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  1. #21
    Legendary BangShifter boxer3main's Avatar
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    awesome setup. never saw one in life.

    I instantly thought of the rotax aviators engine. aligning carbs.

    home made manometer

    and there is a fancy gadget, can't find it..its in video though.

    to work it, they do not want the two halves of intake to be connected. yours is like that permanently it appears.

    I'll look for vid.

    I had a dual timing belt subaru doing that on an optical distributor (no advance retard). one intake.

    here is another one. this is not the first one I found. fancy though.

    http://youtu.be/GDc65eq0CqM
    Last edited by boxer3main; July 18th, 2012 at 05:15 PM.
    had a torque line of a diesel...because it was one.

  2. #22
    Lord God King BangShifter Scott Liggett's Avatar
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    Oct 2007
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    I think Barry Grant and Edelbrock have the equalizer tool you need for multiple carbs since both sell multiple carb setups.


    I always thought the longer the intake runner, the lower the rpm of torque. It's why Hilborn injection setups have choices of very short to very long stacks.
    BS'er formally known as Rebeldryver

    Resident Subversive


  3. #23
    Drives An Automatic
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    Jun 2012
    Location
    los angeles
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    Running very short or very long stacks on the hilborns brings back some memories
    Caddo Mills Texas AHRA nationals 1962
    Track was very greasy
    we took off the stacks completely and retarded the spark to kill the low end

  4. #24
    That, sounds like fun!

    Small update on the longrams tuning,
    The surging is down to acceptable levels with the timing at 10-11 initial.
    I've played with recurving and timing the ignition some more, since the engine pings very easily once you get onto the throttle a bit.
    In order to try and get rid of the pinging I've tried to richen up the mixture a bunch, but that didn't help.
    Only limiting the mech. advance to 26-28 total would take care of the ping.
    I'm thinking the cam and the longrams combined simply create too much cylinder pressure at midrange for the fuel to handle.
    Running the engine with full 35 degrees advance is no option.

    Another thing that's noticable, eventhough the engine's temp stays below 190, there's still a lot of engine-bay heat present under the hood. Probably because of all the aluminium engine parts giving off heat.
    With the carbs located in the corners of the engine bay, them sucking in all that hot air doesn't help either. I've been thinking I need to louver the hood to rid of that enginebay heat somehow.

    I've pointed a heat laser-gun at various engine parts, and even after 10 minutes with the engine off and the hood open, I've measured temps of around 110-120 on the carbs and 155 on the heads, waterpump and radiator.
    Last edited by BigBlockMopar; August 1st, 2012 at 05:50 AM.

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