attacking a monojet

[Barry Donovan]

resistor found



91 F outside and I am making a fuel heater. A large 5w resistor from my burnt mig welders little pcb turned out to be a nice hot one on 12v. too hot by itself, I reamed the end you seein photo just to get the square ceramic box resistor inside the old mig welders tip. all copper, resistor electricaly sealed on its own..very nice transfer of heat. this passes the electrical tape test, and will always be cooler because of frigid compression on the fuel line..even today…at 92F outside and an odd X-flare storm, that line is darn cool. This will get it where I want it. The length of it allows me to move up or down the fuel line, about a foot of straight line right outside the carb, to adjust. Sealed with high temp copper exhaust silicone by permatex. for the connection, soldered leads and heatshrunk. this passed that test as well. solders did not melt.

4.4 ohm. on a 9.6v power supply, the output was 5.6v. I do not know what twelve is going to do, and do not need to care. it may be more gentle, may not. will test soon enough.

kinda like winter outside. too cold and one stays in...too hot and it is the same. will wait for sealant to dry and plug this right in. it is a hot one. maybe wrap it again in soft aluminum, and use a clamp, no taping.

530. installed this, clamped with a thin clamp, it did get a bit warmer than the 9.6v power. Carb stays cold, but line did accept heat. This is very noticable in the winter. Driving for some time with the heater the carb seems to clean up something. A smell of road kill for a minute or two, like the last time, only it was the dead of winter -the same thing. Something does puddle up in the carbs. heavy settle, light moves. Agitating it like injectors nearly boiling fuel before it gets to a cylinder does work. cough dwindles to hardly bothersome. This fuel heater is hotter than that first version, and proves to need it. will wrap it once more to avoid getting burnt fingers.

830. got a little ride in..seems jumpier than ever. wrapped in a coffee can then electrical taped, a clamp keeping pressure for heat transfer, over the can keeping it more sealed to the line. it absorbs all of it, does not even get luke warm. Very very hot little heater I made there. I even doubted the wires I used...but its hanging in there. increased fuel pressure may be the cuplrit..I have it passive through a .030 restriction back to tank. This was jumpy after first line heater, and it went to very nice eventually. Don't know what I did. I'll let this go. most likely moving some crap around. pulling back in the idle was a tad stronger, I mean a bit more full. I did throw alot at this... just drive.

[Barry Donovan]

back to bitumen odor. Not fuel. I suppose it is flipping it out of the bowl.

I guess I am missing the whole carb to something goopy. did not really know it.. For about twenty minutes it took to warm up the line, and I found I had no desire to shift into higher rpms on some steep hills local. Gaining it back already.

clean by our own eyes is not the runtime. I guess I go for fuel additives.

the fuel heater is turning out to be awesome. even the fuel line gets almost too warm for fingers..not just the heater. I guess it does work, stay patient. just right. the bowl is cool at all times with venting and mystery...does not care about the heat, except moving nasty stuff out. My hitachi was a roaster at the fuel line, the whole carb was as hot as the damn engine. I only realized the value of this when I took it apart after 25 years. Spotless. I mean hospital grade sterile like spotless. Two tiny jets a hair could even clog..and it never failed. This heater and additives should get it.

an odd note: the choke and its heat does nothing on the rochester, it needs an external source to work its way in. the most solid moving thing beside electricity stabbed into the top of it is the heater for fuel. I now have both.

[Barry Donovan]

fuel vent revisited, and fuse

for giggles, I unplugged the "ig-coil, fuel, and EGI" fuse and car kept running. (giggle). I remeber that as being the big drama fuse. if that blows something very bad happened. you lost it all then. no pump, no coil, mag pickup, nothing. dead as a log. I must have knocked out 4.6 miles of wiring in that one move.
to use original ignition, plug fuse back in and swap wires in engine bay.

the bad:
upon realizing the bowl vent cannot be check valved for carb.. I forget why. it may be the fuel vent canister tank filled up and then the engine choked later. No matter what I did..what that gets is bad fuel. The bonus of keeping the fuel vent from bowl to can an open line, dampered only..it makes it so no odors of fuel at all, ever. I guess I'll have to live with the cough until a sterile gas tank gets put in. it still may win with the heat on fuel line, proper electrical dispersing on the invisible side utilizing the whole chassis.
one could laugh, but I seem to have made a generalization for this design. you can even find a hot fuel line as it enters the body near the end of rocker panel if it is like this one. Even a dodge omni used it. it may explain that gtr fire halfway up driver side.

anyway...safe, but a cough, and that is the crap we all have to choke on. can't hide it forever.

