attacking a monojet

[boxer3main]

found another monster. I am familiar with this one. Electricity is a peculiar thing. What set off the stubborn? I blamed welding, but it is more than that. I also cleaned alternator some time ago, let the exhaust out a bit.



safety wire the oem runwire. I took out the old link from runwire to switch when I saw that I could get the oem wire to go straight shot to it. I gave it a little squish as well. This increased amps for some reason. Now relays audible. Must be as much feedback as I thought..not just a simple forward amp, this one needs a good kick. The run wire likes the machine wire as power source..but from switch to runwire, it is heckbent on being a direct connect..else it statics out to an off for no reason identifiable. All is well now. still no hack, that is literally the oem runwire and its untouched plug simply unplugged from key switch harness and run over to switch.

the warm up time was fast..a few more whistles and whines..but I like that sign of life in an engine anyway.

the real impression was some main relays kicking..synchronous, all four of them. Funny enough, they are in mount right behind the switch. that is why I do not cover stuff entirely on the switch, it is a safe haven, like a little fuse box surrounding it. subaru oem ignition at the key is the same open use of what is around it to protect itself, this version is safer and livelier.

one more electric chore, that is the little waterproof fuse box coming in the mail. That goes under hood for wires on left side of switch (cdi box, and magentic pickup at disty). That gets a twenty amp.

I also made yet another cold start video (could be tenth different setup for exhuast in 5.5 years)



this is before the swap of runwire. I could tell something was jumping around ..but never revealing bluntly.

I actually hate the sound of this..very rice. once it warms, it leaves the counterbalanced dildo world behind. A legend on its own.
you feed this one air, it does more than bellow..with 3 less carbs going twice as far comapred to the inline freaks of the same generation.

patience is the warm up. The big amps is very nice (I should have waited until switch was fixed to record)

[boxer3main]

this is a trait I wanted to share when this was finally correct. I have heard no other climb like this but a diesel.


2k rpm test. alot more cylinder and bass sound in real life..but as we know gadgets are afraid of "manly" things.
Got my tools in the back too. it is ashame about microphone, and then the net hacks a good one anyway. Nothing makes this cars sound...

bare bones is a 2300 pound. With a 4x8 sheet of millsupply steel disappeared into chassis, rods, and alot of other sheet, 36 pounds of mig.. I could only guess 2600 with the mystery steel does on suspension.

if you are familiar with bangor maine, there is quite a few hills beyond ten percent. I only showed couple of them.

recent accel ignition, exhaust work, cold air duct..
bog it down in some steep hills... this is how I check the ea82 spark timing.
the mic on camera really sucks, there is alot of bass with the 250cfm monojet given some throttle at slow speeds. My 48khz panasonic mpeg2 has never captured it correctly. Interesting sounding engine if to hear one in the hills, or torquing to some load.

when you think it would cough and die...this little monster emerges.

setting the timing is good to have in the winter..and the 8500 limit is a better high end once low speed is set.

[boxer3main]

I showed this photo in another thread, but pertains to this one as well. Carb is hickupping after the gas tank seam episode, stay real patient throttle to have low speeds.
outside has amost peculiar odor...it may be enough to cough the little boxer. Seems a routine yearly. I am guessing the pig of summer is fading away fast for the new pig called autumn. Then off to pig on ice... to the thaw of frozen pig slop in the spring.

the nice clean muffler may have everything to do with carb little coughers, almost hesitations..but not enough to get bothered by it. I notice if idle for a minute or two, the air duct must get warm, car just scoots right along. Air heater is installed soon. I don't know how this engine gains such a simple thing to go pansy after the brut worldy phenomenal things it survives.

An air heater is next..weld chores are done for this year, unless new fender swap reveals something on the a-pillar seam, although, this car breaks if there is any errors at all up front, I am sure it is still primer grey of 26 years ago. the dual range chassis is not like the others. A rugged piece up front..an inspiration to keep it going.

the muffler literally shrinks and expands, I am playing with .25 inch tolerance on all four corners of it when it is full warm. more than a half inch when cooled. way to go metallurgists..and some wonder why I dumped 36 pounds of mig wire and a 4x8 sheet of steel to make a car myself.

2 mins after shutdown it is free moving, with space I made...I have confidence.

today, driving down the road, there is a camera looking at me. I then raised my rear view mirror to see the sky.. strange perfect patterns. I wonder what does that? I saw two more people with cameras photo'd the same sky later on down the road. Something sems a big weather indicator. I assume cold battle given the history that goes with sunspot cycles reaching a peak next year.

