attacking a monojet

[Barry Donovan]

rubber feet

I was under the dash, putting the accel box to a final spot. I dug out a steel bracket from the toolbox and placed some squishy rubber feet from the inside of a burnt dremel tool on the accel box. I had it on one scew to reduce vibration, let dash trim hold up the rest of it. The bracket allowed me to mount one more screw, no drilling anything. the car or the box. I don't know why I have not photo'd under there. It is as if I want to get in, get out, button it right back up. no thoughts on photos..and I photo alot.

I had to think back to the mounting spot of ecm on this model car, I chose same spot for the accel. I noticed the car got jumpy with no feet on the ecm... learned that some years ago. so, patiently dropped dash trims to drop the box, and apply the self sticky feet, a drop of crazy glue as a helper. Accel responds the same. a crystal oscillator is the same no matter what the little computers job is..

just right. The clocks float like a pc in a builders box... to wonder what rubber they need , just refer to your pc. Laptops have it built in..but a pc is a place to find what I am referring to on the bottom. it adds performance and decisions cpu make on a long nominal run are smoother. The ones in the dremel reduce vibration of the very high rpm motor. just right.

on tin can cars, they need it just as much as a harder american. Not many places just mount the clock on a pcb, hard places or soft. they need somethng..the rubber helps.

[Beagle]

I don't think a turbo encabulator will work on a ten speed.... ?



and I have to ask - the clamp on the left came off a Briggs.. right?

-in case my internet grin is not working today, I'm messing with you.

[Barry Donovan]

I don't think a turbo encabulator will work on a ten speed.... ?



and I have to ask - the clamp on the left came off a Briggs.. right?

-in case my internet grin is not working today, I'm messing with you.

I had clamps from anything and everything. most likely a piece from the bottom of a toolbox. it may be froma fender nut. one of those slip on sheet metal ones.

this whole ordeal is not something I am used to. Even the stroke outruns the width of a standard distributor rotor.
nice ignition is in..and now I bounce the dainty alternator brushes around.

the quick snap that should be happening to 8500rpm is gaining its gentle ground... ambiguous.

I know its F1 screaming capable.. I giggle at every little gain.

the motorcycle idle is just a start.

that top piece, the thing looking like a piece of mans genitalia..
someone taught me that on a 250ci many years ago.. the monojet won't climb its venturi without a plenum bolt right in the middle, adjust it with a washer bigger or smaller...just above venturi. unless engine is a slow sloppy sucker...it pukes the fuel in it then.

My engines aren't allowed to be slow sloppy suckers. that is to say, real draft on a strong vaccum kills the monojet. it likes 14inch or 18 vacuum..my own is 22 with throttle open. A bit too much. I had heard of a v8 just giving it a garden hose for a main jet..but that is ignorance.

the later generation has no separate accel pump hole, it shares the main fuel tube...made it even leaner. I hope not to confuse this carb with the old garden hose monojets..this one is a fuel crunching engineered from the 70s...it needs extra thought.

[Barry Donovan]

venturi dome photo (bright)



this photo with gamma setting way up shows without much words needed, what the dome needs to accomplish. Aside from low pressure underneath it speeding up venturi tube atomizing, I needed to make a round opening where a square is. kinda like kindergarten, and that toy that only allows the right shape into the right opening.

this problem has other unique answers on other unique carbs.
the bellow on a weber 48 is an example. they aren't quite right without it. big singular barrels.

this monojet is doing in a much smaller space what the weber does with a whole lot more....a little more difficult in other words.

if you are into measurements..the cap/dome is 27 mm, (1 and 1/16th). Proportion that to how open that is to fight into the round part of venturi (tightest part of the venturi), that is also close in size to the 27mm..

I have only gotten in a few cold starts tinkering with stuff, and a warm start on a short ride. There is a hint of a whistle on throttle, other than that, it seems even quieter..rubber boot with a metal plate above it.

