Which Mustang II and why?

[anotheridiot]

I have no idea which mustang II front end is in the 36 coupe I bought. just has threaded rods where the shocks belong. Is there a clear range of years that are most common? I was thinking like a 1976 to get new ball joints, tie rods, springs, shocks......maybe its better to cut it out and start over?

[oletrux4evr]

Sounds like it might be from Chassis Engineering.....they recommend not installing springs and shocks until the build is finished.......

[cantvalve16]

Did you do the bol in or weld in?

[anotheridiot]

thats far nicer than mine oletrux. it has the stamped control arms, really looks like both the front end and TPI motor were taken from the same junk yard ermm, I mean from donor vehicles.

I figure I will get some 12.00 tie rods from rock auto and see how they match up and just keep returning them til I find a year.

[oletrux4evr]

I used the bolt-in but.....I bolted it all up, welded the nuts inside the frame rails so I could box the frame, then after bolting it up for the second time, welded all the seams:

[realsteelfreak]

I wouldn't pass up looking at Speedway Motors, they offer Heidts and Speedway brand also. They have straight axles in various widths and even a 4 or 6'' drop.
I have seen these trucks with the 80's Crown Vic front stub from the junkyard also.

[SuperBuickGuy]

Welder series MII, grenada rotor conversion from Speedway or SSBC, rack from ebay. Cost is ~ 200 for the welder stuff, ~300 for the grenada conversion with rotors, ~300 for the tubular control arms. Springs will set you back 60 bucks from speedway. The rack - non power - is 100 on ebay. If you need stock-height spindles, let me know, I have an extra set

That said, I'm going to change my set up on the spider before it goes too far - I hate that flat upper control arm mount. Even now it wants to move. The fix is from Welder series, they have a vertical plate and you use washers ala GM upper control arms to align it.

[silver_bullet]

seen a lot of them... good bang for the buck...

1953-56 Ford Pickup Custom IFS Kits
From Total Cost Involved

The Total Cost Involved Custom IFS front end kit is available for a wide range of cars and trucks. Total Cost Involved Custom IFS is the best engineered, easiest to install and align IFS you can buy - and, when you compare the standard features, we believe you will agree it is the best value - dollar for dollar, on the market. Please note all IFS kits have a slightly different weld in crossmembers, photo shown may not be for this year and model.

Available for:

• 1928-1948 Ford Cars
• 1928-1941 Ford Cars
• 1948-1956 Ford Pickups
• 1947-1959 Chevy Pickups

Standard Features Include: front sway/anti-roll bar, 11" disc brakes, aluminum fully adjustable coil-over shocks, powder coated springs, heavy duty control arms, jig-welded crossmember - all designed for the year, make and model of your vehicle. 1928-1934 Ford models are rear steering units (the rack & pinion unit is mounted on the rear of the crossmember). 1935-1948 Ford passenger car, 1935-1941 & 1948-1956 Ford pickkup, and 1947-1959 Chevy/GMC pickup models are front steering units (the rack & pinion unit is mounted on the front of the crossmember).

#213-2200-00

1953-56 Ford Pickup Custom IFS Kit - Plain Steel / kt

[Caveman Tony]

My understanding is that there are pro's/con's to each:

- stock Camaro clip has superior geometry for "performance" driving (camber, caster, both of those under dynamic load through range of suspension movement, load, etc) from the factory vs. Mustang II
- stock Camaro clip is slightly wider - depending on wheels/tires you want to use, may not work with track width you desire

- Mustang II has slightly more straightforward measurements/weld-in installation (or so I've heard... Camaro clip is more curvy at point of attachments/welds, etc)
- Mustang II is narrower (custom kits are offered in various widths though)
- different spindles are available that correct the Ford-design geometry in the Mustang II to closer to the GM stuff, but don't know specifics. Think I saw these in Summit.
- Mustang II doesn't necessarily require that you whack the front frame rails of your truck for the install. Retains front radiator/body mount crossmembers, etc.
- Camaro clip installs - I've seen them done both ways -- frame rails hacked at the firewall, complete camaro clip goes on, OR the camaro clip is carefully, surgically slid into the existing frame rails and welded in. Apples and Oranges.

Fyi, apparently, the '76-up camaro clip is 1.3" wider than the '67-'69... don't know if the geometry is the same?

here's a comparison of widths....

http://www.quickperformance.com/Tech...us_measure.htm

[Lon_H]

The Industrial Chassis Dakota crossmember is excellent. I installed one my 53 Ford F-100. I talked to Steve at I.C. a couple times before buying it, and he made me a believer. The only downside is buying a Dakota clip and having to install new bushings. If you go this route, get a junkyard steering rack, for exchange. The exchange rate is roughly half the cost of a reman rack. Dont worry about Dakotas being six lug. The 6 cylinder trucks used a 5 lug brake rotor, same bearings as the 6 lug rotor. It's a 5x41/2 bolt pattern. I used Bell Tech parts for the Dakota truck, dropped spindles and springs and had a 8" lowered truck.

I'll try to find pictures of my install if you want to see it.