Tweet
actually they're not normally that large - my dad's 200 ton brake has a flywheel that might weigh 200 lbs
However, this is hydraulic so no need for flywheels
However, this is hydraulic so no need for flywheels
-
Doing it all wrong since 1966 -
The one at my customer's shop was from the 20's or maybe early 30's, so probably built overkill. They also had a shear that would chop 8' lengths of stock up to 3/8" thick! That thing was scarey to watch it efffortlessly go through thick stuff like butter! It must have had 500 lb/ flywheel, and took quite awhile to get to speed when started! They sold it for scrap, and the guys in the shop nearly cried when it left!Comment
-
shear is a different beast, I bet the one on my dad's is at least 500 lbs probably closer to 750 (10'). His prior brake was a Chicago built in 1932, it had a huge flywheel - at least 6" thick, 60" diameter solid cast iron. Everything is hydraulic now, but there is a large advantage to flywheel brakes - you can't overload the brake, the flywheel will stop and that's it, you can bounce pieces through (hit, bounce, hit, bounce, hit.. etc) but even so you know you're pushing the envelope. With hydraulic, when it overloads you seriously never see it coming.Doing it all wrong since 1966Comment
-
Busted hoses is usually what happens on overload with hydraulics... Messier that all get out!Originally posted by SuperBuickGuy View PostComment
-
I've only used a couple hydraulics, and both had gauges, so I could really keep an eye on the pressure while bending. I don't think I'd want to be around any hydraulic/electric brake or press that didn't have a gauge. My home press doesn't have a gauge, but it's manual pump, so you can feel it as the pressure builds.Last edited by 1946Austin; July 23, 2012, 04:46 PM.Comment
-
USPS delivered the cutouts today, so jumped right on them and got them installed. Pretty simple to bolt on, but fabbing the turnouts was a bit more. I have 2.5" collectors on the fenderwell headers, and 2.5" turnouts just looked weird, and I'd guess they sound weird too. I got some scrap 3" exhaust pieces from a buddy and made them from that.
Had to fab up a short spacer to get bolt clearance, and also direct them in towards the car, so I wouldn't burn myself getting in/out. I them cut part off a 90 bend off and welded that to the adapter I made by cutting a section out of the 3" aand making it 2.75" diameter.
Once I had everything test fitted and tacked I took them off and welded them solid, then painted to match the headers. Nice to just flip a switch while I'm driving and not stop to unbolt the headers. The switch is a bit o a booger to inlet into the dash, as the hole is 1/2"x3/4" rectangle, so had to drill some holes, cut out the piece, then file it square to fit.
Once it's together it's just plugging in all the wiring and coiling the excess up under the dash. I taped the connections under the car as they're right behind my front tires and could get water thrown up on them in the rain.
Comment
-
Looks real good! I love cut outs!Comment
-
Hated what I built on the cutouts, so chopped them off and just welded on some short stubs. cleaner, and less fugly looking.Originally posted by Deaf Bob View Post
Comment
-
I've gotta admit...........those others ones had me going
The new cutout look seems more "right", flows with the rest of the car.
Which is perfect by the way. Love it!Of all the paths you take in life - make sure a few of them are dirt.Comment
-
I hope those aren't close enough to damage the paint during WOT blasts.... I agree - the longer ones were, well, not visually orgasmic.
How about some turn down to direct the gases at the pavement?There's always something new to learn.Comment
-
They were pretty ugly!Originally posted by STINEY View PostI've gotta admit...........those others ones had me going
The new cutout look seems more "right", flows with the rest of the car.
Which is perfect by the way. Love it!
Comment
-
Doesn't seem to do that when I uncapped before and I doubt the short collector will be any different, so I think the paint's OK.Originally posted by milner351 View Post
Not too fond of blowing down and stirring the dust up. I see guys with turndowns that enter a dusty rea and have a cloud of dust around them.Comment
-
You going to the fly-in in Sandy this Sunday? I know my dad's going to be there (good pancake breakfast too).
I've been considering your cut outs and here's my thoughts:
- I didn't like the offset straight with the car because it looked cobbled
- I don't like the open pipe because a) if something lets loose in the motor - it's going to be all over your back tires; b) cleaning oil off the side of that nice paint would roundly suck
- maybe a straight with a bend away and parallel with the ground? or simply run full length side pipes? (full length on your car would be a shorty on anything else ;))Doing it all wrong since 1966Comment
-
The problem I have with a straight that has any length is the collectors point slightly out, so the longer they get, the farther from the body they get. With suicide doors that means I have to step over them to enter the car. Getting out is worse, as I always have to watch to not bump the collector now, and that would be worse with any length that was straight back. I've got a couple burn scars now from bumping the wingnuts that were holding the cap on before, so don't need any more of those.
Not sure about the show in Sandy yet. Going to one in the afternoon out in Murray Hills, so might not do both.Comment
-
How's this backdrop for a photo? Restored old gas station in a small town near me:
That's a nice restored old '49 Chevy PU in the background!Comment
Comment