This one climbing to 8k rpm..strange silence. Self balance in action. Equal headers means equal scavenge timing..at 2 inch pipes for each of 900cc bank, not exactly a stressful sound.
the dig of a deeper fire, more towards diesel..that is where my ears are trained for this engine. This means full and climbing. This setup is a new combo..my goal for a long time.The past was Not enough amps, ignition was a slob, and factory fuel was for something in a 1200cc range...the pipes? less than one inch for several inches even a foot at a time on the original header. I did keep some to squeeze a merge into catalyst. no kicking anymore can happen. When that diesel dig goes quiet...it ain't right. Venturi too fast..exhaust went blow torch. Won't notice while running, next cold start would tell me what that did. Never blows it..but I did learn that much about this engine. This dome setup conquers that too.

I need to avoid errors now, no spare engine at this time.The high rpms are new for me. Will get this on camera outside the car. As if I don't know how rare this is even if it was running as factory.

funny enough, I can burn the 15 inch tires..I just don't.

[Barry Donovan]

the letter E




I could put this in with alternator build, but it relates to some carb problems. The subes ground for alternator sensing requires a whiff of battery negative, this is not the same as block negative...or block to chassis. both thick on my own setup..nice grade wires.

I thought back to a thick blok 301 pontiac in a delta88.. the last time I ever encountered the anomoly. Not a common problem at all. Deciphering could be as simple as low resistance plug wires keeping the alt from the battery negative back at the starter end of engine...or you could blame the sun. Blame game blah blah. Subaru found this as well, also in the 80s..confident enough to label the spot on alt to got to battery. I never used it on any old sube, ever. in fact, I had to clean the deep threaded hole out on this remanned, no one has ever utilized it. I did take time out to find the deep screw this takes, thread it all the way in. (3/4 long) This applies to hyped up ignition in my case, but some engines are that stubborn. Result if an error is a battery that never seems to be full charged, hard start, blame ignition advance, all kinds of silly things... or even dim lights and alt not stepping up regulator.

..and of course, carbs that use any power to function can get the hickups.

ignition key got warm even with "run" wire on a separate switch at the start, went away of course..simply a new surge.. Amps stepped up more than they have never been. A long run to get battery up to its own Alternator charge reading correctly, this should be very nice.

started right up after running a thick wire from the E spot to battery negative directly.

voodoo monster be gone. I am done blaming maine and the sun and uranus.

most cars even today, don't even think about this..not sure how, and I don't need to overthink it anyway.
Not even this old boxer needed this..of course it has never been right anyway, runted to less than 100 hp. precision or stepping up brings it about.

[Barry Donovan]

stage # ...?

the little suby sedan rally cars played with stages. My own as a wagon is like alot of others. the same belly and engine, the top is just a shell as a wagon.

as history goes, even this 80s subaru had its little quiet path to gain more. No instructions what so ever.

I was thinking about the "E" wire..regulator does not know battery negative is at the other end of engine anymore. like a slow death comes about. That is one hint there is an engine that was wallowing in pig between the two. big pipes and ignition sends it with an air volume just right...no real battery negative to send back to the alt.. Like a tow package on a thick block 301 delta 88...
Now this means rpms can go as far as fuel, the guts could hit 14000 and stay alive like a ricer bike.

today, there really is a stage 1 clutch in it..nonexistent in the days of its tiny wheeled rally.

been an interesting learn as things go along.

the rochester is the beginning of all of that, although the original clutch was outdone the second I put proper rated 15 inch on those giant wheel bearings (bigger than your biggest baddest WRX, kids). Bizarre contrast of 13 inch wheels and bearings that could hold a 5 ton.

Working on another spare engine to keep in a little spot, can't find anther 100 dollar one just yet. I know they are out there. they don't need much room..and trying for solid lift n/a one more time. As for now, seeming a wimpy climb to its max, 72 in second, 103 in third...with two more gears to go. I do not believe in turbos on this tiny super stoich stroke. leave that to a mercedes 4 cyl diesel.

even though the last engine was sintered, part of the ingredients of fail was indeed amperage and the way aluminum containing fluids get guided. No short circuit..it was built by oem to be a runted pansy. the random 85psi oil pressure I used to get on cold starts, is there permanent now. The puzzle is complete.

the monojet is only going to get bigger as time goes along.

