Originally posted by 1946Austin
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Project Austin street gasser.
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dittoPatrick & Tammy
- Long Haulin' 2008, 2009, 2010, 2011, 2012, 2014...Addicting isn't it...?? -
What a nightmare I've been through lately with starters. Had one starter that was kicking out occasionally, so ordered a new mini starter. Had some strange noises with it, so did a closer exam and found a tooth missing from the flexplate! Had to pull the trans, but figured I'd save some work if I left it all hooked up, and just moved it back a couple inches until the pan hit the crossmember.
All worked OK, but the cranshaft bolts were a bugger to get at and drop out working up through the bottom. I also welded my firewall and tunnel too close, so had to use a 1.25" holesaw and drill access holes in the firewall/tunnel to get the bellhousing bolts out! Finally got the flexplate out and picked up the replacement, but when I bolted it to the crank, the converter pattern on my high stall converter is smaller. Had to take it back and get a 168 tooth with dual pattern.
After a day and a half of wrestling I got the new flexplate in. Had to make small aluminum patches for the holes, and then install new sound deadener and put my new carpet back in place. A ton of work, and not any fun at low 30's in the garage! I ran the 35,000 btu propane heater to take the chill off, but still pretty nippy in there!
Sure hope I never have to do that again, but if I do it will be a lot easier with the access holes to unbolt the trans or engine.Comment
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Is that a twin I beam 2wd, or a 4wd? Either way, a F350 is big enough to be a pain just from the size of everything! Hard to get help over a holiday too! But then I have a tough time getting help on the car anytime!Originally posted by milner351 View PostI'm sorry to hear of your hassle - but I feel better knowing I wasn't the only one cussing a project over the holidays - front end work on F350s is no fun at all.
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straight axle 4x4 with huge by large knuckles - u joint press was no match for the ball joints - took it to the alignment shop where he pulled out his $600 (yea - $600) air hammer and knocked the bejezus out of the ball joints - had them out in a matter of minutes.There's always something new to learn.Comment
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John is a sadist, he bought a Ford truck - and continues to live in MichiganOriginally posted by 1946Austin View PostI was feeling sorry for myself, but I think your repair sounds like a lot more work!
still, what's up with the poor-quality flex plates? .... I had an egg-shaped one on my Corvette, too.Doing it all wrong since 1966Comment
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Haven't examined enough to know? I didn't even check the new one except to overlay it on the old one. I did find one issue with the new flexplate that was a little irritating. The center hole is punched out, so you can see the dull die that punches it pulled some metal. When I tried to slip it over the crank end it wouldn't quite go. Had to touch it up with a file to make it fit correctly.Originally posted by SuperBuickGuy View PostJohn is a sadist, he bought a Ford truck - and continues to live in Michigan
still, what's up with the poor-quality flex plates? .... I had an egg-shaped one on my Corvette, too.
I looked at probably 5-6 flexplates at Autozone, all made by Pioneer, and lots of variety. Some painted, some bare, some gold anodized, some just 3 converter bolt holes, some 6 matching holes, some dual pattern. Prices varied from $19-$97, and the HD unit was still cheap at $37. Hope it last forever, as I don't change cars too often!Comment
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Yeah, I was dreading the flexplate change, but got really depressed when I realised I had boxed myself into a corner in building the firewall! I contemplated cutting a big hole in the firewall, and then making a removeable cover, but I couldn't see an easy way to cut it. I was pretty happy that the holesaw thing worked out, as it kept cutting to a minimum. I still had to carefully cut with the holesaw, as the tight clearance made things tricky. I drilled 1/4" pilot holes, then put the pilot bit into the holesaw backwards so I had a smooth shank in the hole. That kept the bit from walking, and also kept it from hitting the trans and breaking the pilot bit. Once the first hole was drilled and I could see I was inline with the bolt head, it made the other three holes easier to adjust and line up.Originally posted by Monk View PostI broke out in a cold sweat just reading your dilemma.
Been there, done that and it ain't fun.
Hard part is to stay focused and get the job done.Comment
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The curvature of the trans tunnel makes using a KO seal a tough one to use, as they wont lay flat and seal well. I could use them and then just seal the edge with RTV. The thin aluminum sheet I used was better, as I made them 1/2" larger than the holes and simply RTV the edge before sticking them down. Once the sound mat and carpet was over them, they're so thin they don't even make a bulge in the carpet. Those 3 piece KO seals with the screw and backstrap are thick enough to show. I sure used a ton of them in the 30 years I was an electrician though!Originally posted by milner351 View PostCan you use conduit plugs to pop back into the bored holes? they may rattle but it would be a simple metal solution that's easily removable.Comment
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when I put the cage in my Skylark, I started with the smallest hole I could - then worked up.... into the largest butchered hole that I could have done (because by the time I realize my mistake, the cage was in and I couldn't cut it out without even more butchery).... on the Corvette - I first bought new carpet.... then hacked a nice, large hole in place. Funny thing - it was almost too small.
The Fiat, the side panels will be welded down, but everything near a bolt that fastens the motor, transmission, and bellhousing into place have removeable panels.... I'd hate to be that guy who learns after just one go-around.
Good thing about avoiding Fords, it also helps to avoid walking
Doing it all wrong since 1966Comment
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