I found the poop is precise enough when clutch is engaging, throttle can indeed take a quick snap. it needs to be loaded to get out of the mystery poop. full power. Alot of years missing its backside, the dark side...now found, it may even be choking on the mystery white powder batteries get sometimes...it comes out of nowhere. the -12v monster.

[Barry Donovan]

future thoughts

the monojet is primitive and complex enough to slam some fuel through it with boost. the timing becomes a problem. Digital plays with interrupts, I love digitial on ignition.
fuel is actually easy.

I found accel 49375, and map sensors to go with it. it works in conjunction with accel 300+. pricy, but alot less than I thought. I may get into that some day. I have a final silly daydream of symmetrical boost on the symmetrical headers on the self balanced waterboxer. A gimmick to have more than one turbo, but seems fitting in this cars dual timing belt stereotyped history. 7500rpm all on its own, with maine fuel where 93 octane is not even an option. just imagine I guess. Finding the few people that drove these in the 80s for rally leagues had a 190hp peak, and 181 foot pounds. I truly imagine the sound of satan if there ever was one. 9k rpm rev limit. that was the 80s. what does digital and defining paths of fuel all on ones own do today? the rally guys respected subaru too much. they even kept tiny wheels on.factory header. holy crap. that puts a theory of my own build near 300hp. probably todays double fired 600.

I was checking over settings I had for rev limiter.. it is at 8500rpm, dip switch #1 is up. it is a good thing I did that. I don't think it gets past 7500. So..for accel 300+ it may need a thousand rpm beyond what you want. maybe length of harness is doing it. oh well. safe is safe.

I missed loring, but the newspaper got some info. good stuff. the hayabusa natural at 1635cc did over 230mph...running faster than nitro class.

my own relastic thoughts on my own far fetched quest... have me stumped at 103 in third with two more gears to go. it is playing out in reality as much as I simply thunk it in the first place.
todays stuff does something for anything. aftermarket parts.

[Barry Donovan]

more future stuff

I have two optical distributors for an ea82. yes I said optical. I pondered some things...

I found the accel 300+ does not like the retard catcher on the primary advance diaghram and will be attempting to run without. the mag pickup does really good. the ignition seems to be that fast. it does not want to slow down for fat barrel monojet. that is to say I could be in for a pleasant throttling surprise.

if so..the advance curve via vacuum, will only get a secondary on the traditonal mag pickup..
if this turns out to be true, I am going to attempt an optical disty on an accel 300...with no vacuum advancing.

no advice at all for this...but everything is slicked up and easy to swap around. been experimenting with alot of little things, and surprised at what does come around.

[Barry Donovan]

saved by fusible link

I really pushed this old sube around. I do know what low level ecm hertz does to buggies.

Today a quick snap of static off of fusible link, and car started right up. unhooking the vaccum hose on one of the advance chambers did nothing.
"feeling" throttle it occured to me to just let this buggy drive. Safe keeps in all places by oem, and possibly law for all I know.

the fusible link..old school, covered in fireproof cloth, is dispersing the amp changes.

to give a simple example of cars that have a hard tme with that stuff..gear shifter getting hot, or other nomoly. some cars (and this is an ok spot too) even heat up vent lines at the fuel source. Everywhere that accepts stray statics to go to a dispersal. The more steel in a chassis the better. This old sube has been ready for quite some time in the steel department to move on to modern things electrically.

so, in short. no more tuning, tinkering. just drive. A little rain speeds this process up.

I can tell already, battery terminals are going to get left alone. subarus oem version of fuel/fire was really weird without an ecm to control. they did do some extreme thinking with resistor boxes etc. I still use the box for dash lights when key comes on. All appears oem 1987. it may even trigger the tinker bell door sounds.

all that aside, fuel/fire is in seriously correct anyway.

[Barry Donovan]

e core coil

I have not messed with ay ignition at all..this sube demands it. it is has been a simple lesson, the complex stuff passed the test of runtime.
I vaguely remember talking of the newer e-core coils, which could have been out for twenty years for all I know.

going by accels book it says to use the "140009"..and I got to looking around and found a universal one for a third of the price, also by accel.



