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  1. #1

    Things I Don't Know (or maybe don't remember) Again

    351C 4v Pull off the rotor and the hollow in the distributor shaft under it appears packed with felt. Does it get oiled? I seem to recall an old Chevy truck that had something like that.

  2. #2
    Legendary BangShifter squirrel's Avatar
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    Yeah, that's for the mechanical advance mechanism to stay lubed. Just a drop or two of oil should do it.
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  3. #3
    Legendary BangShifter JeffMcKC's Avatar
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    Make sure its not frozen up already
    2007 SBN/A Drag Week Winner & First only SBN/A Car in the 9's Till 2012
    First to run in the .90s .80s and .70's in SBN/A
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  4. #4
    Legendary BangShifter Beagle's Avatar
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    ^^

    Light machine oil like sewing machine oil or 3-1?
    Quote Originally Posted by Beagle
    Spear and Magic Hellmutt!

  5. #5
    I gave it one if the old-school high-tech tests. I stuck my finger in it. It came out (thank goodness!) oily. I have to pick up a vacuum tester of some sort to test the advance, but if I twist the rotor a bit, it moves enough to show everything is free. Still hung up on the "which port to use" for vacuum thing. Two tubes to the advance. One comes off the ported side one the unported side of the carb. Does it really make a difference? Can I just tee one port to both? Which one? I also have a manifold port free that could be used.

  6. #6
    Legendary BangShifter squirrel's Avatar
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    try the ported one, see how it runs.

    for a vacuum tester....just use a piece of vacuum hose, put it on the advance unit, suck on the end, if you keep sucking in air it's bad. If it holds vacuum it's good. Or move the advance unit by hand, put your finger over the hose fitting, see if it stays or springs back.
    Last edited by squirrel; August 28th, 2012 at 02:19 PM.
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  7. #7
    Legendary BangShifter JeffMcKC's Avatar
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    Man you want to start a WAR on Dist advance talk huh? It never ends well.

    I will stick my neck out, I like to use a late model single hose ( There is a allen wrench in the hole to adjust the spring tension) and off ported vacuum, when I set one up. I prefer locked out timing best. You can also leave the other stuff on for show and have it not work when locked out. The use of the car and what your doing may help with the set up also.
    Last edited by JeffMcKC; August 28th, 2012 at 02:19 PM.
    2007 SBN/A Drag Week Winner & First only SBN/A Car in the 9's Till 2012
    First to run in the .90s .80s and .70's in SBN/A
    2012 SSBN/A Drag Week Winner First in the 9.60's/ 9.67 @ 139 1.42 60'
    2013 SSBN/A Drag Week, Lets quit sand bagging, and let it rip!

  8. #8
    Legendary BangShifter squirrel's Avatar
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    there are lots of ways to do it....do whatever works.

    if you put a lot of miles on it and you want to help your mileage a little, vac advance is a good way to go. also might help keep engine temps down a little. It can affect idle drivability too.

    Experimentation is the name of the game here...
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  9. #9
    Legendary BangShifter
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    Gentle with the oil! Especially if you still have points. The oil can get splashed on the points and burn 'em up pretty well. The old GM unitized point sets came with a little capsule of grease that was to be sparingly applied to the plastic wiper that rode on the distributor cam and I changed many a set that were either over lubed or lubed in the wrong place.

    Dan

  10. #10
    Superhero BangShifter
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    Helped a guy change points many moons ago.. (seasons?)
    Had the car running.. Job well done..
    He asks," What's this for?". Meaning the little "pill" of grease...
    Me, "Oh that's to lube the points"...
    As I'm leaving a couple beers later.. He runs to me frantically waving his arms. (remember yelling "Bob" does me no good)
    He says, " car don't run no more"
    Me, " why?"
    He, " I lubed the points like you said"
    I take the cap off... A glob of grease greets me on the points contact area, not the rubbing block...

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