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(S//NP)I'm in, time to get my act together

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  • (S//NP)I'm in, time to get my act together

    For those of ya'll not used to protion markings, I just classified this message SECRET//NOPORN. It's a play on two pieces of my life that I'm kinda folding into my new "approved" racing idea.

    I deal with classified material on a frequent basis and all of it has to be marked to show what level of classification the document and paragraphs are. One of the classifications is SECRET//NOFORN, meaning only US citizens with a SECRET clearance can view it. Now the play is because I've struggled with an addiction to pornography for most of my adult life. Regardless of people's views on the subject, getting free of that addiction is the reason I'm able to race. It took my time, my money, and my drive off of the things that mattered to me. It's something I hid from those that cared about me for too long and now I'm putting it all on the surface as a label that this racing project/team is because I've been able to get free and it will not stay in the dark. I hope it serves as an encouragement to those who struggle with the same thing and are looking to someone to take the matter seriously and in the open unashamed. But enough on why I'm going racing and onto what I want to race.

    I've not bought anything more than a rulebook that I'm patiently waiting on to arrive to start getting into the nitty gritty details of what I need to make, build, or buy to be tech and class legal. I'm after either the E or F motor records (got to have a goal, I'll take what I can get the first time out) in Classic Production Supercharged in a 1981 Buick Regal with a Turbo6. There is a 139.359mph record for E/CPS and none for F/CPS since it didn't exist till this year.
    Based on the rough estimates of the "Purple Sage" SS Drag Force HP Thrust spreadsheet I need somewhere between 215-245hp to make an exit speed of 150mph which based on some totally uneducated guessing is what I'd need to do to break 140 over the final mile.

    I need lots of help with things like rear axle ratio and prep, wheels and tires, and the minor stuff that will get you bogged down in tech. Though the first thing I'd like to really sceince out is what my exit speed needs to be approximately for 140+ average over the final mile on the short course.

    Thanks and look forward to getting this rolling.
    Central TEXAS Sleeper
    USAF Physicist

    ROA# 9790

  • #2
    Congratulations and kudos for refocusing your energies ! My addiction is mechanical speed in a car of my design and build.

    Above all else is your personal safety if an event should happen. Fire and rollover protection are at the very tip top of your list. Spend GOOD money, wisely and that equipment will last you for years and protect you if you need it. All the speed equipment, car and running gear, may have to take a while longer to put together, which will continually evolve and go different routes anyway than originally planned. The learning curve can be gentle or very steep. Start slow and work into it. Most of all, have a great time, keep the stress at bay, and keep on diggin' !
    http://team61racecars.webs.com/

    http://baccusent.webs.com/

    Comment


    • #3
      First, congratulations on slaying your dragons. We all have them and they take many shapes.


      On to your tech questions:
      A build is NOT an event - it's a process. I've learned to do the basics (mostly the safety stuff) and let the rest come to you as you run and learn. Buy a GOOD helmet that fits properly (see my helmet fit thread). You don't have to spend as much as I did but you really DO need to be fitted.

      Make your best guess on the axle ratio/tire size, run it, and see where it leads you. Probably wise to take a mounted pair of short tires and a mounted pair of tall tires so you can easily change final drive ratios (if money allows I'll follow my own advise on this one). I'm starting with a 3:08 which happens to be what's in the truck but I don't know if the Diesel's torque could handle a numerically lower gear without bog. You gotta start somewhere.

      Make as much power as you can afford but keep it reliable. I'm not one to flog in the pits - I run what I brung. You'll see guys at Bonneville changing engines, bodies, you name it - not my style. To me, reliable HP is the key.

      On tires - a couple of years ago, Kumho ECSTAs (I think I have the initials in the right order) were the deal for inexpensive Z-rated tires. Drag Radials are speed rated and work great on pavement - not sure on The Salt. Front Runners work, too. I'd start with something like 24" all the way around and maybe 28" to 30" as an option for the rear.

      Mostly, don't worry - be happy. This is FUN and the only pressure is from yourself. You don't need to go there. I think it's pretty natural for a newbie to be worried about doing it "right" but really there is no "right" - except to have fun and be safe.

      Dan

      Comment


      • #4
        There are some online calculators to help with gears tires rpm selections John has a very nice excel spreadsheet that does all this as well.

        I am not really competitive but I can tell you what I have learned from playing with stockish foxbodies on pavement. I like 3.08 gear with 25.5-26" tire you will be right at your 140 goal not much over the 5500 rpm. If you are on the salt (longer course) it might not be as bad, but taller gears make bigger rpm drops. At speed (pushing lots of air) on a short course the less rpm drop will help acceleration witch helps top speed. Oh and those HP numbers are at the tires?