140008 matches my wire hookups. Also ecore (epoxy filled)
but with two screw posts...what I need.

this may get the tach wire in the place they wanted.

so..
that will finish the ignition.

it does state that any coil is compatible except for a few..and those few are built by accel themself. the super stock I am using now is on a list to function...but it is the same old errors. my +pos is someone elses -neg, and the tach instructions never matched it (deja vu to a past vehicle)

reading up on ecore, they even know some turn ratio number. this means the old classic coils are like analog garbled jumbled negative side..explains my use of the clean positive for a tach signal, simply on a resistor. the old coil has messed up dirty negative.
I hope the turn ratio for 140008 is the same as 140009..if not, a resistor may find it. if not, it is again garbage data for the tach signal.

I will not be paying alot for a coil. 140009 is too much, and has the wrong connector.

turns ratio..as every other number is just volts and joules.
the 08 is a 75 to 1 @ 42k volts
the 09 is a 70 to 1 @ 45k volts

I hope it works..else, I got tach setup to understand the box, and ignore the tach data wire they got going anyway.

some more stuff...the net is great.
old induction coils were bathed in oil or asphalt, and even have apiece of paper in there. not exactly precision.

the turn ratio for ecore must mean an exact 70 windings for one output of something, which is not mentioned. this means overall volts I presume. old coils could care less about that.

also, epoxy filled are precise in that they fill in winding voids. old coils have a fluid that can leave spots dry. In fact, all I knew was old coils. I learned to never use equal length wires on those coils..they can burn in the same spot. an epoxy coil is the whole thing in use every time, equal wiring is welcome...
and lastly, multispark is most likely useless on induction coils due to resistance gathering the broken fires and spitting them as one long one. Ecore coils are much much faster.

the old accel super stock does show a multispark, and is fast...but the garbage for the -neg side tells me it is not exactly a happy combo on electronic cdi.

I am glad the net does not erase entirely. that is where I learned this once, and forgot completely.

edit:
come to think of it.. I may have been getting lit, low voltage. To start feeling circuits unplugged by the fuse taken away...time to leave the car alone for awhile. I did leanr about the coils, in fact, I am sure it was right here at bangshift. the net does come and go..but my memory is better than that. I bet I got hit right in the noggin along the install path.

another thought in the everlasting battle of fule air and ignition..the kick is the current coil. too old. even the spec clutch set it off. which leads me to my love of diodes. the epoxy coils do in fact do something for direction. it won't care if it has a stage clutch with coppers and kevalrs and other very static grabbing mystery.

battle goes on. quite drivable, but my real goal is very very feisty down low. the 3 man boxer is famous for that. I keep attacking incorrectly, but do have most of the ingredients. I lost the feisty a few years ago. the coil explanation is truly fitting the bill now. Video does not do much, but to rewatch and see the front end coming down at a third gear 7000 rpm ..90 something miles an hour. sube AWD of the 80s just don't do that. they are quite bricked up front. my own little findings, not many would understand. It is to say I gained a realm with the same sounds..only going a bit farther. Alot farther to some.

to gain that down low again would have 4lo making a cup of coffee disappear.(I have done that with this very car). I look forward to getting this done patiently.

[Barry Donovan]

hunting down a coil

rummaging ebay etc..

found a used rusty bwd for a gm truck, saw the epoxy is not even encapsulated..and for the same price as accel 140008, and that is brand new.

the sick story with this car is over $4k and me doing a couple of hundred hours in labor. "breaking even" would be 10k and I'd still cringe. never gonna get it.

anyone with an ecore coil for 5 bucks. it seems as my stories go, I'd be giving one away like most of my stuff.

this runt has been runted so long its like asking a coma patient to get up and run the stock market...even with all ingredients in the right place, you'd end up with..well, what america is today.

discouraged. At least its raining.

an interesting conclusion...
this thing has to be built to like a formula racing standard just to be normal. stroke too short, compression too high. There is real reasons for the ever common 14mpg slob of a v8.

imagine velocity so fast the fuel needs a 300F (+/- a few) heater right on the line to get it to 80F. Slowing down a seeping return chokes on the mystery of imperfect gas stations.