[boxer3main]

I searched the world over, could not find this muffler anywhere..as if to be a fake advertised product teasing me and my runt subes exhaust area for amuffler.



browsing ebay, all 3 ads for bullit, and this exactly correct one, be it used, was in the list of just 3. Spending what I have already is just going to have a nearly new thrush muffler in its box it shipped with. oh well.

this is not a glass pack.(my sube pulverizes those too.) This is a muffler with a diamond shaped baffle in the middle. My decision to eat the cost of my just delivered muffler was due to the swelling, a bit more each day. I do not want to trigger the seam nor bend anymore. the scary part is when it swells enough to be touching gas tank, while tank is budging seam to a bitumen gas leak. after the seam decides it needs to create heat. Holy shit. You my have heard the cackle fester this engine has to be in the back end. Those are called fires.

I have had enough. being antique status, this muffler on the loud side or not does not even matter…a correct fit does. Legally, there is no worries locally.

This full hydraulic engine may be the very stereotype about old subarus being gentle. I have never had one..but I guess they do exist. (my first one was a solid lifter with manual steering- that was thier rally car engine once upon a subaru time). I have not been quiet since. With this muffler, it is like modern day, mellow at slow-mid, then puffs up like a primitive vtec in the lifters and lets it fly. Simple genius. jeckle and hyde, city and highway.

I can't believe I just found this..and actually made a sale. If I am not mistaken, it is going on 3 years ago that I found this perfect size for the little sube..and no place to buy anywhere. Not a single one.
theis ea82 with a glasspack is obnoxious, I mean outrageous. I tried to make a glasspack my own, with a baffle..and could not of course.
looking forward to this one. I hope sale was not a hoax.

another thing with the thursh muffler, there is an edge getting beaten by the tire in the wheel well going by not far off.
this quote is from lawsons website (they make them). I was sold on it some time ago..could not find a single one.

The Insynerator Bullit muffler is made using the same heavy gauge aluminized steel, that is used in our Insynerator Race, Performance and Big Body Series mufflers, but is designed with our unique diamond baffle in the sound chamber.
The diamond baffle directs the flow of exhaust out and around the diamond baffle then through the sound chamber giving this all welded five inch (5”) Round Performance Muffler a deep aggressive tone that rivals the Insynerator Performance Series muffler.
The 5” round body allows the Bullit to fight easily in tight spaces. Off road vehicles owners like the Bullit because they still get that deep aggressive sound which only comes from a V-Baffle chambered muffler, but were not able to get in a round body until the Bullit.
These off road vehicles need a round body muffler so that mud deposits cannot build up on the top of the muffler like on an oval muffler. This mud build up adds additional weight to the exhaust system. This additional weight can lead to several problems that are very common for off road vehicles such as exhaust hangers breaking, welded seams breaking at the welds and torn or worn out rubber hangers and leaking exhaust gaskets.
The round body of the Bullit will eliminate mud build up thereby eliminating these problems. It is available in five (5) inlet and outlet sizes ranging from two inch (2”) thru four inch (4”). The Bullit is painted gray with high temperature paint to prevent the welds from rusting and leading to premature rust out of the Bullit.
It comes with a two (2) year warranty and is packaged in our retail style packaging which is a flip top style four color box.

edit:
sale went through, marked as shipped. less than half cost of new, some dings and clamp rings.. I weld anyway. the paint still on it is a good indicator 1781cc still has long way to go with it. A cool thing with these, if something lets go, cut it in half, do what it needs. I did that to a glasspack. the shell is just right for making immortal with a thick bead of mig after cutting...the insides are not however. so close to having a strong enough, and yet so far...

what is up with bullit in smaller sizes? must have flown off the shelves to hondas and every other dangling tiny muffler realm of autos. from subes to chevy cavaliers.

[boxer3main]

As this has no heater n the air duct..thismeans cold moisture could happen. I opted to seal vent vapor can hose exit to CAI boot. The injection version of this engine had A hot maf, this was not possible. ..and goopy moist related things did gather at times. The carb actually has another benefit over the injection version.



attempting to resemble the days of carb with an injection cold air boot, I put this little breather filter in halfway up duct to possibly suck on engine heat, act as a relief. the drain function of these things on carb engines is unnecessary for this one, as air plenum is a separater.



