I just blended it with a little filler.

[squirrel]

That should do nicely.

In future, you might make the patch a little bigger, and cut it so you can overlap it at the existing bends, and use the pre-made lap joint flange, etc. Good planning makes the welding easier, which is helpful if your welding skills are not yet fully developed.

[SuperBuickGuy]

I think you did a great job... and I agree with NS - it lined up very well. Of course, he forgot to put the rest of the words that always follow a reference to a Chinese-stamped piece "for a chinese stamped part." OEM they are not.

[Scott Liggett]

I think you did a great job... and I agree with NS - it lined up very well. Of course, he forgot to put the rest of the words that always follow a reference to a Chinese-stamped piece "for a chinese stamped part." OEM they are not.

It was made in Taiwan. You can see the label in the pics. It wasnt a bad fit considering. Factory tin always fits better. My front clip is all factoy stuff from multiple cars and wasnt a huge deal to get to line up. I talked to guys parting out cars and either had pans worse than mine or wanted too much.

[Scott Liggett]

I forgot to mention that the one inch four hole spacer brought back much of the lost torque. Yannick suggested a two inch four holer, but my air cleaner and hood would most likely be fighting for the same space.

[Scott Liggett]

I am looking at remote battery switches for the battery move to the trunk. I kinda like one that I could remove the handle when not at the track to keep people from jacking with it. Is there such a thing? Any other recommendations?