I am counting on american aftermarket. if that can't get it, nothing will. Thankfully some internet users tell a brand off to help guide the lost.

if a monster emerges... I win.

explaining a short stroke with a math like a gm..big bore small stroke, off square. when racing, the inside corner gets it around faster. ponder 2.65 inches for each and every revolution. 3k rpm is not like a normal 3k rpm anymore..a physics lesson is taught, especially attacking igntion and air and fuel.

the boxer does do some amazing things, even with me at the helm. I found whining noises like a supercharger, emerge from parts that have no real right to be doing that...this tells me the biggest concentric is floating like a dream: the crankshaft. Ignition right now is at 3k to be perfect. Exactly where I never had many problems to begin with.. I am hoping to gain the concentric of the optical disty version of this same engine. That one sounds like a supercharger just to start and idle. ignition could not possibly get anymore precise. the loser there was ecm or gadgets too slow, and no means to change it. At least it ran good for city slicking. The one I am building now does have some significance..to bury into a 7500 scream, faultless. I will be getting the below 3k rpm tackled as much as possible as a result. Some claim higher rpms is a problem. I have yet to run into that one, even on old ignitions.

I hope this goes better than my own self demanding reward, and I can put it into english. As for Otto and linear to rotation problems, this as genius as no other engine can become.

[Barry Donovan]

I found a big one.


searching around, I want cheap, and possibly outrageous.

I hope this satisfies both. big as a car battery? possibly.
realistically it is coming from a machine shop in the southeast. I assume frustrations like maine when it comes to electric. This is not as large as it may be appearing.
the #42 is in it, common to 42k volt? just right. this same place has one with a #30 in the part number...that equates to the same pansiness I run now. So, I go fro one in photo.

A thing to remember on up to 1987 carb feedback type designs, is the micron level of certain items. the thread I have posted here with "ignition coils" explains the tach is a brut. I resist it a little bit, to ensure coil gets the big bad cdi signal. This is actually looking like common sense given my history with the engine compression etc.

[Barry Donovan]

big idea

not many know why being as american, and defensive as I am to be driving 90hp with 25.5 pounds per horsepower...on the scale of a tractor trailer loaded.

I kept attacking it until third gear goes by the mainstream..and wonder what more air fuel would do with two more gears to go.

My dad would understand. I drove with him in the 290hp cracker boxes with swollen trailers many years ago. It was 40 tons back then too ya know. Every leaf spring a shreak or clang. Every hill a drop of gears rapidly, until the splitter, and then a few more. My side of the truck had no air ride seat. The one stack attack was not far off either.

today its 48 psi and a 550 cat, genuine. Not many times to leave an engine alone with factory repairs. It is his first, after 30 years. the odds of existence in that many miles is astounding..to move what he has moved with the junk that used to exist.

he just got out of the hospital. 6 holes stabbed into his lung repairing a collapse. He admitted to be in the truck of his dreams... and its only been a year since being there. A bit medicated can say some things. my dad going silent on the phone is silence. the biggest words of all. He is talking of retiring at 61..one year shy of the age.

I have a goal, it has to be sooner than later, to make this ten geared ricer fly down a track. we both have the same thing to say:

you don't know power.

[Barry Donovan]

best ride yet

simple errand to run. took the old sube.

the shifter is up to meet my giant huge american five foot 9'er self, and sat back in the seat. everything is proportionate..almost. if the steering wheel could move back two or 3 feet that would be great.


I was going easy because of the expected throttle cough, determined now to be a coil that is not all there. I had to push boundaries playing in the modern sidewyas mounted traffic...The little monkey took off with a throttle snap like a motorcycle. nice.
I guess i need to move through the air to ge a finale with electrical. the normal coil should get this into almost comical.

I am one to make a video or two to share.