A reason for the T-off to filter was no way to hook vent can line to duct without adapters and 52 clamps of insanity. rummaging through a bucket found this spark plug boot and it fit the cause. I am going for appearance of “simply running”. The vent can valve opens at startup, then whatever draft is in intake gets it through the vent can exit, which normally goes to a purge valve and run by ECU. keeping this open on 22 inches of vacuum is a real sucker punch. The gentle vac in the cai boot is just right. As injection gets all vapors of fuel, they do have the benefit of keeping lightweight vapors, dries moisture, adds in cold starts. This worked good upon test drive.

Another reason to stay confident with a full CAI on thia carb is the cams..the engine came with a singular point injection, needs a little CAI boot pressure to maintain draft by staying very air tight to air filter plenum on fender. Respecting the uinjection cams for this carb, the tight CAI boot seems to be working the same. the vent can hose I now have on the CAI is normally the singular injection air bypass hose, which went over to the singular injection carb. Rochesters air bypass is fulltime, whistles on throttle let down. So, this left this spot for vent can vapors.

so far so good.
I may attack left side of custom header to seat properly, not sure what is going on there..refuses to seal even with a sleeve into the head. this also effects carb runtime.

[boxer3main]

past mid august. avoid structure stuff for another near year..till next may, june.

the first quarter I fixed in 2007, it was winter.. I gave it a quick push today and heard a crack on the inside. Like a typewriter me and this car. Headed for the last weld, go back to the first one.

crystalline structure is something I heard steel is associated with for people with microscopes. The weld I gave near muffler hangar is the last inches. Going down the road, I heard a gunshot type sound, a bolt hitting an empty garage floor with a washer on it, and glass breaking...

that one weld did all that. I finalized a change of stubborn. needed the road. Crystals snapping. that does need a car to do strange things like that. does it just once. magic of density stays with it.

I was a bit afraid of the final spot to 80k psi...no worries.
A chassis toughened is known by people with rollcages. I built a whole chassis based on 80k psi, and no cage. the engine has the same reward to give.

A bit of flash tickle in my eye, same as years prior..especially after a near 6 minute run of surfacing at a time. waiting out new odors of the new season of cool climbing in already. Night time reveals what was once stubborn in the old steel. near muffler even has powders of old catalysts and leaky mufflers..could make a sneeze many yards away..a molecular invisible, shewed away by powerful weld. Sixth year attacking this chassis.

even the muffler hangers sing like a bell if to hit it with a hammer. oem rear struts, just this year, deemed useless. psi has been gaining all along, very slow. A long running symphony.

bottom door seams are getting cold weld, jb weld two part perhaps...if luck stays with me, I can call this complete.


muffler:
the insynerator bullit, I finally found the section at lawson industries website to buy a muffler from them direct. May have been there since I first was looking some time ago. They aren't exactly all over the web.

glad to go used with it anyway..if it ever ships that is.

[boxer3main]

being I have a strange eye for size of things..by picking up a part in one place and remembering it at another time, possibly years later..fitting like a puzzle in my mind ongoing. There is a disease named after that by someone lesser.

I found the rear wheel bearing outer race for my 1987 subaru is larger than the flared end of the new 2.25 inch exhaust pipe. These cars blow tail tips like mufflers…quite often. A funny thing about the wheel bearings…I spoke up about post 1990 EJ series subarus being a total piece of shit, and bearings was only one of the things I felt the need to inform the ghetto midgets about. (The older 3 main subarus are stronger in every way on the subject). There is a reason my american hack is here. Seems “fitting” I keep the extra strong steel of the "overly large" bearing on a spot that kills all tail tips. Opinions ..err facts aside..I now got an exhaust tail tip from old parts. Will be putting this together sometime soon. Waiting for shipping of other muffler. Shamefully swapping, as the new muffler is getting settled in, sounds nice, the thrush turbo is a good lightweight one.

on another note, I have a cut on my eyeball. randomly very painful. A week or so to realize how skills fade away if you don't use them comes to mind. At 39, I should be in an air conditioned garage with a lift and a hired employee.

[boxer3main]

just when I thought I was done..
gas tank is leaking.
runs good now..

Another attack on that, bolts are useless to get a socket on.
fill it with water after drain, grind all six.

slap in a 1993 tank. If I remember correctly, that was the other nightmare for the first 3 or four years of this model. the chemistry at tank seam was insane.

the 1993 version is a good one. I have yet to fill the tank on this wagon. looking forward to it.

some tell me to wait it out, it is the year of this car. it mysteriously stops as fast as it came..holds true. I don't want to play around with that anymore however..