as for immediate future, I may try an all metal intake now. instead of a swirling kicker as it used to be (it did not like metal of any kind as CAI)..there is a physics guide now that may like it ..can't explain myself. I found an old brass bed in my dads garage, he said use any of it. the tubing for posts may be the first run of it. Something from ebay to get around the top of carb...may be weld up a hat.

speaking of weld. This weekend is the last of it. 6 years of at least one major section of the car at a time. pouring over details of the frankenstein...I am simply adding little two inch half rounds to rear end crossmember. like mudflaps, and for appearance.. The power of welds psi left original 25 year old gauge right out in the willies..slammed by everything. Stopped in time. psi is everything.

36 pounds of mig wire could have been cut to 20..but I had my doubts like lazyasses to rusty fenders. Not nearly as much was needed as I self doubted the same as mainstream. Who knows what I built. should be around for awhile.

I still don't know how to sell in proper words.

already browsing diesel mercedes forums...seems my age. looking forward to moving on. I like finding them cheap. 200k miles in maine must be nothing for those...only guessing. I found stuff about ALDA, boost gauge and controls. I'd be just one day changing an old runtime once again. I actually outran the car I am in a few years ago. I started in on them while in my twenties, concept of rally amazing. I am ready to cut rpms in half and gain 500 foot pounds. It has been 15 years.

bangshift has been great for allowing me to ramble. this car fits in nowhere but custom pieces and attacking on my own car from one end to the other...only to find I was teaching universal. this cars make does not even matter. My only foriegn car and it needed just like my old school american stuff. I hope my next project doesn't leave me running from brand names..but am glad this place exists if I do.

[Barry Donovan]

full amps at switch

ever wonder what two gauges of wire connected do for a whole circuit? that is where fuse links come from in the origin of them. strain the lesser strands into a burn first, in the place of your choosing. I took one out today after realizing I did not need to do that. Full amps are now at the run wire on my switch. I proved to myself oem is a wimpier version indeed. Came right to life. The "run" position is a big freakin switch after all.



the left strands are 14awg machine wire, heavy duty covering. Flame retardant. the right came from something subaru related. This was the run wire splice, decided I did not like it.It is now all 14awg machine (left strands). would you believe the short jumper to plug was only two inches long on the right strands to oem run wire…and it is noticable to change it to the left strands only. Must be some kinda big amps going. I actually wanted to mimick a fuse link, but found the run wire does not need that stuff. all safety related stuff is elsewhere. One of those little chores. also now at the switch is all fancy covering over plugins that came with the mig welder. A lot less volts where it is at, but used everything it had. The original plugs and fancy covers are now at the switch. Buying these little pieces and the extra details is not easy. Glad to have recycled something heavier duty, and nicely done.

Ignition switch complete.

[Barry Donovan]

octane

the fuel. I never ever pay attention to the babble of 87 to whatever octane.
dumped five gallons of 91 (shell version)...

cough stopped. even sounds good. Stepping away from a straight six with a monojet sound, the fuel was indeed a problem.
a first of twenty cars. 87 octane became a real peeve..never thought I'd ever have a problem. the past echoing like a 12 to 1 engine declared an 8.5...

I really done it this time. I outran 87 octane. The last of the previous engine, isnot going to happen to this one. Nice sound to go with 90+ as well.

looking over past year..this summer is the first of normalcy. A hydraulic lifter’d engine for civilization (I do like the raspy solids though) . the all brass copper radiator, header wrap. Genuine subaru spark plugs (elusive little buggers – they aren’t the same as ngk equal). the spec clutch, accel ignition. the labor of finishing chassis into frankenstein hidden. the ignition switch..

I chose a slow road to build at it. less than 5k miles a year. More ink for the printer, getting all receipts in plastic laminate, organized by year. All 6 of them. My last goal:

A sale price exceeding a WRX equivalent. This is my version of farewell to my only foriegn automobile. Justifiably so..

coil on order, the electronic ignition version accel 140008.

not feeling all that well. Another posioning..has to be the last. Nothing is left in my old pile. All remanned, burnt by welding hot as the sun...

I guess that grungy alternator rebuild. I am off to take it easy..