[Barry Donovan]

fuel bowl vent

I put a damper on this, a check valve, removed check valve, kept damper..had different 3 lines hooked up to make the distance to vent can. the chore first go around was indeed a cold february. gave that look over today and changed some things. Remembering I threaded a nipple into the rochester bowl vent exit, when I first got carb.. Some may remember how troublesome the pressed in cheap fitting is there..the threading in was priceless. old subaru parts to the rescue.

finding 1/2 american fuel line, about 3 feet..I took out all dampers and ran it over to vent can from bowl vent. the carb gets pretty darn big with this open. the silly check valve games I was playing is and was unnecessary with the full loop going back from can to carb after car is started. Not directly at the carb vacuum but gently mixing with CAI duct air and into combustion.
for every action there is an equal and opposite reaction. Keeping this simple thought sets up the vent can simply...and helps car start. this is the firts summer with this.. I almost forgot to check things out as they go along.

car off, vent can closed. operates by a vacuum valve. It does allow gas tank and carb to continue to feed it after shut down. too much? whatever genius engineered it allows the hose out the bottom to do something. must be pressure related, or seep slow something. Always pleasant. even the nasty old gasket that permeated for hundreds of feet around on the carb is contained...which seems to be all dissipated now, I took line off and the carb is simply acting like a good one. just gas vapor. the HDPE custom home made gasket did wonders.

this is good to go anywhere. there is other things to mention, but not carb related. this is also first summer for the brass copper radiator..I knew this one was lost without it. even the old rochester knows that radiator is relief with its copper brass inside the bowl.

[Barry Donovan]

resistor riddle

I was again rummaging through a parts bin, sat for about 6 years.
found this resistor, a big one. 2.5 inches long, .5 inches square..that was not counting the solid leads. 1k ohm, 25 watt, and 5% error. for some stupid reason I paid 15 bucks for it (I said it was stupid, today they are 93 cents)

I remember getting guided to this for some problem I was having..never used it.

10k ohm at 2.5 watt = 1k ohm @ 25 w
the 10k ohm is the one autometer uses to smooth a tach. I wanted the same approach...only bigger. much much bigger.
bangshift approval not needed.

not sure if that math for comparing resistors was remembered correctly, but anyway, took apart tach lead one more time and put in this monster resistor, all soldered in connections.

this is the surprising part...it got warm. 800v resistor got warm resisting for a tach lead from the coil. I guess I was robbing it after all...and of course tach is super smooth.

this concludes the tach mystery. I won't even bother with accels lead for tach when new coil arrives...I got it squashed to nothing for resource suckage now, and the box, lo and behold, must be robbing power as well, to send a square wave lead to the tach unknown to mankind.

one way or the other, something is going to take for tach. I choose my way. the sube is backwards anyway. lucky to have any tach at all.

so, accels tach hookup not used, and my version is in use, using very little resources.

this should conclude the ten post a day "rampage"..awaiting coil.

one more thing..the brandless coil, it may be a pro comp, learned to avoid them..but that was for v8s. the four banger is 50% of the work at the same rpm.
finding specs was another good thing to do. the brandless monster is 9.6k ohm with large windings in epoxy.

the super stock is beyond ten and probaly half full with a stuck chunk of winding to the side of the can.. this means path of least resistance is going to be the other gain, not just the "correct" coil for cdi in the first place.

I also have a full finned mount used for pc hard drives for the coming cdi coil..will share of course.

edit:



here is compare of normal sized rsistor to what I found in my parts bin, mathing out to 10k ohm at 2.5w. this added power noticably (as the coil in photo is not quite right with all of itself).

worth a swap. the tach is very smooth. the hardest part of firing an engine, is revealed in the max torque number and rpm written. this is one is 140ft at 2800...the coil starts kicking at 2300 to 2800. Easy way to determine "not loadable". The coil in photo is bad, awaiting order for new one. Swapping to a giant resistor for the same result as the small one mathematically helped cold start tremendously. The kicking stopped too. A real coil will be fun..looking forward to that.

[Barry Donovan]

major problem found

the wire thread got me thinking of the other winter chores that end up being declared half assed in the digs of summer.

the radiator fan.

its got a switch right in the radiator, then goes back to a spliced t-off looping conglomeration of idiot...by factory.