        Discussion Forum for folks in the Midwest U.S. and Southern/Central Canada.
        Last edited by Russell; January 1, 2013, 07:21 PM.
        http://www.bangshift.com/forum/forum...-consolidation
        1.54, 7.31 @ 94.14, 11.43 @ 118.95

        PB 60' 1.49
        ​​​​​​

        Comment


        • #5
          Congrats, Most guys seem to want to think/act there is something wrong with you if you don't have a compulsion for porn. Even have friends that have their wifes convinced of this. Obviously you know better. Proud of you.
          Previously HoosierL98GTA

          Comment


          • #6
            Dan, et al,

            Thanks for the encouragement and reminder that this is for fun not for quick recognition. I'll check out the corral info and see if it's either better documented or something new for planning stuff. Good point on the rpm drop with shifts on the tall gears, not considered that.
            I see stuff fitting into 4 categories:
            1. Personal Safety, the stuff you wear to keep you safe (individual)
            2. Vehicle Safety, the stuff mounted to the vehicle to keep you safe (shared)
            3. Vehicle, the car and the general equipment plus the tweaks and such to make it race (shared)
            4. Drivetrain, the engine, transmission, rear axle, and rolling stock that gets you going (shared)

            The individual/shared tags are for those items that if more people join me on the car they'd be able to race with as part of the team vs. the individual stuff that is fitted. I think I'm going to start shopping for used/preowned personal safety gear while I search for an 81 Regal that's not too deep into the lowrider scene to be redeemed or rusted to junk. Since engines are likely to be junkyard sourced I'll just try to find the newest RWD 3.8L block I can.

            On the porn thing, thanks for the encouragement and cheers. It hasn't and won't be easy to keep it this way but I've got a good support system and something to give me focus.
            Central TEXAS Sleeper
            USAF Physicist

            ROA# 9790

            Comment


            • #7
              You will need right at 300hp to the tires to go 150 in the mile. High 200s with really good aero.

              Comment


              • #8
                Originally posted by miketblsr View Post
                You will need right at 300hp to the tires to go 150 in the mile. High 200s with really good aero.
                Looking at the Salt to start with, however may bratch out to pavement miles in the future.

                The 'F' motor is looking more and more promising as the short stroke and long rod stuff for the Buick Stage II V6 is pretty cheap since no one wants to run tiny motors in drag racing. We'll see how the availability of cheap and high quality stuff turns out. Either way I'm going to need a 3.8L block so I'll need to start searching the yards for one.
                Central TEXAS Sleeper
                USAF Physicist

                ROA# 9790

                Comment


                • #9
                  Great work all the way around. Some of the hardest work there is. Well done.

                  You're a physicist - that gives you a huge advantage to start with - setting up a few spreadsheets with gear ratios, tire sizes, etc, is easy, I can send you mine -- it does not account for the "squish" of the tire (nominal tire size calc'd to diameter) or tire slip under acceleration - the salt is it's own animal, I know nothing about it (yet).

                  I don't know what the aero restrictions are in the classes you want to run, find that out first and then go from there, lower the car as much as practical to still allow it to be drivable and not a major PITA to load / unload from the trailer. Sheet aluminum for underbody shields and lower air dams should help as well - just remember to leave exit area for cooling air at least as large as the radiator inlet.

                  Bob knows lots about race car aero / cooling tweaks - hopefully he will chime in.
                  There's always something new to learn.

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Classes are largely determined by engine size and aero enhancements so watch your classes carefully. A belly pan (as John recommended) will for sure move you into higher classes that you might not want to run yet. Just blocking your headlights moves you up. Don't have my rule books sitting here so I won't give specifics but that's the basic idea. Even taping over your rain gutters moves you in the class structure!

                    I stick with the smaller engine classes because that's what I can afford. Know what? I have just as much fun as the AA guys!

                    Dan

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                    • #11
                      Congrats.

                      ------

                      Get that rule book before you start wacking at the car. You can start assembling your safety items, but some, like the seat and rule cage need to wait until the book is in hand.

                      I hope to start planning my car this year. I won't actually start construction until I have a plan completely laid out and costed.

                      If you haven't been to the salt, you need to go. In fact, I'd even go so far as to say that you shouldn't get too far into it until you've gone. I'm hoping to attach myself to a team this year and go through tech with them. I understand that it can be an interesting experience and want to try it out on someone elses car first.

                      I look forward to your progress.
                      I'm still learning

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Bob - Look me up in Impound! I get pretty busy but we can at least exchange phone numbers and make plans to connect later. We'll catch dinner one night and lie to each other!

                        Dan

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Any idea if I can run an oddfire crank in CPS? Still reading the rulebook but not found something saying I can't yet.

                          Thanks,
                          Central TEXAS Sleeper
                          USAF Physicist

                          ROA# 9790

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            I doubt it matters which crank as long as you report the actual displacement. And remember, if you set a record they WILL check the displacement. Might want to run that by the SCTA office - they'll put you on to the right guy to answer that for sure.

                            Dan

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              LSR is a great bunch of Guys and Gals that have always helped each other deal with Advances and Set backs personal or on the track. Going slow gives you time to get it right. Always looking to go faster. Look forward to running again soon.

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