Today, its errand day for alot of disabled, out and about is usually busy in my locale (a retirement capitol of the world).
I have not driven much of anywhere. A few sputters, a familiar odor to when I opened the box of this carb in february.. the first summer for this carb that smelled like a louisiana swamp (came from texas), full proper bowl vent was only recently. Climbs right up without the boxer sound I am accustomed to. I do not know where it is at until traffic.
A funny thing, getting on a highway, cars behind...this is where you learn what humanity thinks of your car as they slam out into the left lane with the FWD hiny lighter than a poodle with a dogbone in its mouth tries to fly by. keyword: tries.
My first funny event with these ea82 cars was about 700 miles into a trip, actually a sad personal one..very long freaking day nonstop over 700 miles...and this jetta raging with a fart can, 1.8 logo...he thought I as trying to race while being in the travel lane, my exhaust leaking.. That was almost ten years ago. I put the chugging diesel sound of my wobbling 13 inch wheeled tin can into fifth and proceeded non stop the last 110 miles at 90 mph.

I knew then to rebuild an old subaru. The biggest one they ever made.

Today, getting to the point... A jetta did the assuming pass after the merge routine old suby drivers most often get. I just stayed with it to play with it. The surprise? it had a cute little "T" suffix on the 1.8..
seems fitting after all these years. 500 pounds heavier with density of a ten speed tranny, my welds, and the rear end.... on four 26 pound wheels. Very funny. (it is a faster than a jetta 1.8T)

[Barry Donovan]

one last coil update

I found the numbers from adavance auto where I bought the super stock 8140 some years ago.

they still call it a "points ignition coil", and not to claim the guy at the counter was not smart about my universal request. It was plain wrong.

to sum it up 8140 super stock:
95:1 turn
9.2 kohm secondary
1.4 ohm primary (that is old indeed - like ballast resistor days)
and the false claim I uncovered..they are claiming the same 30k volt coil, same part number..is 42k today. either they updated silently, or I am truly running old design of something.

the new coil accel 140008, called super coil, and not "super stock" I thought was small. I was mistaken (this has me looking for another type of custom mount to make)
75:1 (very fast "turn around" - I wonder if that statement came from an ignition coil...or is it the sharpest turning 4x4 in history ..yes, a 1987 subaru claimed that for a long time)
9.6kohm
.5 ohm primary

this means fast big kick.

a big engine does not care, or stroke at 3 inch and beyond...my own has taught me lessons all the way to space weather with a 2.65 inch stroke (think motorcycle with 305 chevy v8 pistons)
this coil subject got damn serious. To add some comedy to that...a briggs and stratton 5hp is a 2.4 inch stroke, I don't recall slapping a super ctock accel on the lawn mower. they are so short they fire via magneto (like some F1). On the right track, I have yet to buy something to be a gimmick of aftermarket for this one. All chores stem from something so seriously wrong, and a gewks book of bad instruction..

still learning and forgetting.

the last thing..
i took the 8140 to 9 k dead rev, 7500 loaded.
claim is to 6500 by their own build. must be lucky..
the new coil goes farther. I don't think I need to know how far.

[Barry Donovan]

tailgate handle



I mentioned tailgate handle..the whole thing a very malleable aluminum or whatever it is. fantastic heatsink material. I never see that kind of material often, even building my own pc.. As my cars oem handle shattered like glass years ago, I got to thinking of yet another really weird thing this car does (and of course choose to forget - because it is that weird).

It goes faster with tailgate handle installed.

I don't hesitate to mention it.. the first realization was a friends subaru way back when. the car changed power removing the handle. Just another thing to intrigue my geeky self to take one of these on.

Some kind of heatsink, concentric engine, black hole physic..hard telling. It did teach me nobody knows everything there is to know about the automobile.

Anyway, to myself about this and not shrug it off.. a 707 has a static port for things that have no direction. just blobs of power robbing thief...and never ever to become a short circuit. It does take a perfection to go there, and no engineer wants it, no engineer ever gets first builds correct. I found it interesting a car had that about it. I tie it in to self balance symmetry. An alternator in a way plays with that..there is an engine right below it powering the alternator..enough babble.

todays ride was the "most" yet. I am trying not to like it.