looking things over today, as molecular changes kinda smell...this car, its like a catalytic convertor that got dusted with metal..a very strong metallic odor. I was quite confident this chassis was done. 52F at night to the summer we are getting fried by in the day, maine gets a whiff of a hurricane as they form even if its off the african coast, to tease at what might happen next. Cars go their little routines during this time. that is why I don't like chassis welding past mid august. that piece by the muffler was the last thing untouched for the four beams in a square that confine the tank. Consider it a chassis change...surprised me. an eye trick to think it was not one to change a subframe endpoint. I thought something was slightly different going down the road...been that pleasant gain for 5 years now.

the real testament is gauges of steel that need to move around. I have corner of muffler at .25 inch from gas tank seam. full warm runtime, to 52F at night...never hits it. This also indicates, the muffler hanger area I was referring to is as tight as the singing bell noise i got out of it after smacking with a hammer. I could not wait for these little glories on the impossible tin can from japan..newer ricer kinda muffler is indeed on its way. Never a full open can, but I could guess it is fairly robust. this little engine is calm at slow speeds anyway, I am taking advantage of very squishy lifters. A solid lift engine..damn. been there with this one. a little devil with the noise.

no leak at tank as of right now..evidence I shaped in the box by a very small amount. the big gunshot noise must have been the kicker of change. too solid to be a gentle bender.(the strength I created has been a source of comical for some time). A psi change gives one kick, unlike a hammer change...(those can come back). another reward for welders.

Did I mention the hit and run here? I was at a redlight on a steep hill. Bang. a pt cruiser smacked the back of my suby. Coins in the tray ended up in the back of the wagon, even meandered thier way into the little tool tray under the carpet way back at the tailgate. more than 8 feet. Direct hit in the backbone if their ever was one. I knew what I had welded then..(going on 4 years ago). Noticed nothing in runtime, not even a sputter. pulled bumper back off of my 80kpsi rear quarter "panel" (it owned a bumper), as it sits today.

[boxer3main]

the gator socket, being a net freak, I ordered it to go pick it up at the store myself. kinda silly isn't it. This will be used to snap the bolts cold.. they are not going to come out.

I also thought of 4 more welding chores with tank out. 2 quick patches, and run a bead on the rear crossmember..and I forgot the other one. Will get to it.

got word today, the passenger fender is still not available for the 1.2 millon a10 chassis, some of which are still not even twenty years old yet. Real shame. Thanks for the subaru support. it is my last foriegn vehicle of asian descent (and my only).

both of these chores attack the monojet. I guess i'll have to weld up gently the backside of the fender approaching dirahea to look at..(this protects the air duct).

optimistically, the loyale gas tank getting installed and the engine it fed was my fastest little sube. The version of gas tank is 458 dollars for reasons I have never figured out. the one for my heap is only 80 dollars. I knew the 80s was a real turd after owning that loyale...it has nearly all silly problems fixed.

edit: tried this out it is useless..until the tap needs a handle. works nice for that. It did take quite a turn by my own standard, before losing grip.
gas tank is fused to car even after getting bolts out. I have never seen such a vivid red oxide of laminate so welded by nature ever..even wandering a 1920s junk yard.

so..filling with water, grinding each of six bolts, pry it off with a four foot bar. Being the subframe is tight with weld, and tank seams front and back have space..this should come out peacefully with one last big bang. The old tank will get no repairs...I don't feel any subaru should. Tank problem, chuck it.

Awaiting a few things to get several chores done at once.

[boxer3main]

in switch photo previous, two circuits.. one is the oem runwire, the other is magnetic pickup and accel box.
I added the fuse holder today, ten gauge wire from battery, crimped to the 14ga that feeds mag/accel side of switch..the fuse ends up the bridge keeper..but it did more. the header got quiet.

live and learn. never knew that about fuses until adding one. Acts as surge protector, filter, even colds the wire.

that is a nice holder too. waterproof, squishy plastic, not breakable. I added a 15, as accel box has a built in 10, more for the switch and magnetic pickup left without a fuse...I guess it just right for now.

all circuits safe.

Wouldn’t you know it..turning on highbeams does not drop idle down anymore, and the header left side, the troubled one, is quieter. I have not attacked that yet to where it ought to be..this is going to be nice if remaining chores goes well.
hesitation near nil on the carb. I don’t even have a heat riser installed. the little things sometimes..they surprise me, how big they get.

so this concludes that all efforts into normalizing ignition were in fact true..and needed everything I have done. Runs bigger, smarter, efficient and faster.Part of the fun (never all of the fun) is knowing exactly just how much faster the work has built. I am still working on that liesurely event at a strip. The 1/8th mile one local..I can't stand it. the 1/8 mile concept..it is just not me. So this means a well planned trip of several hundred miles...it will be a rare one.