Can some one check my camber reading?

[Huskinhano]

Just received my new caster/camber gauge today. I was just playing around with it a little bit to familiarize myself with it. According to the manual, each hash mark is 1/4* and the what ever hash mark the bubble is centered on, is the reading. OK no problem. It looks to me when the bubble is centered, it over laps on the ends, roughly in the middle of hash marks or about a reading of 1/8* as I see it.

Here's the driver's side. Looks to me to be close to 7/8* + caster



This is the pass side, looks like 3/8* + caster as well.

[Huskinhano]

Sorry about the upside down photo, it keeps flipping it.

[BigBlockMopar]

Sounds about right I guess.
What does the center gauge 'do'? Is that for Caster?

[Huskinhano]

Sounds about right I guess.
What does the center gauge 'do'? Is that for Caster?

Yes. Instructions say rotate the wheel 20*, turn the knob until the bubble reads zero, then rotate the wheel 40* so it's at 20* in opposite and where ever the bubble sits is the caster reading. Now I have to decide what to do. I need 0-1/2* - camber. I either have to pop off the UCA, thread both rod ends on each end as well as the opposite UCA equal amounts in order for both sides to retain the same camber curves. I'd most likely have to thread them in about 3/16 - 1/4", each 1/16" is good for 1/3* camber on my car. Then shim to final setting or buy a LCA eccentric kit which will make things a lot easier!

I suppose I lucked out a little. I put a long 7' straight edge on the floor with my digital level which read dead flat, 0*!

[CDMBill]

What car are we talking about? Camber is usually adjustable in some fashion on most cars without serious modification. Secondly,static camber is interesting but the dynamic changes e.g. bump steer are the most important aspects of how the car will drive, turn in, brake steer etc. once the static settings are close.

[Huskinhano]

get

What car are we talking about? Camber is usually adjustable in some fashion on most cars without serious modification. Secondly,static camber is interesting but the dynamic changes e.g. bump steer are the most important aspects of how the car will drive, turn in, brake steer etc. once the static settings are close.

My 66. This is what I put it.


What my UCA looks like


Unlike 67 & up Mustangs that have the eccentric on the LCA for camber and adjust the strut for caster, the 65-66 uses shims to primarily set camber and a max of 1* caster. It's hard to get any sort of meaningful caster since they used 0* to something like -1/2* caster* They also have horrendous camber. Then throw in modern radials that move the contact patch back makes for a fun car to drive.

I lowered the UCA 1" and back 1/4" as per the Arning drop. With stock arms after you lower them, you need to remove 3/16 to 1/4" out of both shim packs to get back close to stock to drive to the alignment shop. Each 1/32" is 1/3* camber. With the new parts I need 3*+ caster and 0* to -1/2* camber Right now I have no shims in either side and have + camber! So I either need to remove both UCA, thread the rod ends in about 1/4" which I figure will give me a whole lot more camber then I need or want and fine tune with shims. The other option is to install a lower eccentric kit for the needed camber and not take out the UCA and again fine tune with shims if needed. I realize once in motion things are going to change! I know all about bump steer issues with these If I go with 68 & up disk brakes, I'm about 99.99% sure I'm have to get a bump steer kit with the mods I've done.

[CDMBill]

To fix my nose high drag strip issue we got the toe better with a decease on the UCA upper pivot point drop( I was at 1.75") and had to cut .6 off the strut tube. (All Chassisworks/ Total control products) 6*+ caster which was good at drags and at Run to the Coast a week ago. Still have throttle over steer issues;) bump steer kit from Baer was a necessity as LCA is pointed up at tire at ride height.