I guess monday is the new coil..fender is not far off in a few weeks. looking forward to what seems to be more than a light at the end of a tunnel.

another note, carb related.. it took 30 miles to get into 90 something octane that was put in the tank yesterday. this car is at 35+ mpg with the monojet and my settings. Can you imagine waiting day to get the line flushed by running into the fresh fillup?
That is the new fuel, no less. I should be proud exceeding the 87..but the math has the guts way over ten to 1, I am just finding normal for the runted basturd.

fuel is always compression related, be it the factors of amount of air into the squashed chamber..some go by static numbers only, japanese did not (and still doesn't). The monojet, on this little engines biggest single port intake, heads squashed with felpros to a 60 foot pounds (factory is in the 30s most often). I know I did something right now. the sprites of correct and back to midget are no longer..it is a hard setting to be where it is at for now on.

coming back from garage, it is always a couple of hundred pounds, mig welder, drills and blah blah. heck even hammers could be five pounds by themselves. I choose to forget that is a big load. the boxer loves the weight in the back. Almost fills my custom headers with the extra work it has to do with an unusual sound. I ponder 500# in the back today is do able.

[TheSilverBuick]

You made your own tailgate handle out of aluminum? If so, that's pretty cool.

[Barry Donovan]

You made your own tailgate handle out of aluminum? If so, that's pretty cool.

thanks. it is crude looking, so soft edges had to be hammered later to flat. Easy sanding to smooth, then visegripped to make stamping of grip. works nice..very quiet. A normal click one gets when a door unlatches is nonexistent. Suppresses the sound of latch on top of the other weird things.


I was getting confident after making a pitchstop out of a breaker bar, that held a boxers version of torque..the dead weight is near 500 pounds with the awd tranny. Intricate operations...

I could make the little things all day. That really is a nice aluminum. would like a sheet to make a radio cover...round edges by hand, no cutting.

following up further..the thunder echo the tin can tailgates are known for when slamming shut...is now silent. The physic of the darndest things.

I did some more thinking as a realist..the alternator had no direct battery negative, and no aluminum finned rectifier cooler like gm gives their modern ones. That just might be the little monster conquered. Strangely so...

[Barry Donovan]

dual exhaust boxer?

As I have finally gotten someplace in a more robust deeper fire for the engine..and not sneaking back to an unidentifiable "runt mode" (the 8v setting in fuel control box seemed to be the sneaky devil - as of today that is my best guess).

I simply went to mcdonalds, hadn't been there in quite some time. Exhaust note is nearly a rumble off the building. pipe going straight out the back. damn. this little boxer is firing now. I can identify no other car running, one in front and back. Full muffler and cat...

I am curious as to do something silly with the equal header merge to be like an H pipe, and let it go dual out to the sides. a miniature hell on earth.

the cold start today is still like waiting for a diesel, waiting for the fuel pump chatter to tell me full pressure. It is not a comical routine of mistake...even a million dollar ferrari 250 gto had this routine.

big carb barrel related no doubt.

To claim classic today is not easy. I can claim it and damn well mean it..in every way one could remember.

cost included.
adding this whole compilation up...
the carb to now (getting everything right), the savings is easier to mention, rather than total cost. my labor, and machining (ingenuity) is included. how does one add that.

the ignition..
this goes back to simply accel plug wires, must be four years. some discount ebay and one of those gift certs. I paid nothing.
this went onto the 70 bucks off an accel 300+..simply came in a plain jane box with a part number, instructions, etc
the accel 140008 coil I just purchased has a "21 sold" on ebays counter, that is not luck, a seller went down to wholesale instead of retail. probably shipping as the incentive. anyway, for 40 delivered, summit gets 90..(I go there most often)

so 110 off whole ignition setup, the carb was 35 bucks. I would not be surprised to add this whole thing to less than $250.

it can be done. The savings big in one area, allowed me not to cringe at a 100 dollar billet oil filter (more than one function- acts as oil cooler and pressure relief of my choosing, and never need to buy another filter and be left with a mystery of what is in it).

the other thing I went too much for is a little tiny bronze sintered fuel filter, that was 15 (?)..not many pay more than 3 bucks for a filter. again reusable, and the physic of old school brass/bronze is welcome in my setup.

it all ends up the same cost..but I got a whole lot more.

alot assume a car is an abyss... a money pit.
what you paid is the abyss. Don't suck anyone else into the modern plague.

