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Installing Front Coil Spring Into A Bare Frame

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  • #16
    Originally posted by squirrel View Post
    chicken!
    You sure are pissy since you didn't go on drag week.... sheesh
    Doing it all wrong since 1966

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    • #17
      I thought I was always pissy? but yeah, that could explain it
      My fabulous web page

      "If it don't go, chrome it!" --Stroker McGurk

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      • #18
        cut 4 4"x4" squares out of 3/8ths plate cut 2 pieces of thick wall tubing .120 wall bout 8" long. sandwich each piece of tubing with a plate on each end, place in spring pockets of frame and lower control arm, still roll around frame, assemble truck and then install coil springs after you have the engine in place for the added weight to properly install the springs without a spring compressor and seat them
        Charles W - BS Photographer at large

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        • #19
          If your not going to use the tool that is made for doing it right, and have to be a hillbilly about it, move the frame so it is under the garage door opening, take a 4x4 or 4x6 piece of wood and brace it between the top of the garage door opening and the frame, put the jack under the A-arm, install spring, the 4x4 will prevent the frame from moving up while jacking...... You think it's crazy??, probably just as crazy as the rest of the ideas here.......

          IMO man up use the tool I posted, it's what it's made for....... Though I suggest you use a hose clamp and clamp it around the spring next to the arm on the tool so it doesn't slip.... It only happened to me once, but it was in my hands while I was putting it in the car when it let go.... Luckily it just chunked a small piece of meat out of my finger..........
          Last edited by TC; September 16, 2012, 12:21 PM.

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          • #20
            I made this spring compressor for my Mustang, similar to what squirrel suggested. I realize my Mustang is different but maybe you can take something from it. I used the spring perch for the bottom part of the compressor. I used an foot off and old shock to bolt it to the perch.



            I used a wheel bearing to reduce friction and the lock nut because the 5/8 nut was touching both races.

            Tom
            Overdrive is overrated


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            • #21
              Here's what I did....

              DON'T TRY THIS AT HOME. Unless you are like me and don't really care. lol

              Great success. Fox springs are well known for being rather difficult to get in. Regular inside-spring spring compressors have a tendency to get stuck inside the spring after installation, so I decided to take an unorthodox approach.

              Say hello to the hydraulic press and bailing wire method.


              Took me five tries to get the right spring height to slip in effortlessly. (with one failure due to only making 3 loops with the wire - yikes!)


              Spring sitting in place without any troubles.


              Once in place and with the strut bolted in, I cut the wire and removed it. I buttoned it all back up and put it on the ground.
              Life is short. Be a do'er and not a shoulda done'er.
              1969 Galaxie 500 https://bangshift.com/forum/forum/ba...ild-it-s-alive
              1998 Mustang GT https://bangshift.com/forum/forum/ba...60-and-a-turbo
              1983 Mustang GT 545/552/302/Turbo302/552 http://www.bangshift.com/forum/forum...485-bbr-s-83gt
              1973 F-250 BBF Turbo Truck http://www.bangshift.com/forum/forum...uck-conversion
              1986 Ford Ranger EFI 545/C6 https://bangshift.com/forum/forum/ba...tooth-and-nail

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              • #22
                Originally posted by TC View Post
                If your not going to use the tool that is made for doing it right, and have to be a hillbilly about it, move the frame so it is under the garage door opening, take a 4x4 or 4x6 piece of wood and brace it between the top of the garage door opening and the frame, put the jack under the A-arm, install spring, the 4x4 will prevent the frame from moving up while jacking...... You think it's crazy??, probably just as crazy as the rest of the ideas here.......

                IMO man up use the tool I posted, it's what it's made for....... Though I suggest you use a hose clamp and clamp it around the spring next to the arm on the tool so it doesn't slip.... It only happened to me once, but it was in my hands while I was putting it in the car when it let go.... Luckily it just chunked a small piece of meat out of my finger..........
                Originally posted by TC View Post
                I never had a problem with mine........ And I have used it many many many many times........
                Which is it then? I would definitely rather have a grade 8 or above threaded rod holding everything in place than a worm drive hose clamp.

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                • #23
                  I used 1/2" threaded rod from home depot in a pinch - about 4 uses is all the soft stuff has in it.
                  I will use hardened / grade 8 rod and nuts next time.
                  There's always something new to learn.

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                  • #24
                    Originally posted by BBR View Post
                    Here's what I did....
                    Sounds like an idea I may try... Only I'd use #9 wire... Like the top wire on cyclone fences or grape rows.. We use #9 wire to keep cars together..

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                    • #25
                      Originally posted by anotheridiot View Post
                      Which is it then? I would definitely rather have a grade 8 or above threaded rod holding everything in place than a worm drive hose clamp.
                      I was saying I never had a problem removing it from the spring after it was installed, not that I didn't have one that slipped on me, and that might have been operator error...... by the way I spin the bolt using a 1/2 impact, never had a bolt break...... Though I'm sure the bolt is stronger than grade 8..........

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                      • #26
                        Originally posted by TC View Post
                        I was saying I never had a problem removing it from the spring after it was installed, not that I didn't have one that slipped on me, and that might have been operator error...... by the way I spin the bolt using a 1/2 impact, never had a bolt break...... Though I'm sure the bolt is stronger than grade 8..........
                        What comes after Grade 8 that doesn't go into space? I really don't know.
                        "First I believe if you keep the RPM's high enough, ANYTHING is possible." PeeWee

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                        • #27
                          Originally posted by PatricksDad View Post
                          What comes after Grade 8 that doesn't go into space? I really don't know.
                          Most of the ARP product lines are stronger than Grade 8. I also think the hardened bolts that are black in color are stronger, but don't quote me on that...........
                          Last edited by TC; September 18, 2012, 09:07 PM.

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                          • #28
                            Originally posted by TC View Post
                            Most of the ARP product lines are stronger than Grade 8. I also think the hardened bolts that are black in color are stronger, but don't quote me on that...........
                            We use grade 8 all-thread... More $$$. Black.. Doesn't bend as easy.. Sometimes we can reuse a stick..

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                            • #29
                              structural bolts marked with A325 have a minimum Rockwell hardness of C24 and minimum tensile strength of 120,000 psi. 1 1/4" dia. bolts have a minimum Rockwell hardness of C19 and minimum tensile strength of 105,000 psi. Grade 9 bolts have tensile strength of 180,000 psi, where grade 8 is 150,000 psi. I mentioned Acme threaded rods, which are more like lead screws with square threads instead of pointed threads which will be much stronger and not strip out. They are at 125,000 psi and are a much wider thread so less turns will get the spring compressed, only being 5 to 8 threads per inch. You get a 3' piece of it for around 40 bucks, a couple pieces of unistrut or old angle and a couple nuts get the job done and will not just take up space in the tool box and you give one to a friend.

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                              • #30
                                as far as the black, yes, hardening will blacken the threads, but so will black oxide on overseas crapl Take your lessons from NHRA when some einstein thought using hardened chrome molly tubing would be better and John Forces cage ripped off his car and almost delegged him. Harder means more brittle, so when you are dealing with something that is moving, sliding or twisting, hardened bolts will break faster where softer will bend.

                                Great call with the use the soft stuff 4 times and get another piece. It will bend but not break.

                                And before titanium is brought up, its as strong as steel, not hardened steel, like grade 5 steel, its just as light as aluminum.

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