1975 Plastic fantastic aka Corvette

[SuperBuickGuy]

I have to get on my "nanny" box for a minute...please go over that thing with a "fine tooth comb" before you take it to the track. The more pictures I see the more ragged it looks.

And I have to agree, migraines suck.

Need specifics, as it is there is nothing on this (mechanically speaking) car that isn't either new, closely inspected, or rebuilt.... if you're talking about the steering box, it is coming out tonight for a once-over and an adjust.

Here's the fully list of what's not being changed
1) lower ball joints - they're new from PO
2) tie rod ends (except the steering box attachment) new from PO
3) u-joint in rear diff and driveshaft - probably not new but no slop

Here's what's being/been done
1) poly everything including dust boots
2) fiberglass rear spring
3) new brake system including lines
4) new motor (bottom end has 30k, top end is new)
5) rebuilt transmission - and even this gets changed soon to the ST-10
6) boxed frame at the front sway bar, plate area around steering box
7) rebuilt rear differential
8 ) giovanni upper arm addition (adds upper control arm that ties to the top of the differential - I'll post pictures of the bits tonight)
9 )roll bar
10) seat harnesses
11) new tires
12) new wheels
12) inspected bearings
13) new sway bars + heim joints instead of bushings
14) replace mounts for differential with poly
15) replace lower control arms with adjustable units and johnny joints (or similar)
16) Johnny joints in the control arms (rear)
17) new fuel lines with no hose longer then 6"
18 )new fuel pump
19) new lines to tank
20) blow out lines

I'm sure there's more - honestly, I document when I remember, but it's certainly not all I'm doing

With all that said, thank you Bob (seriously) for checking my work - it's really easy to forget to do something important

[Bob Holmes]

I'm just looking at this as a 160-170mph car. And at the end of the straight you're going to haul it all the way down to 45 to 50mph. If you were not going to track this car, I wouldn't have the same level of concern.

Understand that all I can see are the pictures, but rusty spindles (rusty anything) in my mind requires things to be pulled apart, brushed down and inspected. Then if they pass, repaint and install. The rear axles look to have a seal leak coloring them at the differential.

Frankly I'd probably pull the entire rear-end out and inspect, repaint and install.

But...I've turned into Grandma Bob, and you are more than capable of determining the level of risk you're willing to accept. And you have a plan that provides you with an appropriate level of safety comfort.

[SuperBuickGuy]

spindles.... uhh, there are no pictures of spindles - there is a rusty-looking picture of the splined steering box shaft and the steering shaft - trust me, that's my stupid "I'll make this picture as red as I can yet not so red I won't be thrown in the garbage - or at the wall" camera. To get the rag joint off, it took judicious amounts of PB blaster.

As for seals, the only leaks are transmission related - and they self seal when the transmission is cycled warm/cold... the rear differential is getting rebuilt - or at least pulled apart and the clutches replaced and the carrier will have the corners relieved (per the Chevrolet Power book). But it isn't leaking. It will get a new rear cover...

But I hear exactly what you're saying. It's how this build went from a less then 5k to more then 5k.

With that said, this winter I'll do all the rear differential work and put the ST-10 in it. As it is, "race" season is over in 3 weeks.... and my last parts won't be here until next week...... want to lay dollars on whether or not I get this out at all this year?

[Bob Holmes]

Spindles, uprights...the thingies that the rear tires hang from...LOL. I'm not communicating am I. Oh well.

You need to move to California, we don't stop racing until...well we just don't stop.

The last race of the season is the first weekend of December, the 25 hour. There is usually a free test day at Thunderhill between Christmas and New Year's day. I think the first official race is usually in February. Next year I won't be doing the EMC, so we'll concentrate on getting a decent season in.

[SuperBuickGuy]

Spindles, uprights...the thingies that the rear tires hang from...LOL. I'm not communicating am I. Oh well.

You need to move to California, we don't stop racing until...well we just don't stop.

The last race of the season is the first weekend of December, the 25 hour. There is usually a free test day at Thunderhill between Christmas and New Year's day. I think the first official race is usually in February. Next year I won't be doing the EMC, so we'll concentrate on getting a decent season in.

yeah yeah, rub it in.... you best be careful with those words, there is a large chance I could be your neighbor.... or neeeiiiiigggghhhhbor (I crack myself up)
Control arm is solid, doesn't rattle or click or catch.... so I dunno what you're seeing. With that said, part of the upgrades this winter will resolve that - did I mention I have the cad drawings for offset arms? now If I just knew a laser cutter guy and a welder

this is a foretaste of the winter upgrade - lots of bits, and missing the arms, but this is the major part of the giovanni update


anyway, nope it's a waste of time to put these on since I have to remove them to fix the thingies that hold the whatchamacallits, and connect the brake lines - but anyway
new shoes


exhaust reattached - don't like it (too close to the spring) and I may just have to do side pipes or at least side exit.... but for now, this cost zero dollars


Grandpa Bob pins


the steering box is loose, but I need a pitman arm puller or remove the headers (not a chance, they don't leak)

[SuperBuickGuy]

Steering
removed the box


cleaned the box and checked for cracks or leaks


got my schnazzy instructions out


installed a zerk fitting to lube the box without having to remove it


no picture, but I adjusted the box tolerances

cleaned and painted the frame (a color that cracks will stand out if they develop)


decided after cleaning and painting that the dimple on the other side wasn't anything to worry about - there's no such damage on the inside - and while this car might have been in a left front accident, it also might simply be a spot GM designed to allow for frame straightening in the factory

finished installing the rear brake lines


painted the box - when it dries, I'll reinstall it


most rebuilt boxes - do all the steps above.... for $167.00; the only time they pull them apart is if there's a hangup (bad shaft) or bearings don't roll smoothly. This one seems fine, drove fine (a bit loose), so it should be back in business

[STINEY]

Is it just me or does that bear a strong resemblence to a Vega box?

I can't see from the pictures, where did you add a zerk? I clean up our VW boxes internally (hardened 90weight deposits?) and just pack them with CV grease instead to prevent leaks. Works fine, but they don't get 10,000 miles annually either. The zerk idea sounds interesting.

[SuperBuickGuy]

It's the top bolt - it's now been drilled and threaded to put a zerk in it

[STINEY]

Ah....there it is. Now that I see it, I can't not see it. Neat.

[SuperBuickGuy]

so, more work accomplished
steering box installed



reassembled the front end


Put the brakes on the front.... I don't get it - the calipers both front and rear aren't centered, and they aren't centered the wrong direction.... needed to put an 1/8" spacer on the rotor to get it to line up and not interference fit




cut the springs, decided it's too low now 3 1/2 coils...


here's the biggest problem with too low.... I'll have to make 1" wider upper a-arms to get the tire to vertical... ah well, I wanted different springs anyway, so this was more an experiment then anything else.


I still don't have the new upper a-arms, hopefully they're wider - if not, I'll have to come up with a plan

went to work on the back, removing the control arms to replace the bushings with poly.
I also got an inch lower by moving the rubber block from the top of the spring to the bottom and replacing the block with sheet aluminum.



I also might put the spherical bushings in these joints... dunno yet, those are for the major update this winter which will include adjustable upper and lower arms.