[Barry Donovan]

140008 installed



this was painless. supplied self tapping screws, I used two of them. Exactly just enough room, and the cooling fins have a whiff of fan air. I made the cover out of a coffee jug (hdpe). Cold start was noticably better. the bigger difference is the shorter length of timing for the same umph. Exactly as expected. I tried the heater to hot and cold to check for pigged amps in defining the two … like a switch. cool is cool, today hot is really hot. That is my easy way of determining the coil not being nice. This one is short and punchy. good stuff…and gets out of the system each and every fire. no coming back.

no surprises. did as expected. It does something with mounting screws for heat dissipation. If you get one of these, use at least two going to the chassis..and it is a heavy bugger. I never had one in my hands this heavy...for relation to tin can car that it is in. Tach hooked up the same. positive side is hiding behind fusible link box. Clever. exactly enough room.

[Barry Donovan]

finally content

Went for a long ride. flew up the highway. this car can do anything. A ride I took so many times, i forget how weak I thought all machines were. To be where I am at with a tin can welded to a mini paul bunyan scale quickly comes to memory as to why...the road is the same. the lonely ride of self sufficient.

15 years this year. There is a chill out there early august night. I am going to prepare for the worst I remember. Very cold is my guess. maines version shatters solid crank pulleys on self balanced boxers.

on a non-prophetic note, the car was bumbling right up to 3k rpm. I did not set timing. So, pulled over under a lamp, grabbed 10mm quick..everything is slicked up from teardowns and builds. no fighting like it is 25.5 years old, not what someone might expect. easy chore today.



the monojet brings me to my chevelle in the dark. Same chore. advance until the monojet is whistling, come back some. tighten the bolts, finding their spot in the dark by memory.

away it went. stopped for an ice cream, after a rumbling ride in the 4wd modes. seating that in the summer makes a nice winter. I forget this is a japanese tractor trailer. no viscous silence of a fake AWD. This sucker is all four wheels and howling whining grumbling and rumbling and ready to climb a vertical...until 70+ mph. That is when my owning it prevails. a silence. a perked up suspension, and all four wheels headed to 90 +mph. genius to be that tight..needing 80s mph to loosen and be quiet.

popped hood again heading back into civilization. there is something about that new coil. it is like it is harmless. you can reach out and touch that coil. being square, flush mounted to the strut tower with an exact amount of room, errorless. 15 years seeing a grungy oil pissing coil and now this. As if to be as excited as a nasa engineer on a mars rover landing.

a bit nerdy in other words.

the 140008 coil is very nice. I have never used one, and not only that, I have never seen one in use. the oil bathed coil has been in use for 60+ years. I am glad to see extra thought in the transformer coil category. Timing responds right away. an interesting thing.. shutting off lights rings an advanced idle sounds, the quick little sputters...then goes back to good idle adding an amp load to alternator. This car has has never done that. This means I am in control. I'll retard a little more, and call that good.




I kept the part of the blue jug that says HDPE, stop opinions of hillbilly hack or whatever it is that comes from the minds that spend 40k on a 5 main bearing subaru. Nothing works better. Also, the little hole you see in themiddle of coil at the top, is where old bolt went. use that as a draft for the little plateau. there is anut welded on the other side of the hole, not wide open, it has to be demanded to do anything.

more simple physics..the right rear tire has 3 plugs...the ride last night was noticable. this coil is much much bigger and gentle at the same time. no more half a dead car and left side rotting, while right side is waxed lookinglike day one. Also the goopy oil in the riocker when i first bought this? all from coils over the years. This silly setup had two 12v+ on the mag pickup side. Another reason I went with accel, or msd ignition stuff. start a real setup from ground up..pun intended.