I put a molex connector you use for pc hard drives as a fast fix a couple of years ago. 4 wires just for two because of the loop of the switch. to take radiator out with no plug to unplug, but splices..very aggrevating.
today, took that apart found it was sea green and powder and hanging in an opening that gets the speed of wind the car is travelling..perfectly wrong. all weather went right into the plug. perfectly freaking wrong.

so, digging through the efi harness found another high grade modular waterproof plug. I narrowed it down to four wires, gave the fan the thicker gauage, the switch the smaller. swapped things around for the bleeding pair that fights with the splice of factory..(which is also respected and fixed to waterproof)

very lucky to find in the parts pile. it is even a subaru plug. They did not build that setup this good, and it was always a problem.The first 20 years, and my findings of how they hooked it up. wow. lucky the car did not burn wires.

anyway, result is snappier throttle, and the fuel heater burnt out. I don't know where fan plug was stealing amps from or how, but the radiator spaghetti is nice neat, waterproof, with a harness i first spotted in early 80s formula 1 racing video. Subaru chose them for a few years. simply modular waterproof, I assume avation grade. they are that good. I don't even know where to find them.

that one frustration went on for 6 years. call me slow, but if to explain what that area is for workability...not friendly at all. Blwoing the radiator, hg, engine, all at different times, the timing belt chores..radiator has to come out. Now it can easier than ever. just unplug the stuff.

edit:
fuel heater removed. first run for fat vent line, the size recommended for vent can end, as well as float bowl. I am glad they are the same, being foriegn to domestic.

the wires at the radiator fan are like a static port on a 707. the switch that gets fan is not all the way off ever. That is actually very smart, learned on an 80s dodge omni, and many many others. especially little cars. Just don't let air at those connections...tricky devil.

for the first time since the carb installed, the vent line is cool, meaning it is working, the fuel line warmed up on its own..and the accel pump worked without car on. I can actually attempt to flood it. Something of a static monster let go of the little monojet.

the vent line fixed that part..but there is a physic. not easy for a simpleton like me to explain. it is like guiding amps around, but never a short circuit. I wanted to write about this with knowledge, and can't. Shamefully, it is this cars #1 mystery. backwards and forwards..yet all doing the same. Attacking the way I have through every subject of an engines runtime. the monojet is a no bullshitter, that turned out to be a good place to start. ignition with no controller and dual 12v feeding the mag pickup was the other major kill. directly affects fuel air.

as things are going, another first in 6 years since owning, and that is a desire to see what the times are for drag strip and dyno.
it is really at 103 in third gear, and an ignition that won't just shut off at 3750 rpm in fifth. I am so very curious...

[Barry Donovan]

even the fuse box

swapped out 18 fuses. all 15amp. All brand new and the same. Came all the way from china direct. I do that for heatshrink tubing as well.

noticable.

the coil is still last thing not changed yet. Exhaust sounds like a leak, and checking it does not justify the noise. Amps moved more toward ignition.

Just go with it I guess.

revving engine, I wanted to find the fuse that gets warmed, ignition should be using the most. As much as I took it away from headlamp circuit that same fuse is the one getting warmed. Turn on headlamps, no difference. must be labeling problem at the box. ignition is indeed on its own, full all the way to limiter. I have never blowna fuse for headlamps, would have to dig while they are on. plucking one fuse at a time.

doesn't really matter.

for 25.6 years as one run...the box and routes can't be all that bad. never a serious problem. getting ignition out on its own path is only a reassuring thing to do. headlamps are vivid bright as well. nothing is stealing them even with everything the car has turned on.

a precise sharp crisp fast ig coil should get this just right. optimistic thinking anyway. the old coils never did this. Someone warned me in more than one way of the super stock with no amplifier. they kinda slobber a timing. snappy tinny noises was one symptom. patience. whats a week to wait in 25 years anyway.

speaking of coil. the 140008, by accel, is compatible with the 300+ also by accel. This is the coil with the 9.6k ohm, I mixed up some numbers with the cheaper coil. the accel is also 42k volt. Bing time is distance, I best go for the small accel coil for speed of it..and of course, it goes with the cdi box. it is ten bucks more. oh well.



separate switch from ignition key
another last thought, I always assumed it to be for v8s, long stroke, big duration and crazy ignitions. the wire getting warmed, may be the one at the key switch acting as "12v ign". I found a cheap switch on ebay. pull once acc on, pull again for spring loaded starter. obviously a bigger amp handler than an old key switch. I may have to think of these things. the new coil will let me know. it is obvious that one wire feeds a block, then from the block to fuse box...where anything that uses 12v ign is protected on its own...the switch never will be. Just like alot of oem. It can only take so much amps. can't have two ign for one place...
Come to think of it, even newer 4cyl rally cars can still use the key, 500hp... but I am running a 1987 that must be brushing on laminated copper sheet. maybe its just getting old. Impressive long run, but to step up to demands, gotta think ahead.